Hello,
I have a Goodman Condenser unit on my heat pump thats about 5 years old. Recently I noticed an intermittent buzzing noise coming from my fuse panel and I was able to correlate it to my Heat pump turning on and running. When it first turns on for heating and thereafter at an interval of every 60 seconds it makes an electrical buzzing noise at the condenser unit, this causes a similar noise at my fuse panel. It sounds like an electrical short, but the breaker (40 Amp) never cuts off. I've turned the unit off since it's only used to heat the basement.
What would be causing this? Seems to be very specific to a 60 second timer in the condenser unit.
Any help or advise is appreciated.
Dave B.
It could be your compressor trying to start but not being able to do so. It shouldnt happen that often but in cold temp the overload protector may cycle that quickly. I reccomemnd to have it checked to salvage the expensive compressor.
Posted on Dec 25, 2007
Turned on unit; runs fine for 10-15 minutes, cooling begin immediately - then trips breaker? Fan runs, thermostat works, condensation pump works.
Whats the amp breaker? Is this for the inside unit or the outside condenser? If the inside and gas heat you have a bad fan motor, If its an electric furnace , the same, but if its the outside unit, the fan could be going bad, locking up and the compressor still runs and pulls high ampsand tripps breaker or the compressor is just pulling too many amps due to plugged coils with dirt , grass or weeds blocking airflow.([email protected])
Posted on Jun 09, 2008
Goodman Furnace/AC unit not working 3a fuse blows even after replacement. once thermostat is turned on and clicks to start ac unit the fuse blows
3 amp is standard.the fuse is blowing to protect the transformer.It is telling you that there is a short in the low voltage wiring.Goodman also had an issue with the coil shorting on the contactor.To prevent damage.....i'd call a pro.It should be a fairly simple repair.
Posted on Jul 04, 2008
I replaced my heat pump with a Goodman GSH 130601 inside and outside unit in May 2007. In July 2008 my compressor quit running. Serviceman said compressor was seized or locked and would have to replace. Next day they put a hard start unit on the compressor and it ran. Serviceman said he talked to Goodman and they told him they were having problems with their 5 ton compressors locking up. I was told by a friend, he is a refrigeration tech, the hard start unit is just a band-aid fix. He said I will likely have more compressor problems. I have a 10 year parts and compressor warranty from Goodman but with a $200.00+ service charges I don't want additional problems. Is the hard start unit just a quick fix and could I have more problems with a compressor that has already locked-up? My compressor always made a loud start-up noise from the day it was installed. Now the compressor is making a swishing sound, not from fan, and is even louder on start-up.
Tell them you want a whole new outside system or a new compressor . Around here, the compressor change out should be around 5--$800.00 and the unit change out , around $400.00! OKLAHOMA.
Posted on Sep 07, 2008
we installed a new unit last year, this is our second winter season and although it works fine, about every 45 minutes to an hour we smell a chemical-like smell blowing through the vents while the unit is running. It just started a couple of weeks ago and we can't figure out what is causing it. There are no signs of any leaks, but how do you know for sure? I'm worried we might get sick from it, I have never smelled this before, it smells almost like baking soda or the inside of a cooler. Thank you for any suggestions.
I ran upon this a few years agoafter 20+ years in the industry it is actually called "DIRTY SOCK". In the winter the drain pan and trap dry out and all the junk left behind when the summer rolls around mix with the condensateand cause the odor. "Home owner fix" pour a cup of bleach down the drain and in the pan let sit for about an hour then pour a gallon of hot water, that usually takes care of it.
Posted on May 31, 2009
I have a goodman air conditioning unit (CKJ421AB)which was installed in April of 1999. The outside unit will not turn on. I can here it buzzing when the air conditioning is on inside, the air is blowing fine on the inside of the house, but not cold.
Have you had it looked at by a professional? Sometimes the buzzing noises can be a good indicator of electrical problems. A pro would be able to tell you if it's melted wiring, or a blown fuse or something. You could also look in your owner's manual for a solution. http://www.sullivanservice.com/heating-air-conditioning/new-ac-system
Posted on Mar 24, 2015
I have a Goodman Air Conditioner Model CK49-1B. The fan in the unit does not turn on when the thermostate is set for cooling; the fan in the furnace works and blows warm air. Checking outside I discover that the dog chewed three wires that are coming from the unit.
