Goodman CLQ36AR49 Air Conditioner - Page 9 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Turn your fan from auto to on at thermostat, fan should come on. If
you still get the (AC) and fan does not come on, change the batteries at the thermostat if they have them..

To see if thermostat is bad, do this.
1) Turn power off to Furnace/AirHandler.
2) Remve Bowler Door and find where thermostat wires connect to control board. Remove wires and write down which terminal they go
to.

3)Take a wire and hook-up between R and Y. Put door back on, turn power on. Fan should come on and AC should come on.

your best bet is to go to www.goodmanmfg.com make sure you have exact model # of your unit and if there is no help for you there then call the help line that this site gives you.Once you get the list of exactly which parts you need you can get univeral parts or order right from that site i gave you.approx cost about 300.00 hope this helps

If the fan motor on the outside condensing unit is running, but the compressor is not coming on, then yes, most of the time it is just a capacitor. It could also be the compressor has a short or bad valves. If the compressor comes on in the beginning, but shuts off while the fan motor is still running, then you could have a low/high charge, and the unit trips the internal overload switch because it overheats. Hope this helps.

That is not a good sign, Disconnect the fan and secure the wires, if
it still trips the breaker the compressor is grounded

You need to check that tour filters are new. Then check that air is coming from the vents and is at least 15 degrees cooler than room temp. If no air coil is frozen, or blower motor and run cap are not working. If frozen than turn system to off and fan switch is on until you feel air through vents.
You'll need to make sure the outside unit is runing and the larger copper line is cold like a can soda. If it's cold but is freezing up, it needs to have a charge added. If its running but not cold and the fan is not running or the compressor isn't running it could have a blown capacitor. If its not running at all check. the circuit breakers and reset them. And a good idea to keep the outside unit washed with water,and that it is clear of weeds and stuff.

If it is a electric air handler and you see a double pole breaker switch it is most likely 220/240v

It appears from what you say that both the indoor fan and the outdoor fan must be running. If so, you must check the compressor to see if it is running. It probably is not, but if it is, you are probably totally out of refrigerant due to a leak maybe.

Let the unit run for a couple of minutes and then feel the copper lines that are leaving the outside unit. The big one should be quite cold probably to the point of sweating. The little one should be warm.

You have a clogged condensate trap and or line

I suspect the sequencer is stuck. However, you may have a thermostat problem or a short in the 24V. If it is a heat pump then likely the reversing valve is not kicking in. There can be numerous causes for this and you should probably call a pro in for this one. Diagnosis is not such a simple thing.

There is an access panels on some package units. If you cant find the access panel then remove the top. I use a garden house. Make sure to kill the power to the unit before servicing.

try putting in a new thermostat.

call the install company back out. along with the new heat pump i wouls say they installed a leak. you stated r12 i assume you ment r22 if they installed an r22 unit and didnt change the a coil it might not be their work leaking but the a coil might be. at any rate once you have them fix it i would look for a new service company i would never install an r22 system any more the EPA is phasing it out and the replacment in my opion is beter

There could be a number of problems why. Some would include:
Faulty thermostat-
Test by pulling of the cover and jumping the R terminal to the Y terminal and if it works then, you have a faulty thermostat.

Faulty capacitor-
This is located on the outside unit in the electrical compartment. It is a round or oval shaped cap with wires coming from the top and can only be checked if you have a multimeter that has MicroFarads available. If so, you pull the wires off (remembering exactly how they were hooked up) and put your test leads to the Herm and Com terminals and get your reading. Then you look at the label and see if your numbers match up. IMPORTANT: Disconnect the line voltage before opening the electrical compartment on the condenser!

Faulty Electrical Board-
Located on the inside unit, most models have boards that will give you a code with a flashing LED light now. The code list is usually on the back of the furnace doors. If you dont have a board at all, then the furnace is an older model and the trouble-shooting could get a little more difficult. If it has the board, try locating a fuse on the board and checking if its blown, if it is, replace and see if thats the only problem.

These are just a few things that you can check. I hope it helps somewhat. Good Luck!

Hi,
There can be a couple of things that could be happening...
The first and easiest thing is to check the air filter. Make sure that it is clean... clean it or replace it. Next check the air vents to make sure that they are open and giving you good air flow...
Also check to make sure that you are not icing up on the indoor coil... ice will tell you that you are low on refrigerant. You also could be low and not be icing over, but you would need to have gauges on the unit to check that.
Finally check and clean the outdoor coil...this also can give you problems if the heat is not being removed from the outdoor unit efficiently...
You may also have a unit that is sized in such a way that it hits the balance point at about 85...that means that your heat gain is equal to the capacity of the unit...I often try to size them for about that here in Northern PA. because wqhen seldom get hotter then that and the unit then is much more effective at removeing humidity at lower temperatures...

You can also check out the tips that I have wrote about Air conditioning trouble shooting and maintenance...

Here is one about cleaning the condenser coil and at the bottom of that one are links to others..

Condenser Coil Cleaning Condenser Coil Cleaner

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3850183-condenser_coil_cleaning_condenser_coil

heatman101

Did you replace the capacitor as well? If you replaced
only the indoor motor that does not have any bearing
to your original problem. If you replaced the outdoor condensor fan and not the capacitor, it could be that the capacitor is to weak to handle the motor and compressor.

You should be able to hear the compressor try to
turn on and the insulated suction line should be cold
with warm air discharging out of the top

Have you checked If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Is the indoor unit operating? If no turn the fan from auto to on at thermostat. If the fan comes on, that is a sign that you have 24volts
present on thermostat side.

Turn AC unit off outside,turn the thermostat as low as it will go. Open the electrical panel to the outdoor unit. There is a contactor located in the unit, push the plastic bar in the middle of contactor. If it pushes
in, you have low voltage wiring problem from the outdoor unit to the
indoor unit.

If you are skilled or know somebody that is with electrical, turn the power back on to the outdoor unit take a non conductive object and
push the contactor in, the unit may start. If it doesnt start,check the
breaker for the ac unit to make sure it is not tripped.

If the breaker is not tripped and the condensor fan comes on and the
compressor does not come on and the breaker does not trip, then it
is very possible that you will need a new capacitor and while you are
at it put in a hard start kit.

This unit according to you, still should have 2 years left on the compressor warranty.

If the compressor is running that rules out the contactor and ciruit breakers. You should check the fan capacitor and the fan motor if the capacitor is good.

start winding going bad or capisitor, either can cause high amp draw and over heat the motor

fan motor , indoor circut board or thermostat