Electric Mobility Invacare Pronto M41 Electric Scooter Power Wheelchair - Page 7 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Hi, GOTO the following website , they sell you a 5 amps one for 30 including postage.

Hi, Okay first of all the throttle pot may not be returning to the central position any-more normally this causes a error condition, a bleeping sound, the other thing is the brake is not working correctly , it be worn or not releasing , Do you hear a click when going forward or backwards ?, Some Sterling's work with the brake disconnected so check the wiring.. remember 24v is applied to the electromagnic brake to release the plates allowing you to move, keep me posted please. Gewiz

go to www.scribed.com and give them something and download what you want

I think i've found it. Go to this website; Click herehttp://www.discountscooters.co.uk/extra/pages-productinfo/category-88_90_103/product-1134/scooter-spares-by-make-sunrise-medical-spares-sterling-emerald-sunrise-medical-sterling-emerald-main-controller.html

You can't install new brushes in these newer trans-axles without doing some work to the bushes. Take note of the old bushes, look at the side of the brush that contacts the commutator, ITs curved taking on the shape of the commutator... Whats important about this is that the entire side of that bush is making contact with the commutator. Brand new brushes are perfectly squared off not allowing for very good contact. Trans-axle motors run at around 10 amps, and they are regenerative so when going downhill you are putting a charge on the battery. Recharging the battery acts like load on the trans-axle motor now working as a generator. When the trans-axle is in generator mode depending on how you utilize the speed control lever will vary the load on the motor creating a dynamic breaking effect on the scooter. Well all those amps and loading amps go through the brushes and if they have a razor thin point of contact its not going to work to good. So you must get a griding wheel that is as close to diameter of the commutator as possible and fit the brush. You can take brushes and have them fitted at a motor repair shop. Or you can try blocking the drive wheels off the floor and just running the motor until the brushes wear down to the point were the amps flow. Are not scooters cool devices, hope this helps

I like http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/ they have parts for anything that even thinks its a scooter

Take your batteries out, and take them down to .a battery shop. Have the battery load tested, Reading the voltage under no load conditions will not tell you much, normally the batteries voltage gives you it state of charge. These batteries will show a full charge at no load, as soon as you put any load at all on the voltage drops off and you don't have much in amperage output. The amperage is what is important when you right down to it. When load testing your battery they will use an instrument that they punch in the cranking amps. The instrument will look for the voltage drop off at a load of what ever amp value you punched into the instrument. The instrument will give you a pass\fail indication for the cranking amps value the technician punched into the keypad. There can be a problem when load testing batteries. The technician doesn't key in a amperage value, This is what happened to me. The instrument when no value is entered will use a default value, Say the default amperage is usually set at around 200 Cranking amps. My technician was either rushed or just being lazy. He set the load tester to use the default values, my battery passed with the tester set up the way it was. My battery is a 35 amp\hr battery and puts out 480 cranking amps In actuality my batteries weren't putting out nearly that much. It would put out 265 cranking amps for about 2 seconds then die. He told me the batteries were good. When i brought the batteries back to himi didn't let him take them into thee back room. THIS TIME HE DID THE CHECKS OUT IN PLAIN SIGHT OF ME. I asked to do a comparison between my batteries and new ones. We had to retest a number of time in order to find the upper limit of the new batteries. As it turned out my batteries were bad and all my problems disappeared with my old batteries. NOTE, scooters use deep cycle batteries only Glass mate batteries if you want to take your scooter on a flight.Now if you had your batteries load tested and you know their good, its got to be the charger thats malfunctioning. Is your charger built in.check the connection points. One connector should go to the negative battery terminal, the other connector should go too the positive terminal and read +24v. Make sure the connections are solid. Hope this helps

You don't need to go to a Mobility scooter manufacturer to get a bearing. Take the bearing down too your local bearing shop. They will measure it or use the numbers on the bearing to find you an exact match and you will get the bearing for allot less money too.

Block the rear wheels up off the floor. Now put the sccoter in gear and let her rip! Is it real noisy? Did they replace the motor or the trans-axle on which th motor is appart of. If they replaced the entire assembly and its still making noise, thats what they sound like. Ive heard some of the scooters make a winning sound. Go to a place that sells this model and compare. My scooter is a Rascal 600t it makes some noise. It shouldn't be too noisy though. Its hard to tell from here.

