20 Most Recent Bosch Classixx WFL 2066 Front Load Washer - Page 10 Questions & Answers

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

(no promises but it's worth carrying this out anyway!)

I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

F16 measn a problem with your door lock.

The machine senses the door is open and will stop. The door lock isn't that expensive and should solve your problem. If that doesn't solve it then you may have a faulty control board.

Try the first choice. Good luck.

Hello, welcome to FixYa.

I'll start by saying your post indicates it is a Bosch classixx and the "child lock" selection has been activated, either intentional or accidental.

To reset it is as follows...

1) Press the "menu" button until you see "CHILD LOCK :ON" appear in the display. ( if nothing is pressed within 10 sec.following this the menu will close and it will default to program in the display )

2) Once you see what I just mentioned in the display press the "select" button until "CHILD LOCK :OFF" appears in the display.

3) Finally by pressing the "start/pause" button the key symbol should disappear confirming you have successfully exited the child lock program.

**Many times you can also push and hold the start key for several seconds and this too will deactivate the selection...on various models**

Let me know if this was helpful to you or not, if so please take a second and rate it accordingly and a short testimony is also appreciated. Thank you for choosing FixYa.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa,

Based on your post it may just be the hi-limit has tripped. Here's what I'd do/check.

**Unplug the unit from the wall or switch off the breaker...safety first**

Once the dryer has been disconnected from any power, remove the rear panel...

i.e.


Once the panel has successfully been removed, you'll see the heater with the Hi-Limit and NTC attached. The Hi-limit is the thermostat with the red button in the center...

i.e.


push it in to reset it. As you can see by the images I've provided, if you have a multi-meter or ohm meter you can verify the proper values of the listed components.

If the hi-limit is tripped, obviously something triggered it, you can check the possible culprits such as the NTC's or heater with the info I provided above as I alluded to.

( Even so, I'd suggest running it through a cycle or two with clothes and monitor it's performance, it may have tripped simply due to poor air flow from a large load etc. and therefore nothing is actually wrong...human error )

You may run the dryer momentarily without the rear panel in place ( provided nothing electrical has been disconnected, don't attempt an entire cycle. ) just to witness the heater functioning, but it isn't recommended for much longer than a minute or two.

Thank you for choosing FixYa and please let me know what you find out or if you indeed require further assistance.

Good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

(Sorry but you will need the correct model number)
Manual
You will need to type into your search engine/web browser '(make model number) washer manual' and you should be presented with a number of sources from which you can either download for free or have to pay a nominal amount.
You could also try the manufacturer's web site direct ;-0)

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

My list shows Bosch's 'F18' as 'pump blockage'.
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.

It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Absolutely shipping ONLY. They are there to stop the drum banging around when the machine is in transit. They lock the drum to the chassis of the machine. If you leave them in place when the machine is in use it will shake its self to bits and wreck the machine

The answer had been posted earlier.
Please check this link for tips:


http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1373/how-to-replace-the-pump-on-a-washing-machine-.html

The plastic-coated cable in the pump drain access is the manual door release.

The pump drain comes off by unscrewing it counter-clockwise. It may be stuck from detergent residue. Be prepared for water coming out when you open this up. Try to stick a towel under the drain to catch the water.

As for using anything other than your hands to open it, remember that plastic has its limits. I have used Channelock plier jaws as a key of sorts to open drain plugs like these (I open the jaws wide and use the plier handles as a way to turn the plug).

Good luck from Detroit, MI.

It is so common that the washing machine can make terrible noise in many ways and is a common fault. In all occasions it is important that your observation is most important and so is vital to the identification /rectification and solution. If you have noticed that machine is vibrating when it is running then the motor /drum suspension has to be inspected. Since these fittings are located on the underside of the machine it is important that you look for the noise with a good inspection lamp. Manually turn the motor and drum and listen for the noise, if so the motor bearings, the drum agitator shaft and fittings must be checked. Also the suspensions which include the shock absorbers and springs, the body clamps must be checked to be in correct alignment and not changed in position. Tightening of the mounting is also very important. Finally in most cases a drop of OIL or smear of grease on the moving parts cane solve most issues.

