Jandy Lite 2 Natural Gas Pilot Light Heater - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

The flame sensor is attached to the pilot light. It's down on the right side of the burner tray and usually has an orange wire attached.The flame sensor lets the heater know that the pilot light has been lit and it's okay to open the main valve.

I started getting the FL2 ignition failure error code on my Jandy Lite2 Spa heater again this week. I seem to get some variation of this problem every few years, by which point I've forgotten some of the details like which screws not to take out. So, in hopes of saving someone else, and possibly myself, some time in diagnosing this, here are some notes and pictures re how I fixed it. One time it was a bad ignitor. That's the part w/ 2 white wires sticking out just above the burners in the first shot. It's easy to order online and replace. The harder problem which I've seen most often is when the burner lights, but shuts off after about 5 seconds because the flame sensor doesn't detect the flame. The flame sensor is the glowing red rod to the right of the flames in the first picture. I took this shot after cleaning it and getting the heater working again. The second picture shows where it's mounted below the burner w/ one black wire leading to it. Don't remove the screw on the flame mount as the nut behind it comes off and is a bear to get back on. Besides, there's another screw that's nearly impossible to get to that keeps you from removing the sensor w/o removing the burner assembly. However, I've found I can reach up from below w/ some steel wool and clean the corrosion off the flame sensor rod and that has fixed it at least 3 times as I recall. You should also check the burner tubes to see if they've been blocked by spiders. That happened to me once on a gas grill. Be sure to keep your face back when testing w/ the door off so you don't get singed. Hope this helps! - Bruce

I started getting the FL2 ignition failure error code on my Jandy Lite2 Spa heater again this week. I seem to get some variation of this problem every few years, by which point I've forgotten some of the details like which screws not to take out. So, in hopes of saving someone else, and possibly myself, some time in diagnosing this, here are some notes and pictures re how I fixed it. One time it was a bad ignitor. That's the part w/ 2 white wires sticking out just above the burners in the first shot. It's easy to order online and replace. The harder problem which I've seen most often is when the burner lights, but shuts off after about 5 seconds because the flame sensor doesn't detect the flame. The flame sensor is the glowing red rod to the right of the flames in the first picture. I took this shot after cleaning it and getting the heater working again. The second picture shows where it's mounted below the burner w/ one black wire leading to it. Don't remove the screw on the flame mount as the nut behind it comes off and is a bear to get back on. Besides, there's another screw that's nearly impossible to get to that keeps you from removing the sensor w/o removing the burner assembly. However, I've found I can reach up from below w/ some steel wool and clean the corrosion off the flame sensor rod and that has fixed it at least 3 times as I recall. You should also check the burner tubes to see if they've been blocked by spiders. That happened to me once on a gas grill. Be sure to keep your face back when testing w/ the door off so you don't get singed. Hope this helps! - Bruce

cannot bypass need new one

shorted ignitor

shorted flame sensor

at the gas valve

get chemicals in check

make sure you dont have the heat maintain on

get pump working first see if you have 24 volts to pressure switch both sides if so check the rest of the safety circuit

check for jandy dealers see website

bad temp sensor

you can still get mini 4" ignitors if not get pentair mini max

try cleaning out the pilot tubing, or just replace it

yes it needs to be cleaned

burner orifices need to be cleaned out. pull the burner assembly out and clean the burners and manifold orifices. im surprised the flame roll out didn't blow the fusible link

A limit switch prevents higher than normal temperatures in a heater. Part of its function is to act as a a safety switch. It would not be advisable to "jump" this switch. Idf it is not working properly, then replace it.

The heater sides do come off. Your heat exchanger will be what is leaking. Some people (I have never tried) have had them welded at a local radiator shops with some sucess though it is likely the heat exchanger will have several thin areas likely to fail in the near future if you have a leak now.

New heat exchangers are expensive. If you would like a quote, contact us with your heater model and serial number at www.arrowpools.net.

The longer you leave it leaking, the more likely you are to damage other parts down in the bottom of the heater so it is not something you should let sit. If you are going to go without it for a while, close the water off if you have a bypass. Otherwise, consider having the plumbing re-arranged to bypass the heater.

So, you replaced part R367100 (Igniter)? This part if very susceptible to failure if touched. I would inspect and/or run a continuity check to make sure it has non cracks. Does it glow red when you attempt to start the heater? Remember, that is the how it ignites the flame, by getting red hot.

If it glows red hot, but does not light then I'd do the following testing in between;

Check that the inline fuses on the igniter aren't blown,

Check if the control board is sending a charge,

Check the flame sensor for gunk build up. Unfortunately to replace the flame sensor look like you have to purchase a whole new burner assembly to get a new flame sensor.

I also believe there is a toggle switch on the front door. It may need to be depressed before the system will ignite.

its your pool's sand or cartridge filter!!!! heater has no filter