20 Most Recent Aeris Max Depth Analog 2 Gauge Console Questions & Answers

Scuba tanks can be filled well past 3200psi. When they do a hydrostatic test it is well beyond any pressure that any dive shop will fill a tank to. The highest I've seen the pressure get in my tank is 4000 and that is when the filler at the dive shop forgot about it.

web site

You may need to take it to an authorized dealer

http://www.diveaeris.com/dealers.asp

or contact aeris directly for support:
http://www.diveaeris.com/contact.html

Pressure gauges are sealed and should not ever get bubbles in them. If there's air in the gauge, there's some possibility the Bourdon tube has a crack in it. You will spend more time dinking around with getting a bubble out and resealing the gauge than the instrument is worth. The pressure gauges on a fill station are industry standard parts and you can buy replacements off the shelf. They're not terribly expensive. Replace it.

Scuba gauges give a diver three very important pieces of information: 1. Time 2. Depth 3. Air Consumption This information enables a diver to stay within safe time and depth limits and avoid running out of air. There are many different devices on the market to help with this, from simple gauges to complex digital consoles. Time If a diver is not using a dive computer to monitor their nitrogen, they dive according to approved dive tables. To use dive tables properly, a diver needs to track their downtime. This can be done with a good dive watch. Two things make a good dive watch: water resistance and a rotating bezel. 1. Water Resistance. Good dive watches are rated to a depth in meters or feet (e.g. 200 feet) or a pressure rating in atmospheres (e.g. 4atm). Even though most divers probably won’t dive below 130 feet (the recreational dive limit), a good dive watch should be rated to 200 feet. Note: There is a difference between “water resistance” and “waterproof”. A “waterproof” watch is what you would wear in the shower, but would probably start leaking at 15-20 feet. 2. Rotating Bezel. A bezel is an adjustable ring on the face of the dive watch with a pointer indicator. At the beginning of a dive, the pointer on the bezel is aligned with the minute hand where it stays though out the dive. At the end of the dive, you compare the difference between the bezel and the minute hand to find out the length of the dive. The bezel should only move “counterclockwise”. It is possible to accidently move the bezel during a dive. Because of this, watchmakers make sure any accidental movement will turn the time in a conservative direction, making the dive longer rather than shorter. Depth Another important part of scuba gauges is a depth gauge. A depth gauge enables a diver to keep track of their depth even if they cannot see the water’s surface. Gauges can be either an analog (needle-and-dial) device or a digital device. Both work in the same way. They measure the surrounding water pressure and convert this into an accurate reading of your depth. Another feature of a good depth gauge is a maximum depth indicator. This tells a diver their maximum during a dive and must be reset after each dive. Air Consumption Another equally important part of scuba gauges is a submersible pressure gauge (SPG). This is connected to the first stage with a high-pressure hose and measures the pressure of the air in the tank. The SPG is much like the gas gauge on a car. At the beginning of a dive, a diver starts with a full tank. This should be about 3000 psi or 200 bars. As the diver breathes during the dive, the gauge will move slowly downwards. This allows the diver to have enough air left in the tank to: 1. Make a slow, safe ascent 2. Make any necessary decompression stops 3. Inflate their BCD once at the surface 4. Breath from the regulator if the surface conditions are rough A submersible pressure gauge also allows a diver to stop diving with air still in the tank. This keeps contaminants from entering the tank due to no air pressure. Wrist Depth Gauge Scuba gauges come in two basic styles. Stand alone gauges or gauge consoles. Stand alone gauges such as a wrist mounted depth gauge or a submersible pressure gauge attached to the first stage of a regulator are great backups when using digital gauges. Gauge consoles allow divers to have all their gauges in one place. Although less easy to read, analog gauges sometimes give slightly more accurate readings than digital gauges, particularly at shallow depth. Submersible Pressure Gauge Choosing Scuba Gauges When choosing scuba gauges, remember to look for: 1. Easy-to-read numbers 2. Luminescent dial or back lighting options 3. Rotating/swivel mounting 4. Easy disassembly for cleaning or replacing parts 5. Good warranty

"It's probably sand, rinse it well in strong running water and it should be fine. I had a compass once get sand lodged in it and prevent it's rotation, a strong rinse fixed it. Sand can only get where water travels, so if sand got there you can rinse it out with water."

