20 Most Recent KitchenAid Artisan 5KES100 Espresso Maker - red Questions & Answers

Check the elements, there are 2 on the steam boiler, if 1 is open then that stops them. If your boiler comes complete that's fine, if you just get the element part then you must replace all the seals. I replace the seals on a new boiler anyway, originals are silicone and I upgrade to viton seals. Large one at the bottom, 3 small ones on side of base and one finger sized one at top steam pipe. Check switches for operation, sometimes they stick, if CRC does not fix them then replace. Make sure steam tap shuts off properly. The group head seal goes hard over time, replace while you are working on it if it is. Check thermostat has continuity when cold, on the side at the back of the boiler.

The pump probably has air in it, open the steam valve and pump it through.

Isopropol Alcohol is the wrong product for that issue. It is a pure alcohol solvent. I have two ideas, and the smell is probably from having water sitting in it an eventually drying out and fusing to limescale. I descale my machine every 6 months. I use CLR. https://www.google.com/search?q=kitchenaid+coffee+machine+descale CLR https://www.google.com/search?q=clr+coffee+maker The other product you might try is 5% Hydrogen Peroxide which is a non toxic, organic bleach. https://www.google.com/search?q=hydrogen+peroxide+to+clean+coffee+maker ..

The "percollator" column has become dislodged from the heating element. You may be able to see the tube in the water tank and move it back over the heating element. If you can't understand this info, then it is not for you to do it yourself.

You will need to investigate the reason that it's not heating. Check the element and the thermal fuse that should be on the element for continuity. If the fuse has failed replace it and try it again. If the element has failed you may be looking at buying a new coffeemaker.

Probably the device has calcium built up in it. Do a proper flushing round of at least 500ML (around 15 flushings) or do the "Decalcify" program with the needed tablet for the machine.

Either the scale has not been removed or the sensing circuit has failed. From Kitchenaid, signs a coffee maker needs cleaned; 1, Cleaning indicator light comes on (select models) 2. Excessive brew times 3. Gurgling or other unusual noises during the brew cycle. So ignoring first condition, does it exhibit either of the remaining two? If yes, then likely remaining scale. Try letting descaling agent set, up to max period stated by mfg, then start clean cycle. If no, possible sense failure.

Leaking water from bottom of unit during brewing:

• Verify that the water is leaking from the bottom of the coffee maker and not just running down the back during filling and pooling underneath. (Look under coffee maker - without lifting - to see if water droplets are hanging from bottom of unit)

Resolution: If verified that water is leaking from bottom of coffee maker Contact Us for further assistance. https://www.kitchenaid.com/service-and-support.html

There is a blockage in the drip tray or inside the cavity where your coffee goes, give it a good clean out

You don't say if there is any water flowing along with the loud noise. If there is none then my suggestion would be that it's a dry water pump so you will need to force some water up the clear pickup tube into the pump while it's making that loud noise. The pump valves will be dry.

Shame we don't know what model you are talking about.

You will need to test for where the power stops & check the fuses on each boiler for continuity. If you find any blown then replace the thermostat on that boiler along with the fuses. The thermostats are different rating for each boiler, don't mix them up. It's highly unusual for both boilers to fail at the same time. Occasionally one of the boiler elements can fail, there are 2 elements on each boiler, check them for continuity. If you have any boiler leaks then replace all the seals on that boiler, the steam one is the one most likely to leak. Buy your own seals using the old ones as samples from someone specialising in O ring supply. There are 5 seals on each boiler. Do not purchase rubber or silicone seals, only use Viton seals, they are high temperature.

You need to replace the boiler top that includes the elements. When one element has failed the other one stops as well if it is included in the circuit, it's the same as having a broken wire.

Test each element for the correct resistance. Check the thermal fuses for a circuit, they are held onto the top of the boiler with a screw down bracket. Check for a circuit through the thermostat.