20 Most Recent Kenmore 52642 / 52644 / 52649 Side by Side Refrigerator Questions & Answers

The heat in door frame is normal but undetectable when ref at normal temp. Definitely cooling problem. Google ref not cold enough to get help to solve problem. Never use any oil for it will not help also health problem if not approved to be used around food. Fan motor must be replaced for it will just keep stopping.

most 3 in 1s come with a diagram. as for the factory style you can order a new relay and capacitor from Sears or on the web.

Here is where the confusion begins. When Kenmore says their model number, it is different than OEM numbers or original equipment manufacture's number's. Here is the deal with Sears when it comes to their model numbers. Sears buys all their products from someone else like Whirlpool, Maytag, GE and the list goes on and on. Then Sears calls their model number Kenmore Model Number=> Kenmore Model Number Locator's and the first three numbers are the models maker or who originally made the appliance Click Here for examples=> Kenmore Appliance Model Number Prefix's or Click=> Here once you have the correct Kenmore Model Number once you have that then you can find the parts for your dispenser. Your number will look like this for example only 363.235698 then go to Parts Direct or Repair Clinic and enter the correct Kenmore appliance model number and then search dispenser parts for that model numbers parts number. Hope I made this simple enough so if you need assistance I will be here to help you find that one small part you are searching for, Thanks, for understanding, Sea Breeze Once you find that 363.235698 example you will be well on your way!

Good day,
The best way to deal with it is a step by step procedure. It will get you there. The freezer must be at normal temperature for the ice maker to activate.

First step is to take a small paper cup of water and fill the cavity until it is near full. With the ice maker turned on, close freezer door and wait 3 hours to see if it harvests. If not, the ice maker is bad, and must be replaced. If the cubes harvest then.......
Three possibilities.
1. The water supply from the house is not delivering water to the water valve. Shut off the house at the meter, disconnect the line going to the water valve, and with the line pointed into a bucket, have someone turn the valve back on for a 15 second count. The water should come out smartly. If not, the line and it's fittings will have to be replaced.
2. The fill tube from the back of the machine that feeds water into the back of the ice maker is frozen up. You will have to remove the ice maker to visually inspect that tube. If blocked, it needs to be defrosted, but use caution. Too much heat too fast will start to melt plastic and vinyl parts you don't want melted.
If this is the case, then once cleaned out, you will have to change the water valve located in the back bottom rear of the machine because it is leaking during the off cycle.
3. If everything checks O.K. up to this point, you will have to purchase and install a new water valve, and install it.
P.S. Under very rare occasions the electric circuity in the ice maker will fail to send a signal to the water valve. Although rare, it can happen, in which case the best option is to replace the ice maker and water valve.

Thank you. The part number you need is 240383703 at $146.18 thru Sears and is the control for the refrigerator not the freezer. The refrigerator control operates the opening and closing of the damper door which lets air pass from the freezer to the fresh food. The control is keeping the door open longer than it should. Hope this helps. Worth the repair and has been one of the most common problems with this model.

Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. In a self-defrosting freezer, poor cooling often results from a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. To access these coils you need to remove panel inside the freezer. If there is any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, ceiling, or floor it’s sign of frost build-up and it means a problem with the self-defrosting system.

Freezers should self-defrost three to four times in 24 hours. In case a component in the self-defrosting system fails, the freezer continues to try to cool, instead. Eventually, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There is some cooling as the coils are frozen. But with no air flow over the coils, the cooling is quite limited and the freezer isn't cold as normally it should be.

To check the de frosting system problem, you need to remove all of the perishable food from the freezer, turn the thermostat to off, leave the door open for 24 to 48 hours to "manually" defrost the freezer. After the frost and ice build-up is completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If it is cooling properly, it indicates a problem with one of these components in the self-defrosting system:

• The defrost timer – To test this, manually advance the defrost cycle. The unit should advance itself out of the defrost cycle in about 45 minutes.
• The defrost thermostat – This allows current to pass through it at temperatures of 20 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit and prevents current from passing through it at 40 to 60 degrees. This is difficult to test, though, because it takes a prolonged, very-cold temperature to turn it on.
• The defrost heater – You can test this for continuity using an electrical meter.

Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.

Thanks

Rylee

Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.
Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer.

I used a hair dryer for about 5 minutes. It took a while to verify because a tray of ice had to fill and freeze before I knew my problem was fixed. No repairman!!!

Hi,
If the fridge has a grille round the back that gives off the heat, that might be covered with fluff and spiders which will be reducing it's ability to dissipate the heat from the compressor. It might be worth having a look at that. Otherwise, it might keep going for 25 years like mine has :-)
Hope this helps, D.

need more info ,you mean it stopped and the compressor in not running?

dear ricurtsmith..
your fridge has a water trap pan underneath it to catch the water from the drain line when your fridge automatic defrost.
either the pan is not in place proper or the pan may not be underneath, period. or pan could be stopped up/need cleaning. or if pan is made of plastic, it could be cracked.
it is located at the bottom of fridge where you see something loos like a grilled vent. remove that bottom piece to get to the drain pan.(it just slides out!!) good luck & hope i was helpful.

brbharo....

WHAT IS THE BRAND AND THE MODEL NUMBER OF THE REF

form where to where do you need to replace it?? you can get a roll of the tubing from a decent hardware store, and for the most part all lines run with in the machine are accessable from point to point, even within the freezer door itself should be run through a channel that you'll be able to pull a new line through

i guess you can ohm it out witha meter( exact specs idont know) can you hear it clicking on/off??, generally i remove it from compressor and if its faulty it shake and sound busted. might be bad compreesot that coaused that (which should be covered under 5 yr manu. warr) adnthat comes with new overload protector