20 Most Recent Porter Cable C2002 Wk 150 Psi 6 Gal. Oil Free Compressor w/13 Piece Hose & Accessory Kit Questions & Answers

Porter Cable C2002 Parts List and Diagram Type 2 eReplacementParts com

Assuming there is 120 volts at the plug, the next thing to do is exhaust all compressed air and see if it restarts. If it restarts the pressure cut in/out switch may need readjusted. If the compressor fails to start again, I would suspect the pressure switch is bad needing replaced.

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If the machine is new, take it back to the dealer and get your money back or at least have them get it repaired under warranty. It would appear that the diaphragm has a hole in it or it has a missing valve assembly in the compressor itself. Have you checked around the machine for large air leaks? Check the safety 'blow-off' valve for any leakage? Look for missing tank plugs or a missing shut-off valve at the air exit point. Good luck!

ya screw it in to up the preasure.. still dont work remove it and work with out it.. need it buy one at hobo freight there around 10 buck
hey if'n i was of help please tell me..thanks jay

Look for massive air leaks all around the machine including the safety 'blow-off' valve. The compressor diaphragm may have a hole in it. If this machine is new, return it to the dealer and get your money back or at least get it repaired under warranty. Good luck!

Make sure the tank drain on the bottom of the tank is shut off if there is one.
It should not take more than three or four minutes to fill a small pancake tank.
You hear any hissing noises while the pump is running? If so, there's an air leak, see if you can stop them somehow.
If the above does not answer, return unit for refund or exchange.

The air leak you have described is probably from the unloader valve which may not be seating after it dumps cylinder pressure. If you can find a good manual for it, disassemble the unloader valve and check for contaminates or build up around the seat. The differential spring may have lost it's value also, in which case you will need to replace the unloader assembly.

There is a fairly simple mechanism that turns the pump off when the pressure reaches a set limit,and turns the pump back on again when the pressure drops below another set point.The motor is controlled by a switch that is actuated in one way,or the other by a diaphragm.The actuator may be disconnected from the switch,the switch may be bad(stuck in the closed position),or the diaphragm may have a hole,or tear in it.You can try removing the switch,and seeing if it will open,and close manually(If not replace the switch).If the switch is good,and the connection between the diaphragm,and switch seem intact you probably have a damaged diaphragm.It could be difficult to detect because of the pressure involved.(You may not be able to tell its leaking by blowing on it). One possible test would be to make a solution of soapy water,and spray,or apply it to the diaphragm parts in some other way,And look for a leak that way(look for growing bubbles)(Be careful with live electrical parts!)

A pressure valve is not adjustable if you are trying to remove it for replacement it has standard threads. Clockwise to tighten and counter to loosing it. First though a pressure valve is the same as a relief valve it is for safety to keep from over loading you comperssor and blowing a head gasket or in extreme cases blowing up you tank. Be careful.

You prolly have a leaky gasket in the main valve. Air is leaking and causeing it not to go about 60psi, you probably have it set to reach a high PSI but since the leak is not allowing it reach above 60 it keeps cycling trying to get above it

Does the compressor continue to run but not build more pressure? In which case it is an air leak most likely, or does the compressor shut off at 50 PSI? In which case it is mose likely the pressure switch. If it is an air leak you can un-screw the guage and coat with putty or teflon tape and reinstall to clog the leak around the threads..

If you have an owner's manual for this machine, it will show you how to adjust the cannister pressure to keep more available air, thus forcing the machine to kick on less times. I hope this helps.

Most air pressure regulator knobs work like a "child-proof" cap on a medicine vial.  It has a spring inside that keeps it dis-engaged from the tooth like gears inside.  To turn the knob you must first pull out or push in the knob.  You should feel some resistance from the spring inside.  As you pull, you will feel the knob seat into the "teeth" inside.  Then you can turn the knob and change the air pressure supplied.   Note:  most air regulator valves work in the opposite manner of regular water valves.  Turning the knob clockwise should increase the air pressure... counter clockwise should decrease the pressure.       I hope this solution will bring you success.   Best Regards,  Michael Mittelsdorf

I also have a PC Model 136 belt sander. Although I don't do a lot of woodworking, it has proved to be a workhorse when I needed it. I don't have a problem with breaking belts - the last ones I bought at OSH. The problem that has developed with mine is getting the belt alignment adjusted, after a belt change, to not run against the sander body. A little banging (with my hand) will correct the problem. I have serviced it to free up the fulcrum, but it still jams most of the time. This doesn't address your problem, but it is good to hear of someone else who appreciates the fine older tools. Just a further thought - the newer belts I have purchased are bi-directional, e.g., they will run either way. I know that the older belts had to run one way and running them backward could - almost surely would - cause them to break. I won't insult your intelligence to suggest that that might be your problem.

The brushes are not replaceable - it is an entire motor assembly. 1) remove the 2 screws holding the top handle on 2) remove the 2 screws on the top of the housing (front either side of switch) 3) remove single screw holding cord hook (rear side of housing) 4) remove small torx screw in the shaker handle and remove the handle Flip over and using a screwdriver begin to pry the top cover off the housing (easiest to get the front side off first)

any word on type of nailer?

call this company, they have the different types I purchased from them and no complaints https://www.ereplacementparts.com/porter-cable-7800-