20 Most Recent Makita 2 Bl1830 18v Battery,dc18ra Charger Lxt Fr Drill - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Sorry to give you my opinion, but these chargers are very delicate, I have 4 and can barely keep 2 going. My recommendation? Open it up and look for obvious shorts/loose wires, if no luck then buy another one and return the busted one as if it were the new one. You will end up with two working chargers. PS this is probably fraud...ha!
Matt Giantglobes.com

It is shot, they don't last long. I have boxes full of dead batteries, makita's especially. It is cheaper to buy a new drill motor than to buy new batteries. That is how they make money I guess. You have to have their batteries. Hope this helps.

hi all,
I added another HowTo page for moding the DC18RA from 110V to 220V , you can find it here
Have fun and good luck

dc18ra has a fan for this purpose, I woudn't change anything in this unit
check to see if your fan is working

does it have green blinking light when you plug it to mains w/o battery in it ?

Hey Chris
sorry to read of your unpleasant experience.
I assume you are in a 220-240AC net.

Anyway, this charger will not work well if at all with a universal charger because of the high power it needs.
You can use a transformer which cost a lot for this spec, modify the unit or buy a unit for 220VAC.

If you are into modding it, have a look at this page assuming you have model DC18RA T , P/N: 630516A7

If you are lucky only the fuse and probably a capacitor and varistor blew up, you should check this.

Good luck
Avi

Hey
check the end of this page. you have it all there
have fun
Avi

i have had the same problem with red and green flashing on my makita charger --- cleaned the contacts blew out the fan problem solved

Return to store for replacement.

The best way to fix this is to open the case, strip both wires back to expose the wire, slide a shrink wrap insulator over each individual wire, and then solder the wires back together. When connected, slide the shrink insulation down over the solder connection and then use heat to shrink the insulation around your repair, then close the case back up.

Hello,
The component is a resistor. The problem is going to be determining the resistors value since it was burnt and you can not see the color code. You might try contacting the manufacturer and asking them the value of that specific resistor by including the number like you did in your post R14. If you can find a wiring diagram for the product, it should tell you the value of the resistor also.

I hope this helps you getting started in solving the issue.

If you would not mind, please rate my help. I would greatly appreciate it. Thank You

these newer chargers do make a tone that can be changed. when the batterys are initially inserted they will make a sound and then when they are fully charged they will make another usually longer sound. you can change it by removing the battery with 5 seconds and reinserting until you find the sound that you like.. I would look at the charging lights before deciding the charger or battery are bad.

Well, Christmas is coming.....

Check the speed control. There is a speed control usually from hi to low... sounds like it's in between speeds... try adjusting it back and forth...
It should go back into one gear and work fine.

tricky question the size and the cost is important so .repair drill cost versus new drill?
new drill for me sir.
repair chuck may be good but other parts should be repaired once you are inside the drill which is going to cost more.

Pardonnez moi parsque ma francais est tres mal! If you have been a bad boy and managed to short the battery by using it for non-proscribed purposes, the fusible link will blow (kind of like a fuse) To fix it, open up the battery (use a Torx 10 security bit, or a small flathead in a pinch) On the battery connection nearest the spring-loaded white catch there is a small bridge of metal with a hole in the center. If this is melted you can solder it back together by sanding the two pieces and putting a glob of solder on them. This will void your warranty (duh!) and remove the battery's fuse protection, but it WILL work again. If the link is intact and nothing else is obviously wrong, you almost certainly have a bad cell. I recommend pulling out the bad cell ( it will be the one that does not read between 2.5 - 4 vdc) and replacing it with one from another dud battery- this requires some fudging and re-soldering. Or do what I did, pull the cell, toss the electronics and the short pink wire, add a cigarette lighter socket and voila! you have a portable power supply giving around 14 volts. Charge it up by wiring two cigarette lighter male ends together (check polarity , + to + and - to -) and plug it into your car, but only while it is running or you will be charging your car battery with it! Hope that helps.
Matt Binns GiantGlobes.com

If you have been a bad boy and managed to short the battery by using it for non-proscribed purposes, the fusible link will blow (kind of like a fuse) To fix it, open up the battery (use a Torx 10 security bit, or a small flathead in a pinch) On the battery connection nearest the spring-loaded white catch there is a small bridge of metal with a hole in the center. If this is melted you can solder it back together by sanding the two pieces and putting a glob of solder on them. This will void your warranty (duh!) and remove the battery's fuse protection, but it WILL work again. If the link is intact and nothing else is obviously wrong, you almost certainly have a bad cell. I recommend pulling out the bad cell ( it will be the one that does not read between 2.5 - 4 vdc) and replacing it with one from another dud battery- this requires some fudging and re-soldering. Or do what I did, pull the cell, toss the electronics and the short pink wire, add a cigarette lighter socket and voila! you have a portable power supply giving around 14 volts. Charge it up by wiring two cigarette lighter male ends together (check polarity , + to + (tip end) and - to -) and plug it into your car, but only while it is running or you will be charging your car battery with it! Hope that helps.
Matt Binns GiantGlobes.com

you need to pull it a part than check each battery cell with the volt meter and it should be 20volt if undel 11. 1 that cell needs replacing wich will cost you about 2.00 dollers insted of $80 to $90 dollers a littel soldering and your on tha way..cheers peter

Ciao Vittorio,

Qui di seguito ci sono i collegamenti alle istruzioni in inglese pubblicate da uno dei nostri tecnici, il primo sito include i dettagli della resistenza variabile e dei due condensatori (capacitor in inglese).
Segui le istruzioni sul primo sito che sono piu complete, nel secondo sito solo il primo condensatore viene rimpiazzato, in questo modo si rischia di fondere il secondo condensatore con uso prolungato sulla nuova rete.


Istruzioni 1

Istruzioni 2

I due condensatori dovrebbero essere un 150µF 400V e un 22µF 450V (o 400V) . Il varistore (resistenza variabile) 14D361K , VMax=360 Imax=6000.
anche il fusibile deve essere cambiato, per evitare che si fonda immediatamente a causa della diversa differenza di potenziale della rete europea.

I condensatori possono essere comprati in qualsiasi negozio di componenti, il varistore si puo ordinare da http://it.digikey.com/1/1/1326737-varistor-220v-10mm-straight-lead-rov10h221k-s.html

Io non lavoro in Italia da molto tempo ormai, ma penso che il Varistore si possa anche ordinare direttamente da BTicino , in caso loro producono componenti con tutte le specifiche per ogni voltaggio di rete.

Meglio contattarli per essere sicuri di comprare la parte giusta, controlla anche le dimensioni del varistore, e stai attento alla polarita'dei condensatori.

Se hai bisogno di ulteriori informazioni fammi sapere, io rispondo entro 24 ore.

Se sei soddisfatto con la risposta, non dimenticarti di votare la soluzione, il tuo voto e' molto importante per noi.

Mille grazie.

Ginko