Top 20 John Deere 420,1020,2010,2020,2510,2520 Tractor Float Questions & Answers

Question edited for clarity, it is a 'Deere', not a 4 legged animal with antlers. Question moved from Cars and Trucks category. You want wiring diagrams for every John Deere Tractor, Combine Harvester, Tiller and Ride-on Mower ever made? Tall order. Google make model wiring diagram Click on the images tab. John Deere sell Service Manuals, but they aren't cheap. If it is old, check the JD Forums. https://www.google.com/search?q=%E2%80%8BJohn+Deere+wiring+diagram ..

moved you from cars to DEERE when did it last run right , never, last year, last decade or found it dead in a barn , History matters. there is no tractor forums here, just mowers etc. is this belt drive or hydastatic drive like see on Cub-Cadet's Garden tractor it is, not real tractor.(farm) yes it is hydrostatic so is this the gear box full of fresh lube oil? spec oil clean. next is the drive from engine to drive (pulley) spinning? belt not missing or slipping or shreaded or loose? make sure controls to hydra box work end to end. and check pump pressure by the book,"? the pump is that finned thing on the side. below. buy the shop manual and it covers trouble shooting.

"Out of range high" or "Voltage above normal, shorted to high source" implies the fuel rail pressure sensor signal wire is shorted to the sensor 5V or other voltage source or the sensor itself has failed.

Likely there is a short in the harness from abrasion or rodent damage but not the only cause. You don't want to start pulling on the harness and inadvertently open the short or the problem will likely reoccur at a most inopportune time.

You'll want to carefully disconnect the sensor and the opposite end of the harness and perform a continuity test between sensor 5V and the sensor signal wire. If no continuity, the harness is not shorted. Then you'll need to do further testing to determine if the problem is the sensor or the ECU.

Question edited for clarity (I think) Question moved to John Deere, (correct Category, I think) Let's guess your 'old style 3020 disease' is a John Deere 3020 tractor. :>D It is a known issue. There are fixes in the link. https://www.google.com/search?q=john+deere+3020+starts+then+quits+and+dies ..

You need a Service Manual and check for codes. https://www.google.com/search?q=John+Deere+5065e+service+manual Charging problems are a known issue. https://www.google.com/search?q=diagnose+charging+system+on+John+Deere+5065e .. ..

Check battery voltage.

It's an older mechanical injector diesel and fuel control so once running it needs no electrical power. The dash lights etc. are easily powered by the alternator. But once you shut if off, a bad battery cell or poor battery connection may effective kill the electrical system.

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to a better John Deere category. The error code is 'Controller doesn't see neutral'. Slide 2 of 7 here https://www.greentractortalk.com/threads/02-4210-not-moving-and-error-codes.14736/ ..

Try contacting John Deere. https://www.johndeeretechinfo.com/index.cfm/type/WIRING-DIAGRAMS/

You just go to the link I attached I'm sure you will get the solution of your problem - Best Manuals

It is the pump and the pumps are about 1000 dollars. They are not that hard to install. IT should cost about 1500 total.

is the primer working ? have you tried the self primer if fitted ? when you turn over the engine is the bubbles in the fuel viewer or does it just drop. or something else.

look here http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/john-deere http://www.mytractorforum.com/12-john-deere-forum

sounds like the wrong size belt or pulley check routing of the belt also

Have you checked the output of the alternator. got a ohm/volt meter? or a battery tester? should be putting out 14 volts. may be the voltage regulator. start there esp if you charge the battery and it runs for a hour.... hour and 1/2 then quits.

see these 2 forums http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/john-deere http://www.mytractorforum.com/12-john-deere-forum

if the valves are working properly and good connections and battery, i would check to see if the compression release is working. i have one in the shop that the release came apart in the engine.

indicates that e retaining unit at the top bearing of the steering box has come loose and the shaft is moving up and down unrestrained by that top bearing

Did you open the gas valve?

sounds like a busted hydrolic hose

There are 2 safety switches on that unit as well. Most of them are right below the steering column in the firewall area. Search that to see if that unit has them. I'd be willing to bet one of them is faulty. Most are just a push button type.