Moen & One Handle Tub & Shower Faucet - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Question moved from Vacuums. If the pictures here are correct, there are 'variations' to the 1225 cartridge. No, it doesn't sound as though yours if fitted correctly. There is normally a stop on both sides of hot and cold to stop it spinning 360'. https://www.google.com/search?q=1225+moen+cartridge

Try heating the handle with a torch.

Easy one.Feel the pipes. The pipe on the right should be cold. If the pipes are correct, turn the cartridge 180 degrees.

Put a cup of Baking Soda in drain, then add two cups white vinegar! This should foam like crazy wait ten minutes ,run real hot water. you may have to repeat a couple times. this will not hurt pipes unlike some drain cleaners.

More info needed. Posi-temp or regular? Has it been worked on recently?

Take a sharp knife and gently slide it under the edge of the cap. Now pry up.

You will need to replace the cartridge. It is a 1225 Moen cartridge which you can get at any hardware store Home Depot or plumbing supply. A brass cartridge is also made but it costs more and is no better than the plastic cartridge. The tools you need.are silicone grease or heat proof grease, a phillips screwdriver, pliers, a 34" copper cleaning brush, and a small flat screwdriver or an awl. The water to the house must be shut off before you remove the cartridge. Open the valve to bleed the water pressure. Turn the handle so it is in the neutral position between hot and cold. This will make it easier to orient the cartridge when you replace it. To access the cartridge, you must first remove the handle. In order to remove the handle use the awl or screwdriver(or a knife) to pry off the cap on the handle. Once the cap is removed use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw. Now the handle can be pulled straight off. Pull off the chrome stopp tube that encloses the cartridge. No pliers needed, just pull it straight off. The brass spindle in the middle of the cartridge has a notch on one side or the other. Take note if this notch is up or down because that is how you are going to install the new cartridge. Keep in mind that if you install the cartridge improperly where hot and cold are reversed, you can simply remove the handle and spin the brass spindle in the cartridge 180°. There is a horseshoe shaped retainer clip that keeps the cartridge in place. Use your small screwdriver or awl to pry upward on the retainer clip to remove it. A white plastic cartridge removal tool comes with your cartridge. Place it onto the spindle and turn back and forth back and forth to loosen the cartridge. Now you can take your pliers, grab the brass spindle firmly, and pull straight back towards you. If this is a really old valve it might not want to come out. Keep trying, but if it doesn't work you will need to purchase the cartridge removal tool. Be aware that there are two different types, one for the posi-temp, and one for the basic cartridge that you have. It is similar to a hub pulling tool used for cars. Back the nut on the tool up all the way towards the T-handle and back the screw all the way out. Now place the tool onto the brass spindle of the cartridge, and turn the screw until you can't anymore. Take the T handle, turn back and forth to loosen the cartridge. Now you can advance the nut. Use your pliers on the nut if it is too difficult to turn with your hand. The next step is something that I do to ensure better performance and a longer lifetime of the new cartridge. Take a three-quarter inch copper cleaning brush and turning it clockwise push it into the housing of the cartridge. Never turn the brush counterclockwise. As you remove it from the housing turn it clockwise. Now the lines must be flushed to get any debris out of the cartridge housing. Turn on the water main for the count of three seconds and then turn it off. Take some silicone grease or heatproof grease and rub it on the inside of the housing Now you are ready to install your new cartridge. As I said before, take note of the notch on the cartridge. The two tabs on the end of the cartridge must align vertically. Push the cartridge all the way in and reinstall your retainer clip. If the clip does not go all the way in the two tabs on the cartridge may not be aligned properly. Use your cartridge removal tool or the plastic piece that came with the cartridge to line these tabs. If they are not exactly vertical the clip may not go on. If the cartridge is not pushed in all the way to clip may not go on. But the stop tube and handle back on and you are done

Sometimes the valve sticks to the handle, try spraying a little vinegar or delimer and let it sit a moment; then wiggle it loose.

