20 Most Recent Whirlpool WED6200S Electric Dryer Questions & Answers

whirlpool cabrio infamous for blowing out control boards check with a multimeter to see if you have power going into the machine and trace the lead power wire to the control board most likely it is your main control board hope this helps

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it) Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or overheating. The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance. Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220, OR you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposed to be if the motor does not run , the heater should not heat in order not to create fire but you said that even the motor is not running, the heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater. Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats. For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement. In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet. Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity. A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats. Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.htmlGOD IS So GOOD !!!! AND THAT'S WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE

when the dryer is run is it warm inside when you open it ? If it is try cleaning the vent tube and make sure its not clogged with lint if the dryer is cold inside you probably need a new heating element.

should also tryif you have a old house with fuses sometimes you only blow a partial fuse your dryer might run but not turn the element on for the heat

Open exhaust thermistor at room temp should read 11.5-13.5 k-ohms

either the motor is burnt out or the drum belt snaped due to over loading

Probably a burned out heating coil, or bad operating or safety thermostat.

Hi denny_jane45 ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT. Sounds like your problem may be a broken belt, or the belt may have slipped off of the motor pulley, or idler arm pulley,faulty capacitor, or a faulty motor. Note: This method works for most front loading machines. If you have to check/replace/repair your drum motor,drum seals,belt,rollers, etc.If replacing drum seals be sure to use a good grade of weather proof cement to hold the seal/s in place, some seals are furnished with the cement to glue it in place.Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch,start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer if necessary. Be real careful not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch or other electrical connections. Remove the lint filter and the two screws that hold the filter housing to the top of the dryer lid.Then remove the top of the dryer by inserting a screwdriver between the top and frame on each side of the dryer to pop the lid up from the retaining clips.Note: Some of the tops tilt backwards on a type of hinge and do not have to be removed completly. Remove the front of the machine by disconnecting the door switch and removing the two screws located on either side of the dryer frame.Move the door and front of machine forward to remove.This will expose the belt,idler bracket and drum, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm bracket with pulley, and motor with pulley. Pay attention to the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt and drum.Sometimes the belt will slip off of the idler arm or motor causing the drum not to turn. Note:The way the belt goes back on is, as the belt comes off the drum has to be doubled (pushed together to form a loop) and goes under the idler pulley then to the motor pulley.Here is a link to see a picture of your belt routing in case the belt is broken when you open your dryer:http://www.expertappliance.com/dryerbeltconfiguration.html While you have the drum out, I would recommend that you remove and lubricate the drum rollers.And also clean the shafts of the rollers as they will collect hair,dust,etc and cause problems and then lubricate the shafts and rollers with a good grade of machine oil like 3 in One oil or a vasoline type of lubricant. This will save you a problem later with the rollers getting dry and making a squeeling noise, also check your drum rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them this will cause a thumping type noise. You will need to replace the drum rollers if they have flat spots on them. Please take time to rate me

hay Aric , it sounds like you have bad element or fuse . test as follows unplug wires to the element and turn unit on if you get 120v to the element replace it if no power then it got to be a fuse or the door switch test them for continuity , good luck APPLIANCES R EN

you'll have to take it apart and check the rollers and pulley and also check around the front of the drum,there's a felt seal there that i've found the drum cuts through it or something could be stuck in the felt,pull out the lint filter and remove the two screws in front of it,then get a screw driver and stick it in between the top cover and the front panel around two inches from the corner and pop up the top cover,check the drum to see if it looks like something is rubbing against it.if so unplug the dryer,disconnect the wire connector on the right side,and remove the two 5/16 inch screws that hold the front panel on.watch videohttp://www.youtube.com/user/RepairClinic?v=zXg5iVKEel4&feature=pyv&ad=5621279621&kw=dryer%20felt%20sealalso while you have it apart vac it out.if nothing wrong with felt you can buy a kit with the belt,rollers and pulley to change them out,one of these should be your problem but metal on metal i would check the felt seal first.hope this helps and good luck.