The repair person told me that the dog shortout the CONTACTOR and had to be replaced it, he also replaced 12 inches of wires damaged by the dog..
He did the job in less than one hour and charged me $225.00. Did he over charge me? Later, I cheked on Parts Shops and the cost for a CONTACTOR B1360321 was $25.00.
He wanted to change the DISCONECT HOSE FOR ANOTHER $180.00. At this point I was not sure and I said not, thank you.
Using the old CONTACTOR, he turned the Thermostat to cool and Air Conditioned started working, but he said that was a short on it and had to be replaced.
Did he over charge me for the this job? This is a company that send coupons on the mail and advertise in the yellow pages.
Take a look on amazon for same parts, and compare the prices: Amazon com goodman air conditioner parts. I hope this was helpful. Cheers
Posted on Dec 17, 2014
I have an E2 error message on my air conditioner. It has stopped working and resetting it doesn't help.
My is west point CSM-TF7616.CB0.after installation and commissioned it displayed E2 on display scene screen on indoor under unit.
Why is givim e3 a new unit?
Posted on Aug 27, 2020
heil outside fan motor 3 wire rd/blk/br new dayton motor 4 wire blk /br /purpule /brown with white strip Need help on wiring
Hi, the new motor takes its own capacitor to run it. This is what the 2- brown wires are for, one will have a white stripe. You will need to but a seperate run capacitor for this motor, a 5 uf, 7.5, or what ever it calls for. they should have told you when you bought the motor. It will have to spade connectors on it where the brown wires connect alone. Use the dual capacitor if that is what you have for the other 220 volt wires.Black and purple will be your 2 hot wires.You can connect either one to the old capacitor on the fan terminal and the other to the load side of the contactor, so when the contactor closes it will energize the motor.Or, take both the black and the purple wires and to the load side ( outlet side ) of the contactor, connect one to one side and the other to the other side. The line side is where your 2 hot wires that connect to the contactor from the incoming wires from the electrical box, you want to be on the other end. I would connect the black to the contactor load side and purple to the old capacitor as long as the old wiring is still on it as it has to be fed by a hot wire from the contactor. Each wire, blk, and purple has to have 120 volts to each one and you can get this a couple of ways. The contactor has several terminals that are not used and if you wire them on the outlet side, they will only be energized when the contactor is closed on a call from the stat, very easy to do. You will have to get a coulple of crimp on connectors to put on the ends of the wires, but the brown ones should already have them for this capacitor. Do not try to put the brown wires on the old run capacitor as you will burn out the new motor! Go get the small run cap for these 2 wires for about $10. I know that you can do this wiring change just remember the blk is hot 120, and purple is hot 120, = 240.volts. If you have removed all of the wires from the old capacitor, then use the contactor to connect to. The compressor wires must stay on the old run cap on the hermetic side and this old cap. must be fed by a hot wire from the contactor to the common terminal, that is marked with a C..If you look at the new motor diagram, it will show you also. Please dont forget to rate me as I know you will be kind, and I will check in on you to see how you are doing. Get this capacitor and it will run. This is a must!! Please keep me posted.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7
A/C, Heating, & Refrigeration Contractor
Posted on Sep 07, 2010
GOODMAN HEATPUMP AC REVERSING VALVE MAKING A VERY LOUD BUZZING NOISE IN AC MODE. AC AND HEAT WORK FINE, NOISE ONLY WHEN AC IS ON AND UNIT NOT RUNNING.
Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly. The reversing valve making noise (probably a 60 cycle noise) is a sign that the reversing valve is not stoking a full stroke to where the armature of the coil is neutralized by the internal plunger moving to the neutral position. Sometimes you can take 2 hammer handles to the BODY of the reversing valve with some careful strikes so as not to DENT the body and loosen up the internal piston so that it strokes fully. If that does not make it snap out of the buzzing routine then the only option is to replace the reversing valve. This will require the system to be drained of coolant, purged, the valve replaced and then the system recharged which does not come cheaply. It is not going to hurt anything buzzing. I know it is irritating and annoying but my thoughts are if you can give it some wooden taps and at least quiet it down some what to leave it alone unless your willing to go though the expense of a full system drain & service + a service call with a reversing valve change.
Here is the worst that can happen.... the solenoid on the reversing valve gets hot from not fully stroking and fails at which point you get the new reversing valve installed.
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly
Posted on May 20, 2011
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