Cuisinart DLC-10S Pro Classic Food Processor - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

check the slot width

Yes. It's the basic physics of all liquids. Perhaps a blender might be a more suitable tool? Generally you would use the food processor for mixing/blending/chopping all the dry ingredients (and maybe the butter if you are making something like cookies). Separately mix all the really wet ingredients together in a mixing bowl/large measuring cup. Then combine the dry ingredients from the food processor with the wet ingredients in a mixing bowl (you can fold the dry into the wet if you used a bowl to mix the wet ingredients together. If you used a measuring cup for the wet, then it's usually better to put the dry ingredients into the mixing bowl first, making a depressed area in the center, and then add the wet into the dry.)

Try this link: Food Processors Product Manuals Cuisinart com And look for the one that generally matches the era (design) of your machine, and then the bowl size. All the best to you!

Found it at:

http://safemanuals.com/user-guide-instructions-owner-manual/CUISINART/DLC-10S-_E

Go to the following website. You will find a downloadable copy of your manual there, for free:

http://safemanuals.com/user-guide-instructions-owner-manual/CUISINART/DLC-10C-_E

I am guessing that something is not seated properly. Make sure the bowl clicks when turned...drops the pin in. Make sure the top is ("clicked in") locked. If you poured something out of the bowl and went to re-use it, make sure the blade is seated properly; make sure there is no food caught under the blade hindering the blade to be seated. Everything must be locked in correctly to operate safely.

Possibly the micro switch which is activated when the lid is turned into position. Sometimes a particle of food gets lodged in the opening and prevents the lid from engaging the switch. Or maybe the wires in the plug have come loose.

take it back to the store you bought it and they will give a new one and your money back

Cuisinart RC1 blades replacement parts is cuisinart food processor stainless steel chopping blade.

We fixed the same problem with the same Cuisinart DLC-10S, the problem was the white plastic switch on the work bowl - - it was placed above a short clear plastic partition which blocked the switch from pushing the plunger enough to start the motor. It came out of the box that way, bad quality control. I pushed the white plastic switch down over the partition and now the machine works, and the switch can push the pole down the amount needed to start the motor. Very sloppy packaging by Cuisinart. Now the appliance is working, so far. My wife still likes Cuisinart but I'm suggesting she look at other brands next time. The owners manual for this appliance is C*R*A*P and next to useless.

replace the switch the contact maybe totally worn out or maybe the the switch button cannot hits by the plunger.

If you haven't already closely examine the part of both lids that engages the switch, carefully compare the two. The one that works must be slightly different than the one that doesn't, or it is interfacing with the switch differently. It may be that a small piece of the plastic got chipped, or that one lid puts more pressure on the switch than the other. If you find a difference post a comment in this thread and I will attempt to assist you with further suggestions.

I have a DLC7pro from around 1982 that I just replaced the sheath on.

To remove the sheath I use a small pipe cutter and took the sheath off in approximately ½ inch sections. Once the circular cut was complete I used a plier to pull off the section. - This method worked GREAT! Be sure you get ALL of the white plastic off and be sure to remove the ½ inch brass "ring" which is part of the old sheath. Also, make sure no plastic "crumbs" are in the base of the shaft where the new sheath will sit. You will see that the metal shaft has a flat side. With a sharpie marker, mark the metal shaft near the base to indicate where the center of the flat side is.

When you look at the replacement sheath, you will notice flat sides on the outside of the sheath. If you look inside the sheath, you will see two "nubs", these nubs form a flat inner side of the sheath . Unfortunately these nubs do NOT line up with the flat outside sections. Use a sharpie marker to mark the center point of the two inner nubs. The inner flat side HAS to match up perfectly with the flat side of the shaft. The marker helps you do that. Line the inner flat side of the sheath up with the flat side of the metal shaft and push the sheath on your hand as far as it will go. It should go about an inch from the base. Put the base on a mat on the floor ( you don't want to damage your floor) . Next you will need a hammer, piece of 2x4 wood and BRUTE STRENGHT! - Please note that once you hammer this, even just one strike and the sheath will NOT come off. Put the 2" side of the wood against the top of the sheath. Using more force than you think you should need - strike the wood to hammer the sheath all the way down. It should take 3 - 5 very hard strikes. If the base of the sheath rubs on the bottom of your workbowl - they will fuse together, so be sure the sheath is seated as far down as you can get it. Again, it takes a LOT

I have a DLC 7 pro circa 1982 - just replaced the sheath. First - remove old sheath - I found that using a plumbers pipe cutter to cut old sheath off in sections then pulling each section off with pliers works great. Make sure ALL the plastic comes off the metal shaft - as well as the brass ring portion of the sheath.

Next use a sharpie marker to mark the the "flat" side of the shealth = you must look inside the sheath, find the 2 "nubs" that form a "flat" side. These nubs must line up perfectly with the flat side of the shaft - mark the base of the shaft as well so you can more easily line up the flat of the sheath with the flat side of the shaft (and no, the flat outer sides of the the sheath do not match up with the flat inside section of the sheath - that would make life too easy!)

Press the new sheath on with your hand as far as it goes - should go down to about 1 inch from the base.

Now you need a hammer, piece of 2 x4 wood and brute strenght! (keep in mind that once you hammer it - even once - it will NOT come off) Put the 2" side of the wood against the top of the sheath - Use a LOT of force to hammer the sheath all the way down. will probably take 3 - 5 good strikes. It will take much more force than you think you should need to use. Make sure the base of shaft is as far down as possible - if it rubs against the workbowl while spinning it will fuse to the bowl! Good luck! -

firstly check the safety device which is where the lid goes on and if this appears to work then bin it and buy a new one as the motor has burnt out ,these machines can be bought for around 30 euros from the supermarket ,they are held together with these fance screws that require special toold to dismantle and a kit of these tool bits can set you back a good 20 euros if you can find them so at the end of the day is worth it to try to strip and change the motor .

I do believe those kind have a special locking mechanism. In other words, you have to be sure the bowl, the blade, and the top are all correctly positioned, and locked on, before it will start running.

Many people have had this problem. When I called Cuisinart, they said, oh sure we will send you the part and instructions. When I called because there were no instructions, I got another story about how I needed to send it back because that repair is only made at the warehouse. I have found other places online where people just chip and pick at the plastic until it comes off. Short of sending it back and paying the shipping I don't know what else to say. My husband is chipping and picking as we speak.

If it is old enough you may have burnt up the motor. I don't know that the older FP's are designed for mixing dough.

it is either the seal around the blade shaft that is worn (but if it is worn so much that liquids can leak, then you probably heard the machine vibrate more than normal or sound screechy). Or it is the gasket at the bottom of the container that is not seated well or is out of shape. Goodluck, Macgivor

The mechanical parts will ALWAYS outlast the plastic parts. If you call Cuisinart, they will give you the price for the replacement parts that you need. If you find the price unacceptable, you can take your chances buying the parts cheaply off of eBay, but beware - the seller may be selling parts that have the exact same damage that yours has.