20 Most Recent GE GSS20IEPWW / GSS20IEPCC Side by Side Refrigerator - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Check and make sure you are getting water to the icemaker, If sothe lines may be frozen. You can thaw them with a hair drywe.

If your not getting any power to the unit and the breaker is not not tripped, you will need to replace the control board located on the rear of the refrigerator. Here is a link to the part you need. http://www.appliancepartspros.com/Appliance-Parts/ge-main-control-board-assembly-item-number-ap4436216.aspx

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Hi!
A relay starts the compressor with a higher voltage and then quickly kicks out
It does a lot of clicking (trying to start over and over again)
If thats what is happening with yours
Its best for a tech to replace The relay but you can do it
Take your model number to your Local Appliance parts store they will have a diagram
showing you how to install the relay. Its called a hard start relay
I use part no ERP410 POWER START RELAY, CAPACITOR AND OVERLOAD all in one. (110 v)

If you still have trouble Go Here:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

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Leo Ponder
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Most of these units will have a filter in the refrigerator side in the upper right corner. If someone removed it and maybe couldn't afford a new one at the time they could have used the bypass plug. It will just be a flat 3-4" white handle that you must twist out counterclockwise. Hope this helps.

Most ice makers have a control arm that raises and lowers to check for a full condition. It usually raises during the dump cycle and lowers during the fill cyle. If it is unable to lower (because the bin in full) it should shut off the fill cycle. If that function is not working, then if you move that control arm to the fully raised position, it should shut of the fill cycle, until you manually lower it again.

If there is no frost on the rear wall , inside the freezer , then the main control board is bad . This board , is located behind the refrig , behind an 8 " X 10 " panel . The part number is WR55X10656 . This board , probably has a burnt compressor module , keeping the compressor from running . The board is easily replaceable .

I have the GSS manual and several videos that show how to precisely check the ice box HERE

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Empty the freezer. Unplug the fridge. Take all the shelves and drawer out of the freezer. Remove the lightbulb cover and bulb. Take out the screws that hold the panel on the back of the freezer wall. Slide the panel up slightly to clear the thermistor housing (a small 'bump' on the bottom left side) and remove the panel pulling from the left side forward. The defrost heater is on the bottom of the coils held on by two screws, and the thermostat is clipped on to the top coil and has pink and blue (sometimes orange) wires going to it. Don't worry if the wire colors on the new one are not the same. Unclip the thermostat and cut the wires, leaving yourself enough wire to strip them back and connect them with the new ones. Use crimp connectors or wire nuts (for wet applications) and then clip the thermostat back on. To replace the defrost heater, remove the two screws and disconnect the wires. The new defroster might have both wires on one side, rather than one on each side. That's okay, just move the wire on the left over to the right along side the other wire, and connect. Put everything back together, and plug back in.

your mother board is acting up you will need to find the model number its in the ref. towards the top on the right or left.I saw this once before and it blew my mind to until I talked to tech line.

there is a anti-freeze kit available. u will have to completely dry the motor first. (if you hold it long enough the heat will build up in the motor and thaw itself)but will freeze right back.

Hi,

Check out these tips...they can help you figure out what is going wrong with your refrigerator and why it is not cooling

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heatman101

';';

Is there food near any of the vents? if ther is then you have to make sure that all of the food near the vents is clear and there is not a solid block of ice behind the racks in the freezer neer the coils.

. The next time the noise starts , open the freezer door and see if that is where the noises coming from . If yes , replace the circulation fan located in front of the evaporator assembly . If the noise is coming from the bottom of the unit and you can hear it clearly with the doors closed , more than likely it would be the condenser fan located next to and sometimes even mounted on the condenser assembly . If the unit has a static condenser , which will be indicated by the metal lines running up and down and all around the back of the unit itself , there is no condenser fan . The squealing noise you hear is a bad bearing in one of the motors . As the motor shaft spins , it actually wobbles within the bad bearing as too much clearance between the two exists .

I have your solution HERE If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

not that long.did you turn the controls on in the fridge side?also did you follow the instructions that came with the new board.if there's a wire in the second pin on j1 you have to cut it,then behind the inside freezer wall there's a sensor that you have to look at,if it has a black ring around it it has to be changed and should of been when you changed out the board or you could have cooked the new board too.the part number is WR55X10025 and it's 7 dollars on the sears site.it's on top of the evap coil and it's white and looks like a bullet.what were you using the hair dryer for?g.e. has a recall on the boards you could of called them and they will come and change it out for you but i don't think they will now because you touched it,maybe just don't tell them that you touched it and put the old board back in.also go here and check out this site
http://fixitnow.com/wp/2009/11/30/ge-refrigerator-motherboard-recall-list/

Chances are if they are getting cool -

1) the evaporator fan in the freezer is not running
2) Defrost heater has failed
3) Defrost sensor has failed
4) Defrost timer/refrigerator control has failed.

Check for ice build-up on the back wall of the freezer. If there is ice, unplug or turn the unit off for 6-8 hours with the doors open (put any food in a cooler with ice to maintain). Note water may come out of the refrigerator.
Plug the unit back in or turn it back on, close the doors, and check temperature after a couple of hours of operation. If all OK, you will need to have the above tested, or, if you know how to use a multimeter and can read a schematic/wiring diagram, I can instruct you on how to check the above.

first thing is to check the defrost heater if it looks black it is bad the part number for the heater is wr51x10053
i have replaced a ton of these

no it is not possible because while assembling the fridge all the parts are assembled saperately

With GE this is a common problem. There is a control board located on the back of the machine that operates everything to do wih the machine. If you pull the machine out from the wall, you'll notice an aluminum plate with 1/4 inch screws around it (not the one that runs across the bottom of the machine.) Its usually on the right side if you are standing behind the refrigerator. If you remove the plate, you'll be able to see the board and more than likely, but not always, see a burnt spot in the board. You part number for this is WR55X10942 and will run you about 161.28 from apdepot but you may be able to find it cheaper else where. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3