"A diver relies on scuba gauges to know three things: 1.-Depth 2.-Air Consumption 3.-Time Depth and Time are vital for nitrogen and air management. A scuba diver needs to know how deep he has been and for how long in order to judge the necessity and length of decompression stops and to calculate residual nitrogen for repetitive dives. The time of a dive is easily tracked using a scuba diving watch and the depth is tracked using a depth gauge. "

"A diver relies on scuba gauges to know three things: 1.-Depth 2.-Air Consumption 3.-Time Depth and Time are vital for nitrogen and air management. A scuba diver needs to know how deep he has been and for how long in order to judge the necessity a

"It's probably sand, rinse it well in strong running water and it should be fine. I had a compass once get sand lodged in it and prevent it's rotation, a strong rinse fixed it. Sand can only get where water travels, so if sand got there you can rins

ask them maker for that or google all week, get lucky?

Make and model may help you get an answer.

Try to spray the commercial available mist to lower surface tension in order to avoid build-up of condensed water

it depends on the quality of the mask and it depends on how you stored it (if you leaved it at sunlight, if you washed it thoroughly after using it in the sea...) i have a mid quality mask Mares mask, i have been using about 20 times for snorkeling, then i used it to take diving certifications in pool, then i used it for about other 20 dives in the sea... i always stored it in a dark bag (the mask is now about 8 years old) you can check if you mask is still in good shape, and the silicone has not worn out, in this simple way: just put the mask on your face without straps.. remove all the air inside the mask by inhaling with your nose.. then look at your feet (keep inhaling): if the mask remains on your face you can keep using it

You need to consult with a factory technician. Your life depends on these devices. I am certified in USD Survivair and no one can set those after a rebuild kit without special tools and measuring devices.

They have eight legs and are Cephalopods. http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CCYQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fen.wikipedia.org%2Fwiki%2FCephalopod&ei=EB0FVaWtI8zLsAT30IE4&usg=AFQjCNETlGDK7Bi6L4BhBnDiJq2tqVBCQw&bvm=bv.88198703,d.cWc

Yes...the octopus does exist.

I would say no. The water in the pipe that is above sea level will drop back in the pipe until it reaches sea level. Provided neither end of the pipe whether above or below the sea is blocked the level in the pipe will always find natural sea level so it wont be higher or lower than sea level. So in answer to your question No it wont pour out.

Please see Page 28 of the manual http://ns.suunto.com/Manuals/Companion/Usermanual/Companion_usermanual_EN.pdf

Most scuba stores can provide you with the glue.

I noticed another FixYa guru here answered a question on another strand that applies to yours: Also, please note this person on FB claims to be the Lemax fix-all guru. You can ask them more specific questions:http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:0YBPB3sM28kJ:https://www.facebook.com/eHobbyTools%3Ffilter%3D2+&cd=10&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us The Knex website has building help for this problem. There answer is as follows: Make sure all rods and connectors are fully hooked together, especially the blue and gray connectors. Even one peice not fully hooked together can twist the model just enough to jam the gears. (You may have it hooked together correctly prior to jam problems so it is good to check since I found a loose on holding the motor.) The chain links need to all be attached in the same direction, and fully hooked. The chain also needs to be on the tower with the hooks facing down and in as the chain runs on the outside of the tower. (Chain should be outside on the front and inside in the back with the 5 yellow bar side in the front.) Check that all gears are positioned correctly according to the instructions and the teeth facing the correct way. If you are still unable to get the seat to drop, you may remove the top yellow cross rod that the chain runs over - the model will also work with this piece removed. I did all of these steps with my son and his still had trouble dropping all the time. It still seems light so the seat didn't have enough weight to drop with gravity during the non-moving cycle of the orange half gear. We decided to tape on 2 marble passengers to see if that helped. It did!!! When searching for other solutions, I noticed a UTube video that added people also so this seems to be a common solution. Try it or some other light weight added and see if it solves your problem.