20 Most Recent Continental Fish File Refrigerator - 1 Row Questions & Answers

The engine is kept cool by a liquid circulating through the engine to a radiator. In the radiator, the liquid is cooled by air passing through the radiator tubes. The coolant is circulated by a rotating water pump driven by the engine crankshaft. The complete engine cooling system consists of a radiator, recovery system, cooling fan, thermostat, water pump and serpentine belt.
Check the coolant level in the recovery bottle or surge tank, usually mounted on the inner fender. With the engine cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD or between the FULL HOT and ADD level. With the engine at normal operating temperature, the coolant level should be at the FULL HOT or HOT mark. Only add coolant to the recovery bottle or surge tank as necessary to bring the system up to a proper level. On any vehicle that is not equipped with a coolant recovery bottle or surge tank, the level must be checked by removing the radiator cap. This should only be done when the cooling system has had time to sufficiently cool after the engine has been run. The coolant level should be within 2 in. (51mm) of the base of the radiator filler neck. If necessary, coolant can then be added directly to the radiator.
While you are checking the coolant level, check the radiator cap for a worn or cracked gasket. If the cap doesn't seal properly, fluid will be lost and the engine will overheat.
Worn caps should be replaced with a new one.
Periodically clean any debris; leaves, paper, insects, etc. from the radiator fins. Pick the large pieces off by hand. The smaller pieces can be washed away with water pressure from a hose.
Carefully straighten any bent radiator fins with a pair of needle nose pliers. Be careful, the fins are very soft. Don't wiggle the fins back and forth too much. Straighten them once and try not move them again. It is recommended that the radiator be cleaned and flushed of sludge and any rust build-up once a year. If this has not been administered within the stated time, this may be why your vehicle is overheating at this time. Have the Radiator flushed asap if this is the case.
Now, if the coolant level is proper and, the cap is in fair or good condition, i would advise to move in the direction of the cooling fans and sensors as well. These fans are vital to the cooling process as well. The cooling fans must cycle in intervals to keep the coolant cool during stop and go driving or, long idle. They are also very important during the operational period of the AC during travel as well. i recommend inspecting the cooling fans while the engine is running. they should cycle during the running period. if thsi is not the case, you will need to test the operational value of these devices. The test procedure follows below

TESTING

1. If the fan doesn't operate, disconnect the fan and apply voltage across the fan terminals. If the fan still doesn't run, it needs a new motor. 2. If the fan runs, with the jumpers but not when connected, the fan relay is the most likely problem. 3. If fan operates but a high current draw is suspected continue with the following ammeter TESTING. 4. Disconnect the electrical connector from the cooling fan. 5. Using an ammeter and jumper wires, connect the fan motor in series with the battery and ammeter. With the fan running, check the ammeter reading, it should be 3.4-5.0 amps; if not, replace the motor. 6. Reconnect the fan's electrical connector. Start the engine, allow it to reach temperatures above 194°F and confirm that the fan runs. If the fan doesn't run, replace the temperature switch.

Ok, Now we will move on to the next possible issue. The water pump. ok, due to the fact that your pump is driven by the drive belt, you will need to start the engine and listen for bad bearing, using a mechanic's Stethoscope or rubber tubing.
* Place the stethoscope or hose on the bearing or pump shaft. * If a louder than normal noise is heard, the bearing is defective.
Replace the pump in this case.
You will also notice leakage around the pump housing if the seal has failed as well. this will strain the impeller and, ruin the pump.
Now. the last area of concern will be the thermosta. this is the most common issue that will inflict overheating in many vehicles. The thermostat is used to control the flow of engine coolant. When the engine is cold, the thermostat is closed to prevent coolant from circulating through the engine. As the engine begins to warm up, the thermostat opens to allow the coolant to flow through the radiator and cool the engine to its normal operating temperature. Fuel economy and engine durability is increased when operated at normal operating temperature.

There are several ways to test the opening temperature of a thermostat.
One method does not require that the thermostat be removed from the engine.
* Remove the radiator pressure cap from a cool radiator and insert a thermometer into the coolant. * Start the engine and let it warm up. Watch the thermometer and the surface of the coolant. * When the coolant begins to flow, this indicates the thermostat has started to open. * The reading on the thermometer indicates the opening temperature of the thermostat. * If the engine is cold and coolant circulates, this indicates the thermostat is stuck open and must be replaced.
The other way to test a thermostat is to remove it.
* Suspend the thermostat completely submerged in a small container of water so it does not touch the bottom. * Place a thermometer in the water so it does not touch the container and only measures water temperature. * Heat the water. * When the thermostat valve barely begins to open, read the thermometer. This is the opening temperature of this particular thermostat. * If the valve stays open after the thermostat is removed from the water, the thermostat is defective and must be replaced. * Several types of commercial testers are available. When using such a tester, be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions. * Markings on the thermostat normally indicate which end should face toward the radiator. Regardless of the markings, the sensored end must always be installed toward the engine. * When replacing the thermostat, also replace the gasket that seals the thermostat in place and is positioned between the water outlet casting and the engine block.
* Generally, these gaskets are made of a composition fiber material and are die-cut to match the thermostat opening and mounting bolt configuration of the water outlet. * Thermostat gaskets generally come with or without an adhesive backing. The adhesive backing of gaskets holds the thermostat securely centered in the mounting flange, leaving both hands of the technician free to align and bolt the thermostat securely in place.

you should relist under lincoln continental, not refrigerators. If you have electronic temp control, you should not have a resister. You should have a bower motor speed controller.

here's info for 1996 system. I don't have 1995, sorry.