Either your parking brake is engaged or if your scooter is more like mine i have a Rascal 600t it gives a code 5 service code when it thinks its in free wheel. The freewheel mechanism is located on the trans-axle which if you go outside across grass it gets wet. Th is device doesn't like moister and will get stiff will partially engage or disengage. In that mechanism there is a micro-switch which if the lever when slipped into the engaged position doesn't go all the way to the seated position the switch will see the mechanism as being disengaged [in free wheel] and will inhibit the motor from running. I lubricate the entire assembly with pure silicon spray oil,WARNING, do not use WD-40, It will eat some plastics.After lubricating the lever should move smoothly. I have to lub my scooter about once a month in the winter.Now if this doesn't work check the connector that are all the wires are connected. Disconnect the connector check the pins are ok reconnect check to see if your still getting the failure. If you are still getting this problem do continuity checks on the wiring. You will need a multimeter only $9 http://www.amazon.com/Mastech-YG188-Pocket-size-analog-multimeter/dp/B00064CH6A/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1339024102&sr=1-8 Check the switch in the freewheel assembly. Select ohms the highest scale, short the leads together, zero the meter by turning the zero adjust knob. There is only one wire we are interested in. On some scooters you can visually see the switch and the wire running from it. The wire usually foes to a spade connector. Disconnect the spade connector put a probe on that connector leading to the switch. Disconnect the battery put other probe on the positive side of the terminals that were connected to the battery not to the battery it side.Work the switch does the meter needle deflect to zero, no, try the negative side. Does the meter deflect, no, put the probes directly on the switch terminals, does the switch.when worked now cause the meter to deflect, no, replace switch, yes, the problem is in the harness, don't panic, use can use that meter to trace the wire through the harness. Wiggling wires and flexing connectors usually makes the meter flick at some point. Thats how i do it i'm never without my trusty meter. Rascal are notorious for having problems of this type my mid-frame harness fell apart in the middle of a six lane intersection, the scooter simply locks up tight .I can do nothing but sit in the middle of this huge intersection. People try to move me but the scooters wheels are locked, my illness makes it so i can't communicate with people do it was a mess. So i modified the connector so its no longer a latch type connector. I drilled it for a quick pin which is much stronger than what its using now. Hope this helps

Take the batteries down to a battery shop and have them load tested. Make absolutely sure they are DEEP CYCLE batteries. My 35a\h batteries put out 480 cranking amps. The battery shop can also test your charger. I have two chargers for my scooter the 4amp charger that came built into the chair, and a really nice three stage 5amp external charger. My scooters batteries have two 50amp quick disconnect connectors. I made up an external harness for the 5amp charger with the same connectors. I can now charge up my batteries out of the scooter. They say my built in charger is a 4amp charger, its slow in comparison to the 5amp charger. Batteries are expensive, regular chargers charge at one rate, full speed and can overcharge a battery. A three stage charger is by far way batter on your batteries. When you start to charge a depleted battery it put out full 5amps but as the battery nears being charged the charger backs off the amperage. When the battery is fully charged the charger goes into float mode and put out just enough amperage to maintain the charge. When i'm not using my scooter i keep the batteries connected to this charger. Deep cycle glass mat batteries don't stay charged very long when just sitting around. In about six months a dead battery will sulfate to the point where it will no longer take a charge. That happened to me once and cost me $200, never again will this happen to me. Battery shops are great places they have the instruments to tell you everything you need to know about the batteries. The batteries are the heart of your scooter unless you know there condition all kinds of strange things can happen. To make sure my batteries were good i have them checked against a known good set of batteries. BTW- Cranking amp is measured by putting a load on battery and increasing that load until the voltage falls off. At the point just before that voltage drop they measure the amperage output, that is you're cranking amps

check connection ware & clean,check fuse.if ok check battery load to direct with other load.

You can always try looking online for tips and advice. I have used several sites for advice on various topics. There are a lot of websites that offer advice on mobility scooters.

Have you tried ( bt junkie ) you will need a bittorrent to use it i use ( u torrent)

IT would be a carb problem. There is a float that operates a needle valve that regulates the amount of fuel that the bowl holds. If the needle and seat are leaking the bowl would fill and overflow. This could also be caused by the float which has developed a leak and no longer regulates the fuel level as its weight has increased and it does not lift the needle to shut it off. To access these parts you need to remove the top cover of the carb and you will see the float and the needle where it attaches to the float near its pivot point. Start by fitting a new needle and seat.

Hi za900

You have several options to consider.
1. Controller is bad. This can only be checked by putting another controller on it. There is no test for controllers.

2. If the charger is bad your scooter will not run.

3. make sure your brake is in the lock position.

4. make sure your scooter is not plugged into the wall.

5. If your brake is bad the scooter won't run.

6. If your Throttle engager is bad the scooter won't run.

Have a tech evaluate for you, too many things could be the problem.

Any durable medical equipment company in your area can help you.

Good Luck
Tim

Shell Could be a couple of things but I would suspect the throttle pot. If the scooter is 4-5 years old or older the motor brushes might need replacing. If dad has the scooter outside and it gets damp the brake assembly might be sticking also If it gets rusty. If Medicare paid for dad's scooter I would contact a repair service to check it out and repair it since Medicare will pay for 80% of the repair cost. You can call Repair Express @ 1-877-581-3733 to see if they have a tech in your area or contact the provider that sold your dad the scooter to see if they have a repair service Hope this helps

Power wheelchair batteries use 2 common sizes, the most common is called group 22 or 22NF. Larger or heavy-duty chairs tend to use group 24. Scooters commonly use size U-1 but many now use even smaller batteries.

The number you have is the serial number, the model number would be more helpful when you go to buy the batteries.

Hi

It possible that the chain or belt is broken, and gears that connect from the engine to the chain or belt are worn. It is suggested to go to an electric motor mechanic to get it checked.

Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.

Thank you for contacting fixya.com

Has the scooter been stored unused for a while? If so, the batteries may have gone solid from improper maintenance. There is a gel inside the batteries that needs to have current run through it at least once a week to keep them fluid. The charger is showing a green light because it senses the batteries are full, but instead of being full of power, they are full of crud and need to be replaced again. If the batteries have been properly charged but you still cannot get power, check all your connections to make sure they are tight and that your fuses are not blown.
Good luck!