Top 20 Goodman CLQ36AR49 Air Conditioner Questions & Answers

I never heard of something like that before.

There is no reset button.

The most common reasons for water leaking from the unit are:
1- Condensate drain line clogged, needs cleared.
2- System is freezing up, causing excessive water to overflow, check filter, fan motor, thermostat, and batteries.
If there is ice on the lines on the indoor or outdoor unit, the system is frozen. If it's a charging issue, make sure system is thawed completely before calling anyone. They will not be able to do anything until system is thawed out and will cause you to wait longer.

If your description is in a few minutes, It sounds like a loose wire. If it is the outside fan motor to which you were referring, it should have 3 wires. Find those 3 wires and trace them back to the control board and main contactor. check the condition of any connections and the condition of the insulation. Next, If it is the blower motor, do the same thing. It also sounds like it could be the control wiring. The blower control wire is the green wire coming from the thermostat and going to the fan control board in the air handler. If you have a loose connnection in the thermostat and/or loose connnection for some splice in that wire, it could interrupt the control power to the blower motor and cause it to cycle. If it is the condensing fan on the condensing unit, it is the yellow wire. Check the same criteria as green wire above. As far as the last of your inquiry, the air conditioner reaches temperature then turns off is normal and is not part of the problem your having. The only other thing I can think of without more information, If the condensing unit comes on and shortly later turns off, the question is whether the condensing fan comes on when the compressor turns on. I had a case today, both the outdoor fan and compressor would not run, but the main contactor was pulled in, and voltage was available. It turns out the dual capacitor was bad and the condensing fan had stopped running and the compressor was cycling on the inherent motor protection inside the compressor. Inside the compressor is a bimetallic overtemperature switch that helps protect the compressor from getting to hot. This is your probable cause and can be determined by checking the temperature of the condensing fan motor and the temperature of the compressor. If both are so hot your hand gets burned, you probably need an new capacitor and outdoor fan motor. If the compressor cools by turning it off, the inherent motor protection will reset if it has not burned out. If after deenergizing the compressor cool off and will not reset, the compressor will have to be changed. Hope this helps.

you need to replace your condensing fan motor. the noise you are hearing is the compressor working against a lot of pressure because the heat is building up in you condensing unit. Prolonged operation without an operating condensing fan motor will cause your compressor to burn up, and then you will have the cost of a compressor changeout to the cost of a condensing fan motor.

http://www.dnmech.com/lit/good_ckj_ss213s.pdf This has CKJ48-1a. That may work.

sounds like chattering coming from the contactor replace it and your buzzing will go away.

You need to check to see if you have 24 volt signal from thermostat to your reversing valve. To go into cooling mode the reversing valve needs to be energized. Orange is normal color of the reversing valve power supply. On your unit will be a reversing valve which looks like a pipe with 3 pipes attached to one side and 1 pipe attached to the other side. On the side of the the reversing valve will be a coil with a 2 wire connection. This coil needs 24 volts applied to shift unit into cooling mode. In your thermostat wire bundle where it is connected, check for voltage between common and the orange wire. If it does not have 24 volts with the thermostat in cooling mode, you have a break in the line normally a connection on the orange junction inside your air handler or your thermostat orange wire is loose. Keep checking for 24 volts available until you find the source of the loss. If you have 24 volts at the reversing valve, you can check to see if the valve is working by unplugging the 2wire connection on the side of the valve, if it clicks its powered if not and 24 volts available then the coil needs replaced. Any more than this you will need a professional tech to troubleshoot and fix. Hope this helps.

check your high low pressure control

What part

need to get it checked , it could be the capacitor for the compressor or the fan but if left to long will cause compressor burn out .capacitor should only cost a few bucks 10-20 dollar part just a guess from here but much cheaper .

either the inside coil is dirty or system is overcharged.

check stat calibration. see if you can measure temperture at stat. the thermostat cover temperture reading is not that accurate.

You need to to determine the superheat and subcooling to check for the proper operation of your system when the compressor is running. I ran into a case just yesterday, the breaker kept tripping. Unit had the same readings as yours. This one had a subcooling of >25 degrees and 0 degrees superheat indicating unit was overcharged. I took an extra 8 pounds of r22 out of the system. During the investigation I also determined the filter/drier was blocking the refrigerant flow causing the technician to overcharge the unit. To check filter/drier performance all you need to do is measure the upstream and downstream temperature. The difference should be less than 2 degrees. This one was 7 degrees indicating it was metering flow. If your compressor stops operating before determining superheat and subcooling, you can get a professional tech to recover and weigh out the refrigerant in your system. You can look on the nameplate data on the side of the outside unit and see the ounces of refrigerant it is charged. If the compressor is operable go ahead and adjust charge by recovering the excess refrigerant into a recovery container for that refrigerant. Normal superheat and subcooling is normally around 10 - 15 degrees. Hope this helps

Without looking up the specifications for this heat pump, I cannot be certain, but I expect the operation to provide cooling may require more power than when heating. You probably can find the specifications online for this unit. As you probably know, power is measured in watts and is calculated by voltage times current. This also is likely to be 240 volts operation. If you take the specified power on cooling and divide by voltage (240), that will indicate the current in amperage that will be required to start it. Your circuit breaker is set for current and needs to be a higher current than is required. If that is the problem, you can buy circuit breakers at Home Depot or Lowes. You have to remove the front panel of your breaker box and snap out the circuit breaker. To be safe it would be good to turn off the main breaker switch before you open the front panel and remove the circuit breaker for the heat pump. Should your calculation of current required be less than the rating of the circuit breaker, that implies a malfunction of the heat pump in the cooling mode and would require a service call to the local representative of the heat pump manufacturer.

its either a thermostat wire shorting or the coil in outsde contactor going out.

i would suspect the valve on suction side not open. if the other system failed on a burn out you could have a blocked dryer or orfice at coil.

you have to have 240 volts for power. 24 volts to operate cool and heat. thermostat feeds color code white to heat yellow to cool green to fan. think of the thermostat as a light switch. transformer in system feeds common to different controls & usually red to thermostat which is then switched to what it is set for.

clean coil and pan.

high side pressure equalizing across orfice. typically you can't hear it.