Goodman CLQ36AR49 Air Conditioner - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues
Fan on outside unit spins counter clockwise
air should be coming out of the top. It will work either way. If your fan is reversible it will have a sticker on the side explaining how to reverse it and it will have exttra wires plugged into each other right at the motor. good luck
8/11/2011 12:37:30 PM •
Goodman...
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Answered
on Aug 11, 2011
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305 views
Hi I have a goodman it wont turn on , the only
check voltage at the contactor (coil) when the thermostat calls for cooling and see if you still get 28vac; if you do, it has to be a bad contactor coil, if not, which i suspect, you either have a short in the thermostat wire going to the contactor coil or a faulty control transformer; check for loose or broken wires
8/9/2010 9:03:51 PM •
Goodman...
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Answered
on Aug 09, 2010
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235 views
I just had a new Goodman 13 seer installed on
CALL AN EXPERT......THE WIRES AT THE CONDENSER ARE NOT CONNECTED PROPERLY.THE UNIT SHOULD HAVE BEEN VACUUMED/PUMP DOWN BEFORE STARTING UP .POSSIBLE LOW ON REFRIGERANT ALSO.
8/8/2010 8:07:59 PM •
Goodman...
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Answered
on Aug 08, 2010
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151 views
Fan won't start. I turn my thermostat down and the
Hello my name is Heath it will be my pleasure to assist you. The first thing to do is check the capacitor for the fan look at it and see if it is swollen or pitted. If the capacitor is okay then the fan motor may have gone bad.
8/7/2010 9:12:59 PM •
Goodman...
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Answered
on Aug 07, 2010
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106 views
Fan won't Start. I turn
It is possible that your fan motor is burnt up, but I would say about 75% of the time, its the capacitor. The capacitor is the round or oval component that is inside the electrical compartment. To check this visually, if its bubbled up at the top then its bad, if there are no signs visually, then you will need a multi-meter to check the mfds on the cap. If you have one that is available, set it to the mfd setting, pull the wires off of the capacitor, place your leads to two of the terminals, and read what your meter says. Compare it to the rating on the side of your capacitor. It should say something like 25mfd or 25/5%. They vary in sizes. If it's below 5 mfds than what its rated, it needs to be replaced. You can pick these up at a local A/C supply house without being licensed. You will need the information from the old one including the voltage. Best bet is to bring it with you though. The best way to check the fan motor is to try and turn the blades, if there is any resistance, than it needs to be replaced, but there are times when the motor can turn freely and still be burnt up. Just a few things to try out anyways. Make sure you disconnect all the electrical before doing any trouble-shooting and the capacitor stores electricity so ground out all the terminals on the capacitor as soon as possible. Hope this helps and good luck!
8/4/2010 4:45:49 AM •
Goodman...
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Answered
on Aug 04, 2010
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83 views
No cold air
Check to ensure the outdoor unit is running. If it is running, have it checked as there may be a problem. If it is not running, check your breakers first and move on from there.
Also, check all filters and ensure the unit is not frozen up anywhere as this will negatively affect its performance as well.
8/1/2010 4:48:23 AM •
Goodman...
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Answered
on Aug 01, 2010
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89 views
Outside fan want start by itself and tries to do mo
Sounds like your condenser (outside fan) is inoperative.
It is essential that you make sure this motor is operating as it should. I would look on the motor for a place to 'oil the bearings,' (if you are lucky yours will have oil ports where you can oil them) but most new motors (these days) do not have these (oil ports) - however - if you are fairly adept at mechanical stuff - you can read my 'tip' on - "how to oil a motor when there is no place to oil it," and possibly get it to running properly again.
If you are unable to do so (by oiling the bearings) - you only recourse is to replace it. Again, if you are so inclined - replacing a condenser motor is not that difficult. The most important thing is to get the exact motor to replace it with. I would try to find someone - a friend or relative that is knowledgeable in Air Conditioners - to look at your unit and who wouldn't mind picking up what you need at a Air Conditioning Supply house for a wholesale price.
If you can't do that - then you will have to take your motor off - be sure all power is off before you remove it - and be sure you mark all the wires 'exactly' so that you can wire up the new motor. Note: the most difficult part of removing the motor will likely be getting the fan blade off the shaft of the motor - so if it's really rusty/dirty looking/or even if it isn't - I would first remove the set screw holding the hub on the shaft - and really 'spray the hub of the blade/shaft of the motor' with WD-40 - really good - trying to get the WD 40 on as much on the shaft as possible - fill up the hole where the screw was - soak it well and let it sit for awhile - preferably several hours. After letting it sit - use a hammer to "tap" it (lightly/medium hard) to loosen the shaft on the hub - and take a wrench (crescent wrench) and turn the shaft - it shouldn't be a problem to get off.
After removing the motor- Note: I would also replace the capaciter (the little gray/silver component that is attached (by wires) to the motor) and marking the wires - you will need to take both motor and capaciter to an Air Conditioning Supply house (that sells to the public) and buy 'exact' replacements. Note: it's possible though not likely that the capaciter could be causing the motor not to run (after oiling the bearings) - but unless the capaciter is bulged - I would figure it's good and not causing the problem - although I would still put a new one on - with a new motor. If you suspect the capaciter is bad for whatever reason or just want to try it - you can always replace it with a new one and see what happens.
