Kenmore 73502 / 73504 / 73509 Bottom Freezer Refrigerator - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Check to see if the evaporator behind the back metal cover on the freezer side is all frosted up, if it is, then it will probably be the defrost heater which is bad and letting it clog with frost causing low or no airflow. The heater is not expensive and can be ordered online on ebay. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gary_9c859f4aa7e5ab10

maybe this site will help you. Has me in the past. Good luck! https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/How-To-Fix-A-Freezer/98-6--/Kenmore-Freezer-runs-all-the-time

What is the full part number for this? Sears has about 9 letters in their part numbers.

this link should help you sort this out. Drain freezes in moffat fridge Google Search

During very humid conditions you will get this problem many times due to door on refrigerator being opened much more than normal and maybe gaskets are not as pliable as they once were. Just be happy you have this problem instead of defrost circuit not working at all as that is a very costly alternative. Just empty and check weekly.

ER FF - found in another post = Error Freezer Fan. Removed freezer back panel (inside freezer), defrosted ice build up around fan. Error message gone for now. Easy fix at midnight - 20 minutes. Will be looking into ice-up cause.

I fixed it. ER FF is "Error Freezer Fan." Once the evaporator fan stops turning for more than 115 seconds, this error message will be displayed. This fridge is poorly designed and is not designed with air gaps or enough air gaps to allow air behind the back panel of the freezer where the fans and condenser coils are located thus causing ice to build up around the fan and it's ability to spin. The evaporator fan helps cirulate the cold air generated by the condenser coils.

The fix is (1) defrost your refrigerator which means you'll loose all your food if you don't have another unit to keep the food in until it's done defrosting or (2) to dismantle the entire freezer by removing all the trays and railing so that you can pull the back panel far enough to get the front end of a hair dryer over the top lip of the panel to melt the ice. My unit had ice build at the top right and left corners behind the panel. I opted for the latter and didn't have to throw any food away.

This is going to be an annual chore if I want to keep this refrigerator. We should all ban together and call for a recall.

We had a problem with a loud noise when the motor turned on. Didn't know what it was but after a week or two, the noise went away and the Refrigerator was no longer cold (even though the freezer was fine). At this point, instead of temperatures showing inside the refrigerator read out, there was an error code: ER FF. The circulator motor was no longer working. This I read was due to an ice build up which binded the motor. We shut off the unit for 24 hours to defrost it and it worked fine after that. Do this before calling a repair man for service.

FREEZER /FRIDGE NOT COOLING: Optimum refrigerator temperature at or below40° F(4° C). The freezer temperature should be0° F(-18° C). Check temperatures periodically. Appliance thermometers are the best way of knowing these Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage. Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly. Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air. But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer. Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. THE COMPRESSOR: If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed. To check ur compressor with multi meter: Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, somes located next to compressor in a casing. You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur srtart winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground. Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms. Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required. Read more:http://removeandreplace.com/2013/10/31/fix-refrigerator-freezer-wont-cool-freeze/#ixzz3WDEo5NDJ

FREEZER /FRIDGE NOT COOLING: Optimum refrigerator temperature at or below40° F(4° C). Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage. Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly. Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air. But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer. Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. THE COMPRESSOR: If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed. To check ur compressor with multi meter: Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, somes located next to compressor in a casing. You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur srtart winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground. Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms. Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required. Read more:http://removeandreplace.com/2013/10/31/fix-refrigerator-freezer-wont-cool-freeze/#ixzz3WDEo5NDJ

I have the same problem

Check out this site. It has 2 manuals in pdf format. http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kenmore-elite-Parts/Refrigerator-Parts/user-manuals/manual-downloads/Model-79572059110/0583/0161000?modelNumber=79572059110&diagramPageId=&documentId=

well you've probably gotten something jammed in there and now you will need to remove everything from the refrigerator. tip on sides to see if the jammed item will shift of of jam.

Unplug the refer and leave unplugged for a full FIVE minutes. This will reboot the CPU and fixes about 98% of all problems with the .the Kenmore Elites. If you can't pull the refer out for some reason, try switching off the circuit breaker instead.

Most likely compressor weak or gas leak, may be cooling pipes are choked

Check the compressor start device. The fans will be running and the compressor fan will be running but the compressor is problaly not running. If it is then it could be the compressor itself that is not oumping.

Check all wiring behind fascia and freezer door hinge

It may need to be re-gassed and repaired. But before you do its plainly been damaged in transit so you will be able make a claim agianst the transport company. Don't be shy call them and ask how to make a claim.

I've been struggling trying to keep our 2 goldens dog hair from the coils of our 8 year old Kenmore side by side with "W" compressor coils, but like everyone else was unable to clean past the first set of coils. I came up with this solution that worked to get much of the big stuff, hair and bunnies, off of the further back coils. Not perfect but much better than nothing. Removing the back lower panel I was able to snake a crevice attachment from our vacuum down the right side of the coils (left side looking from back) Looking from front" I made a compressed air contraption to blow the dust/hair across the coils using a compressed air nozzle that I added a 10" long tube and a 90 degree deflector From the front of the fridge, on the left side of the coils, I snaked the compressed air nozzle towards the back and started directing the air stream blowing towards the vacuum crevice tool at the opposite side of the coils. The compressed air dislodged the hair/dust enough that the vacuum was able to **** it away. Again, not perfectly but certainly much better than I was able to clean the coils in the past. I suppose you could use a can of compressed air and add some sort of deflector if you don't have a compressor. I then got to thinking how to prevent the dust from accumulating on the coils, I'm going to try an air conditioner filter. I cut it slightly oversized to fit the front opening then split it in half to make it thinner for more air flow. Picture taken before making the filter thinner. For years I had my calendar remind me monthly to vacuum the coils but now hopefully I'll be able to simply change the air filter.

Hi Tim. Thermostat problem. Gas problem. Compressor problem. very rare Electrical problem. regards, nuwan.