Please check the play of the bearings and also the main door seal gasket.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

Remove the complete drawer. To do this you will have to do one of the following-

• Top catch- push down the lip/catch at the middle rear and pull the drawer out (that's how our Bosch one is removed)
• release the catches underneath (our daughter's Indesit) or
• lift upwards on the tray as it is coming out to clear the lip underneath.

Once out clean the tray but most importantly clean the holes in the body of the washer above where the tray goes. Put the tray back in but only far enough to be able to just see the contents. Select the wash cycle and check that water is entering the tray. If it isn't there is a fault with the water distribution and an engineer call is required ;-0(

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

usually it is the larger for the main powder the second largest for the prewash powder and the smallest (labelled with a "max line" for the fab conditioner) the calgon can go in with the main wash or be put straight in the drum.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
It COULD be that there is water still left inside the machine i.e. poor drainage.
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Here are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

2 things- conditioner and filter. Conditioner first!

I suspect that it is the conditioner/softener tray which needs a thorough clean, paying particular attention to the sentences in BOLD ;-0)
-------------------------------------
Remove the complete drawer. To do this you will have to do one of the following-

• Top catch- push down the lip/catch at the middle rear and pull the drawer out (that's how our Bosch one is removed)
• release the catches underneath (our daughter's Indesit) or
• lift upwards on the tray as it is coming out to clear the lip underneath.

One of those should enable you remove it
???
Once out identify which tray is for the conditioner- the others are simply 'chutes' and open-ended.
It will normally have some sort of cover over it which you must remove to expose the little stuck up pipe/tube. On some models there is just a small individual cap over the tube. The tube is down which the conditioner and water should siphon. It is likely to be blocked by 'gunge'- a mix of powder and conditioner. The whole of the tray, particularly this pipe and the bit which fits over it, must be completely clean and clear for it to operate correctly. It is worthwhile checking fairly regularly.
If this does not work, pull out the dispenser drawer far enough to be able to just see the softener tray, select the (final?) rinse and check that water is entering the tray. If it isn't there is a fault with the water distribution and an engineer call is required ;-0(
Filter
Had the same problem with our Bosch, cap would not even turn!
Suggestions-
pour anticalc/limescale fluid into any gap there is around the cap. Empty the machine and you can switch it off providing the door is open! Then pour the contents of at least 2 sachets of proprietary anticalc powder/liquid into the drum direct together with a kettle full of boiling water. Leave overnight at the very least. The following day run just a spin cycle as then there will be no water diluting the mix. This mix will go through the filter and motor and is likely to help release the filter/cap. If you feel like it, do the overnight again. If nothing else it will ensure that the heater element is clean!
I had to spend a couple of hours gently turning the cap back and forth until it finally released its hold- but the filter did not remain attached to the cap by its rubber ring. More patience, anticalc fluid and all was revealed!
I now run an anticalc clean regularly............which reminds me..............!

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

Sounds as if the door lock is misbehaving but go for a manual- for now and later!
You will need to type into your search engine/web browser '(make model number) washer manual' and you should be presented with a number of sources from which you can either download for free or have to pay a nominal amount.
You could also try the manufacturer's web site direct ;-0)
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C.

Mine did this when the filters in the hoses were clogged and it was taking too long for the water to enter the machine. I cleaned the filters and the softener was pulled into the cycle. Hope this helps.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

Manual first!
You will need to type into your search engine/web browser '(make model number) washer manual' and you should be presented with a number of sources from which you can either download for free or have to pay a nominal amount.
You could also try the manufacturer's web site direct ;-0)

Heater second- possible cause but no guarantee- could be many things.
It is possible that the heater element is coated in calcium. I suggest you run the contents of a couple of sachets of proprietary limescale removing powder/fluid through it. The most efficient way is to put the contents in an empty washer and pour the contents of a kettle or 2 of hot water into the drum then leave overnight. In the morning run just a spin; the water mix will then go through the drain filter and drain motor impeller blades, doing absolutely NO harm whatsoever, in fact some good!
You could also consider repeating the action ;-0)
If still washing cold only, it could be a malfunctioning heater element or control board. It could also be the temperature sensor, called an NTC (negative temperature co-efficient) 'resistor' BUT your action of pouring hot water in COULD have also kicked it into life. Funny old world, isn't it!

Now third- a really important bit of your washer- the 'little compartment at the front base'- the drain filter/pump motor access!
Here are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
If you are unsure where the filter is,(which you do!) it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If these have assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C.