Note: you will probably be charged 'retail' instead of 'wholesale' - for the motor and capaciter - but the price difference shouldn't be that much - I would estimate no more than $125 for the motor and capaciter. Be sure when you put the new motor/capaciter back on the unit - that all power is off - and that you put motor and capaciter back on exactly the way the old ones were. Be sure you note the "position" of the blade on the shaft of the old motor and position the blade on the new motor in the approximate same place.
If you prefer to have a Service Tech do this - you're looking at a Repair bill of around $375 and up - and bear in mind - whether you do it yourself or have someone do it for you - "there may be another problem" going on with your unit, i.e. low on charge or something, so as so often happens in life - your 'best and cheapest' way out may be to call a Service Tech from the git-go.
hope this is helpful
good luck!
7/30/2010 10:45:53 AM •
Goodman...
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Answered
on Jul 30, 2010
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216 views
3 ton unit compressor dont wnat to start
there is a capacitor connected to the compressor and one connected to the fan ... the capacitors are used to start both (called starting capacitor) ...if its bad then the compressor/fan may buz but not start ..it will kick out once it gets hot .. that thermal cutout will reset when it cools down ... the capacitor may be a dual unit .. that is, two capacitors in one case (one for fan, one for compressor) ... you could have a frozen compressor or bad bearings in the fan but typically its just the capacitor thats bad (make sure the fan turns freely) ... follow wires coming out of the compressor and fan .. some will go to the capacitor ...thats a metal part (usually a rounded rectangular shape about 4 inches) .. the 3 or 4 wires just plug into the capacitor .. replace with the same value (microfarads and voltage) or get an exact replacement using its part number ... mark what wires go where .. make sure power is off befor servicing ..
7/25/2010 12:15:39 PM •
Goodman...
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Answered
on Jul 25, 2010
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239 views
I have a two year old central goodman air
Hi, the repairman did check the freon pressures? You should have a T D of 18 to 25 degrees F. at the supply and return air vents for it to be right. This is a 3 ton unit. Yes, if it were low, you would have ice forming on the evaporator coil. He should have been able to give you the correct answer when he installed his gauges telling what the internal pressures and system was going on. You may have a restricted txv, but he would have known this. If you paid for a service call, and they didn't know the answer, call them back out to make it right. I would have to know the readings to give you the right answer. It sounds to me that the superheat is off, but I don't know as I am not on site. Please, call them back until they find the problem, no charge to you either!! T D is the temperature difference between the supply and return air. Please keep me posed on this. Even though this unit is only 2 years old, this also could be faulty valves or a valve plate in the compressor causing it not to pump like it should. They need to send a different tech out to find out the problem for you. I wish I were on site, I could give you more, but someone is guessing??
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7
A/C, Heating, & Refrigeration Contractor
PS, your coil needs to be at 38 to 40 degrees f.
7/25/2010 3:38:44 AM •
Goodman...
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Answered
on Jul 25, 2010
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151 views
Not cooling as it should
If you have a crushed, kinked, or otherwise restricted fitting in the system, it's possible the cooling may be affected. Pressure readings can be thrown off, and refrigerant flow can be inhibited.
Since the unit is new, you should have a complete parts and labor warranty, so ask the installer what the reason is that the system doesn't provide the cooling you were probably promised when they sold it to you. They should have taken into account the location of the condensing unit, the size and insulation in your house, indoor and outdoor conditions, your geography/climate, and any other load factors before selling you the system.
9/11/2010 1:50:52 PM •
Goodman...
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Answered
on Sep 11, 2010
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350 views
I need help with a buzzing sound in my air conditioner.
It is probably the compressor humming. They can make some funny noises especially on start for a while. If the unit is not cooling it may be the start capacitor or the comressor may be locked up.
7/19/2010 11:27:00 PM •
Goodman...
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Answered
on Jul 19, 2010
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1,329 views
My central want come on inside or out dont even buss
Check all the circuit breakers first. Next, move the fan switch at the thermostat from auto to run. If the unit has power the fan should run. If it doesn't then start by checking the 24vac transformer. Let me know what you find.
7/18/2010 10:30:03 AM •
Goodman...
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Answered
on Jul 18, 2010
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120 views
High head -suction 75 head 325.
thats high head try cleaning the cond coil aging, and depending on the out door temp. was any thing changed the fan speed is right. or the unit is over charged.
7/18/2010 2:42:00 AM •
Goodman...
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Answered
on Jul 18, 2010
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76 views
Ive installed a new capacitor on my 3ton unit,now
A cap for just the comp, one wire form the contactor to the cap and the other wire to the comp, there should be a wire diagram. if it is for the fan and comp it will be lable fan,com,comp. one wire3 from the contwctor to common, the fan wires one to common and on to the fan side. The last on for the comp
7/18/2010 2:21:04 AM •
Goodman...
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Answered
on Jul 18, 2010
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117 views
High low fan motor
Your main concern is the temperature difference across the indoor coil for both heating and cooling. When you turn your thermostat from auto to on, you are on high speed.
If you have long duct runs and little return air registers then high speed
would help cool the house better. However in the heating mode, you
could lose up to 10degrees by having the high speed setting.
What they installed is sized for your house and the speeds should not have to be changed unless the ductwork is not sized right for the house.
Cooling should be High-Black wire.
Heating should be Low-Red Wire.
400cfm equals a ton of cooling= 1200 sq. foot, For cooling you need
High speed. For heating it is whatever the temperature rise across the
coil is, which is located on the furnace/air handler.
7/14/2010 2:17:45 AM •
Goodman...
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Answered
on Jul 14, 2010
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279 views
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