Briggs & Stratton Briggs Stratton Intek V - Twin Vertical Ohv Engine with Electric Start 22 Hp, 1" X 3 5/32" Shaft, ModelNo. 44K777 - 0027 - E1 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Replace the fuel lines. I had the same problem with one of my riders. The inside of the fuel lines had rotted and they were collapsing when they tried to suck the gas through them. New lines and it ran all day!

Question edited for a lot more clarity and add maker. Question moved from Cars and Trucks. Running lean. Bad Gasoline and clean the carburetor.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yKFAmfeaycs

Question edited for clarity. Question moved from Hewlett Packard Computers It sounds like you have excessive bore wear and / or broken piston rings and that is causing exhaust gasses to go past the pistons.

carb carb carb rebuild rebuild rebuild but as always check spark and compressin on both sides if you only have spark on one side it will sound fine untill under load

Not familiar with this model, but this is exactly how the smaller ones behave when the carburetor diaphragm is shot. Larger engines usually have a float system with needle and seat in which case the problem is either a leaking needle/seat assembly or saturated float.

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to a Briggs and Stratton category. Check ignition timing. Check / replace Spark Plug and check lead condition. Clean carburettor. Lots of help in the videos https://www.google.com/search?q=Briggs+%26+Stratton+28S777+hard+to+start ..

should be a metering screw for the carb that goes in and out for idle adjust.

Are you sure both magnetos are good? did you try swithing them to see if it reverts to the other cylinder. If that's not it I'd expect a stuck valve,or the adjustment came loose. Take valve cover off and make sure both are moving..

i own a shop and i see no one gave you the right answer 114 is the right and 111 is the left come on guys be help full give clear answers for ppl ! hope this helps some one! from second hand diy catch us on youtube!!!

You could check for continuity with an ohm meter, but I don't know what the resistance of a good coil is. BTW. coils almost never go bad.

recharge the battery pull the plug and see if there is any oil in the cylinder fix the oil leaks OR get a new motor 20 hp from e-bay for a good price that just bolts straight in that way you will have a trouble free mower for the price of a new engine remember you got it free and that means that is is not a good proposition to repair

Sounz like the fuel line / filter is partially clogged.

I am assuming you are calling the cylinder the jug on the engine. If you think the engine is leaking oil from the cylinder you have to replace the crankcase. The cylinder does not separate form the crankcase as they do on atvs. If you see the leak at a gasket, it could be a blown head gasket, valve cover gasket or a sump gasket. The sump gasket is the gasket between the crankcase and the sump. The sump is the part of the engine the mounting screws thread into. The valve cover gasket is between the head and the stamped steel cover. Replacing the valve cover gasket is easy. Just remove the four bolts to remove the cover. Then clean the old gasket off. You can apply a thin layer of rtv to help seal the valve cover. The head gasket is between the cylinder and the head of the engine. If this gasket fails, the engine can burn oil and/or leak oil. The head gasket is more involved to replace. You need a set of feeler gauges and a toque wrench to do the repair

Show pic's.

It is not internal to the engine unless that run-away condition is why you initially had to replace the governor gear. Did you get all the springs/rods/throttle cable back where they go ? That's the first thing I would check. I wouldn't tear into the engine for the dots. It's not timing. They go together as you said. It wouldn't have cranked if they were off. Make the adjustment back to where you started before the run away problem and see if it changes.