There is a special tool that yo can use to remove an old and stuck moen cartridge and they can found at your hardware store. Now before you remove the cartridge be sure to remove a small brass or copper pin located at the top of the stem. you will see a groove in the stem cover where the pin is located. once the pin is removed hookup the puller and remove stem. sometime you are able just to grab the stem with a pair of pliers and give a good pull and twist to get it out. don't pull to hard to damage the plumbing in the wall. good luck and I hope I was able to help. As always, TURN OFF THE WATER FIRST...

It sounds like you know what you're doing, but if it has O'rings, try replacing those. If there is a snug fix with the valve then the leak is a problem with the inner workings of the cartridge.

It needs a new cartridge. Moen gaurantees most of their products for life, so if you have the original instructions check for contact info. They'll send you a new cartridge for $0.00

Take the shower head off and replace it with another one take the shower head to home depot and tell them the problem and then they will be able to tell you how to install it if this doesn't help call the plumber of your choice before you have to pay a pricey water bill.

Couple of ideas: If you don't get water at all first check to see if the shut-off valves are open. If so, close them and remove and clean the cartridge. If water comes from the spout and not the shower head, make sure the diverter (the handle on the tub spout) moves up when you pull it. If that works, remove and clean the shower head since there might be debris blocking the water flow. Without more info this is my best guess.

If the handle spins, but the cartridge remains stationary, then the stop inside the handle is broken and the handle must be replaced. To test, remove handle and see if you can turn the stem with a pliers. If you can turn the water on, then I'm right. Replace the handle. If not, then you have me stumped.

The most common reason for basement leakage is from the seal at the drain or the seal behind the overflow. With the overflow, the water trickles down after bouncing off your body and back onto the tub. This possibility MUST be eliminated first before determining the next step, Turn on the cold water and fill the tub and let the water go into the overflow for about 5 minutes. This will simulate someone in and using the shower. Check for leaks in the basement.

This test, as simple as it is, will also implicate bad plumbing connections at the valve itself behind the wall as well as eliminate backsplash from the showerer bouncing back onto your control valve(s).

If you have a leakage, wait a day and, with the drain open, turn on the hot/cold valve(s). and waste some water for another 5 minute test. This test eliminates the overflow as a suspect, and with the drain open almost always eliminates the drain as well. Hey..in plumbing there are no perfect answers.

If you still have leakage and no one is showering you have pretty well isolated the valve or connections to the valve. If you don't have leakage, it points to water bouncing off the body and onto the control valve(s) at which point resealing would be in order.

You can get leakage also if the caulking around the tub where the tub meets the wall has gone south. Stamped out steel tubs (common in rental apartments) have open corners so if the wall-to tub caulking is poor then the shower bounce off the body will easily trickle to the basement. This is not an issue with cast iron or fiberglass/plastic tubs.

If these tests truely point to the valve(s), repost your ? and refer to the drain tests completed, and supply as much information as you can about the brand and age of your valve(s)

I think it needs maintenance. But this is a job you should leave to a tech. call plumber or goto the store who installed the valve.

Moen cartridges are available. Their adds say "buy it for looks, buy it for life." Once you get it out you should be able to get a free one (more likely from a plumbing supply house, but a big box store should honor the guarantee). Anyway, take the escutcheon plate off so just the valve is exposed in the wall. Make sure the valve stem is pulled out when you thread in the puller. Twist the handle of the puller back and forth. Remember to take the clip out. You can try a little lime remover, but I'd got straight to heating it up. I'd use a propane or mapp gas torch and be careful!!!~ Take normal precautions. The heat will loosen it up; just be patient. It'll come, but it may take several attempts. Good luck!!

Just go mind off using the YouTube link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d-mNyYqeH0s

Sounds like your cartridge is plugging up. Change the cartridge. You need a #1222 cartridge.

you may have some obstruction. remove the cartridge and check if there's anything in the valve body. sometimes the rubber pieces on the cartridge can dislodge. you might try to flush a little water through the valve before you put it back together. remember Moen says "buy it for looks, buy it for life." The cartridge is guaranteed for life.