Honeywell HE220A1019 Whole House Humidifier Humidifier - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

With the Honeywell he220, you will use alot of water, trying to turn down the water will only reduce your amount of humidity in the home, you may be able to adjust it a little but you need to take the cover off and reduce the water flow a little at a time watching the water as it flows across the pad, you just have to make sure the humidifier pad is getting plenty of water across it, to little and you lose your humidification, hope that was helpful to ya, thanks for your question,
mr.grzz

thanks for you question,
the residue that you are seeing is Calcium, it is a natural mineral that is found in all water, the easiest way to remove the calcium build up from your humidifier screen is to use (CLR) it is a calcium, lime and rust remover, a simple diluted mixture with water, then soak the screen for about half an hour, rinse the screen then reinstall, a soft water system would help with the calcium build up as well, but tend to be alittle on the spendy side, your could try inline mineral filters that need replacing yearly, I really hope that helped ansewr your question, let us know with some feed back, thanks again for your question, mr.grzz

I don't know much about humidifiers other than they are rarely needed and most folk around here would rather there was a lot less humidity., especially considering how easily black mould grows and how injurious to health that can be. Those few people living with an unsuitable heating system in a badly designed house usually find it is adequate to have a water feature in the lounge or to balance a bowl of water on a radiator. Certainly when the windows sweat to such a degree, especially if you have double glazing, the humidity must be well above the comfort range, above 70%, and probably well into the moist range of 80% - 90%. Higher than that and any exertion becomes decidedly unconfortable... I am guessing the humidistat is either faulty or cannot work because the humidity is already too high. I suggest you need to check the humidity in your home with an accurate independent humidity meter before you go further...

I would think it would need to switch on & off to control the water flow through for correct humidity..

i was just reading up on this and comments from others say that there is a solenoid that is stuck open because of mineral (lime or calcium) build-up

Try removing the cover, and manually cycling on the controler switch? Does the solenoid click on, next to the humidifier (the unit with the water line running through it, with wires coming out of it)? If it does click on, is water running down the water pad? It doesn't necessarily drain water when it's working correctly. All of the water SHOULD be getting evaporated into the air return duct.If it's clicking on, but no water is running out, you should check the water supply saddle valve and make sure it wasn't turned off during servicing.If it's not clicking on, you should test that you are getting voltage (12v-18v DC) to the solenoid. If you're not, check all wiring connections and make sure they're tight. If you still don't get power, you have either a problem with your control unit/humidistat, your DC power supply, or the control board on your furnace. You may need to call a HVAC technician at that point, depending on your comfort level/skill level in that regard.When you say the solenoid "stays hot" do you mean it's physically hot to the touch? Hotter than the water lines running into it?If the solenoid is getting hot, it probably has a bad coil, and if you continue to operate it, you will probably burn up your DC power supply.If you're getting voltage, you have water pressure, and the solenoid is still not opening, replace the solenoid.

HI I have similar isssue with HE220 but in my case the water run through all ththe time, even when unplugged from the power outlet.Would that be solenoid issue?the unit run fine for last season so the wiring is fine.Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

I has the same problem with my HE360 unit. The unit was in fact miswired. The head unit red wires were connected directly to the blue solenoid wires, and activated the solenoid without any signal from the humidistat. As soon as the unit is plugged inn, the water starts running without any signal to the unit. If your unit is miswired, the soleniod blue wires need to be cut and connected to the red crimp connectors.

Hello, the first thing to check is to make sure there is no sediment at the inlet strainer of the solenoid valve preventing the water flowing, if there is remove it, clean it, reinstall. If the solenoid is clean and the same problem persists replace the solenoid, most likely it is weak.

http://customer.honeywell.com/Business/Cultures/en-US/Products/Applications+and+Downloads/

Not sure how much this will help you, but here is a link in pdf format to the Installation Manual, if you don't have one http://www.honeywellcentral.com/ssi/pdf/honeywell-commercial/HE220-Installation.pdf

If all else fails here is a number for Honeywell. Ask for Technical Support. (877) 841-2840

Hello, this could be tw o different things. when you install a humidifier you need a means of turning it on and off with the furnaces blower motor, this is done by either a sail switch, current sensing relay, or by the transformer being hooked up directly to the furnaces control board. if you do not have one of those three than the humidifier will run continuously untill u manually turn it off at the humidistat. If you have one of those three installed already than the solenoid valve is stuck and must be replaced.

Make sure the new pad you installed is in the right position. The pad is marked with a black dot about the size of a quarter. This end should be up for proper water flow through the pad.I fwater flow is being restricted at the pad the vibrating nosie that you are hearing is the dry portion of the pad vibrating agaist the platic housing of the humidifier. This noise stops once the pad has absorb enough water in this area of the pad.

I believe that Carrier has a 24 volt setup for humidifier but am not sure. On the circuit board I think there is a terminal (HUM). If there is this terminal connect 1 wire to this and 1 wire to C terminal.
If not,pretty sure there is a 120 volt EAC terminal. This would only kick on when blower is on. If you have to use this you would have to install transformer to the EAC connections

If you have very old furnace, does it have a blower with a belt. If it does it should only have 2 wires going to blower. If it has 2 you should be able to use the transformer you have plugged into wall and splice into 2 wires going to blower. If you have more than 2 wires to blower, you will need to find out which one is used for heat plus use the white one. If you have a voltage sensor you should be able to find it easily.

Hello, In order for the humidifier to turn on and off you need either a sail switch or current sensing relay. A sail switch senses air flow and will turn on the humidifier when the blower motor kicks on and a current sensing relay senses current through the blower motors common wire. If you have either of theses hooked up already and the solenoid valve remains open then the solenoid valve must be replaced.

Don't know why so much water. May be able to adjust by turning down valve tap. Turn unit on and you should be able to hear water pressure decrease. Make sure damper in 6" pipe is open so humidified air will get through system. When very cold humidities are lower. Also must hum. mfgs. suggest connecting with hot water instead of cold (vaporizes faster) don't know which you have

replace solenoid....there may have been calcium or rust that clogged up in the valve which is causing the solenoid to stay open

Yes there should be a hose or pipe connected to the bottum of the humidifier so it can drain properly.