Top 20 Delta dj-20 8 w/52-671 precision jointer""" Questions & Answers

Go to the Dewalt service website at http://servicenet.dewalt.com and do a search for your model number in the Find Parts box. Use 37-190 (with the dash) or you'll get a long list of parts. The Type 1 and Type 2 don't list a manual but the Type 3 does. The differences in Types are usually very minor, look that one up and see if it fits your needs for your jointer.

You are looking at a major disassembly to get at the cutter head bearings, everything is built around the cutter head. The motor drives the cutter head on one end of it and the cutter head drives the rollers at the other end. Most of the components have to be removed to get the cutter head and it's bearings out. You can go to www.ereplacementparts.com and do a search on your model number for a good breakdown of your planner and see what you need to remove to get at the cutter head and it's bearings.

You might have the outfeed table lower than the blade. If the outfeed table is adjustable, then you can check it easily with a steel ruler. With the Power OFF, lay the steel rule on edge on the outfeed table so that it hangs over the blade. Rotate the blade by hand in the forward direction. The blade just just barely touch the ruler. If the ruler is bumped up and pulled forward by the blade, then this is the problem. If your outfeed table is not adjustable, then you need to adjust your blades. If this is not the problem it may be that your wood is not uniformly dried.

The most important part of the jointer is that the cutting edge is perfectly level with the out feed table, then, bring up the infeed table, with straight edge on rear, make all adj necessary to get these things lined up flat, not level, but flat, straight, even. Then it will cut perfectly flat and even. no snipes,. Hope this helps.

It might seem obvious, and no doubt you've long since resolved this question, but was it possibly a breaker that threw due to an amperage overload on the circuit the jointer was plugged into?
The online manual (available here) takes pains to make sure the receptacle the jointer's plugged into is well grounded and any extension cords are of sufficient guage.
Assuming all that's in order, I guess you could bypass the switch to check to see if it is in fact at fault. Replacement parts are available from the same link above.

I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread.
If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take just a moment to rate this post....thanks!

Check to see if your blades are set to the same depth as per your manual. Also you should only be taking off 1/32" at a time for a true cut.

I'm going to guess that this unit runs on 240V. I would first suspect that you lost one leg and only have 110V going to this unit.

Check that and update this with the model if not the case.

Thanks,
Dan

In case you haven't found it, try this...
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=3669
Tim

I assume you want to know how to get it adjusted just right, not how to move the outfeed table up and down. The easiest way I have found is to lay a metal ruler on edge on the outfeed table so that it extends over the blades. Slowly turn the blade forward by hand while you lower the outfeed table. Do that until the blade snags the metal ruler. Then raise the table until the blades just stop snagging the straight-edge.

Check on www.owwm.com. You will probably find your machine on their and resources to help you in your quest. It's a great site for old tool hounds.

go to Dewaltservicenet.com and type in your model number and on the next page you will that another model supersedes yours, click on the instruction manual for this one it is 25 pages long, the manual for your tool is not available online.

New machines, particularly jointers, often require some tweaking to be ready for production. The quality control these days leaves something to be desired.
There are some basic steps you can take to see if it's ready, like raising the infeed table to zero (even with the outfeed table) and checking to see that the two are in fact straight inline with each other. This is a good indication that they will be parrallel when adjusted out of line to joint boards.
But it's worth the time it takes to go through all the stages needed to tune it up. And even with a well tuned jointer, there is a certain art to straightening long boards. The machine doesn't do it all by itself.
Perhaps you already know this.
You don't mention the model number, nor your experience or the length of boards you're attempting to straighten, so I'm not sure where to point you, but I would highly recommend you practice with some soft clear wood that is relatively straight until you get the hang of it.
If the machine is simply out of adjustment, (highly likely, as it just came from the factory), I would recommend you read a jointer tune-up tutorial and follow the steps to check the setup of your machine and correct any maladjustments that may be found while your warranty is still fresh. Some modern castings are not rested properly and warped tables have been the nightmare of more than one woodworker I know. Better to discover this while something can be done about it..
A good place to start would be Fine Woodworking, available at your local library or online @ http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesPDF.aspx?id=2643
Try to be patient. I've spent many days changing knives and shimming and adjusting my old powermatic over the years, but it's a pleasure to have straight boards when you go to glue up.
Best of luck to you!

no info generic answer sears.com -----chraftsman.com ------online search using make and model ----stores that carry sears power tools

http://www.goldblatttool.com/Manuals/Concrete%20Mixer%2007855.pdf

kakima is 100% correct, but to add to it so you understand how he got that 27 cubic feet... you can picture a cube. A cubic yard is 3 foot tall x 3 foot wide x 3 foot high. (A cubic foot is 1 foot tall x 1 foot wide x 1 foot high). So 3 x 3 x 3 = 27.

I do not have a clue as to what you have but a simple switch has two connections and you can connect either way.

Two part epoxi injected or poured into the crack.

with high temp refractory mortar for fireplaces

I guess you will have to call your local handyman. And since it is getting bigger repair it ASAP. Maybe you should check the entire house and find out if there is any other damp spots. Call a certified house inspector and get him to work.