A/C Blower Motor Speed Control
The A/C blower motor speed control (19E624) is located under the A/C evaporator housing, to the left of the blower motor (18527).

• The function of the A/C blower motor speed control is to convert low power signals from the EATC control assembly to a high current, variable ground feed for the blower motor.
• A/C blower motor speed is infinitely variable and is controlled by the electronic control assembly software and A/C electronic door actuator motor position.
• A delay function provides a gradual increase or decrease in blower motor speed under all conditions.

Blower Speed Override Thumbwheel
Rotate the blower speed override thumbwheel more than 10 degrees to turn OFF the AUTOMATIC blower indicator and provide manual control of the A/C blower motor speed.

• The display will show FAN and a fan symbol.
• Rotating the wheel fully down against its lower stop locks the blower motor (18527) at its lowest speed.
• Rotating the wheel fully up against the stop, locks the blower motor at its highest speed.

Press the AUTOMATIC button to resume automatic A/C blower motor control and remove the FAN and fan symbol from the display window.
------------------------------------------------------------------

Re-gas.

industrial unit check for leaks vacuum pump the system till dry refill with correct gas and pressure check for leaks clear cooling fins

If it already has a hard start kit on the compressor and you are needing another I would consider purchasing a new compressor or a complete new refrigerator. APPLIANCE 911

It depends whether or not you have tilted the refrigerator. If you laid the refrigerator on it's side, you will wait 24 hours to plug it in, AFTER you have set it up in the normal position. That is to allow the refrigerant oil to return to it's proper position in the compressor. If you simply unplugged it to clean the coil, you may plug it in as soon as you are done. God bless your efforts.

Right here http://www.appliancepartspros.com/search.aspx?model=ec29101

What is the make and model number? What happened to the old one?

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.

Sounds like the cold control has stuck . Unplug the two wires from the cold control and plug them together. Turn one wire over and plug it into the other. away from the cold control.
The cold control is the knob in the ref that turns it on and off and has numbers on it. (Thermostat)
If it runs then that cold control (Thernostat) is the problem.
If that doesn't work DO THIS:
The relay on the compressor may need replaced
A relay starts the compressor with a higher voltage and then quickly kicks out
Thats what is happening with yours
Its best for a tech to replace The relay but you can do it
Take your model number to your Local Appliance parts store they will have a diagram
showing you how to install the relay. Its called a hard start relay
also try hooking the two wires together on the cold control to route around the cold control.

If you need more help GO HERE:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html


---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
MORE TRICKS:
STOP PAYING FOR EXPENSIVE WATER FILTERS FOR YOUR REF. DO THIS____
http://www.fixya.com/support/r9962087-stop_paying_high_price_refrigerator
Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
Please VOTE FOR ME IF THIS WAS HELPFUL
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Most overlooked dryer energy saving problem EVER!
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5739846-most_overlooked_dryer_energy_savingr
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
REF THERMOMETERS TIPS

http://www.fixya.com/support/r10177561-second_biggest_refrigerator_energy

Thank you for using fixya
Leo Ponder
PLEASE VOTE FOR ME IF THIS WAS HELPFUL

90 psi for 134a is to high, should be around 40 psi. the 140 that you are seeing is the test pressures for that side of the system and does not reflect operation pressures. sounds like it is over charged. hope this helps.

Is the fan motor in the freezer running?

This could be caused by one of three things. Either you have a bad defrost timer or a bad defrost element, or bad wiring related to those two. Unhook the two leads to the defrost element and check the resistance of the element. If it is open, replace the element. If it reads resistance, replace the defrost timer.

Question edited for clarity. Question moved from Cars and Trucks category. This is primarily a South African make and not one we know here in North America. This link should work better where you live and provide some insight. https://www.google.com/search?q=DEFY+DOUBLE+DOOR+FRIDGE+DFF417+error+OC2 ..

You probably need to replace the water filter.... https://www.partstown.com/hisense/hrf266n6cse/filters-screens-driers/parts

Humming is a classic sign that the start / run capacitor for the compressor has failed. Call for service, have it checked for gas and condenser cleaned. ..

https://video.search.yahoo.com/search/video?fr=mcafee&p=Ice+dispenser+won%27t+stop+running&type=E210US1494G0#id=2&vid=30691769491d1616470402498715efe1&action=click This may not be your model but could help you.

On an AEG SANTO 3533, the tray sits on top of the compressor. There is a short metal "tunnel" on top of the compressor. The tray has a plastic clip in the middle which goes through the tunnel and latches up on the other side. To remove, reach to the back of the metal in the middle of the tray, press the plastic clip firmly down, and pull/wiggle the tray backwards horizontally to remove. Needed a torch to see clearly on mine. One of these things that's easy once you've done it once.

Copper has anantibacterial effect. Studies recommend storing water in copper containers for several hours before consumption to maximize this benefit. Some research suggests 48 hours. perhaps explore dedicatedcopper water bottlesfrom reputable sources for optimal water storage. This refers to water, not juices.

Question edited for clarity. Help and videos in the link. However it is 40 years old and has probably seen better days. There isn't much you can do if it needs refrigerant gas as you need a certified engineer. https://www.google.com/search?q=1984+Norcold+8310+series+RV+refrigerator+that+isn%27t+working ..