20 Most Recent KitchenAid KGST307 Gas Kitchen Range - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Electric gas igniters sometimes get stuck in one position causing a clicking sound. The clicking sound that you hear is the electric arc that is pulsing from the igniter conductor (wire) to ground (the gas burner). It receives power from the electrical outlet that the stove is plugged into.
Residue from food and sometimes cleaning products may be preventing the igniter from producing a spark (Arc) to the base of the burner. This is a common problem that occurs when the stove has been cleaned or food is allowed to build up. Make sure that the igniter and the burner base are clean and dry. This will help with proper operation. Oven cleaner and a small tooth brush may be used to accomplish this. Another problem with ignition may occur if you have too little (touching) or too much space between the igniter and the base of the burner; it will prevent the burner from igniting. You should only have a little more space than the thickness of a nickel between the burner base and the igniter. A good “blue” arc from the igniter to the burner base is optimal. If this doesn’t work, you may need to replace the electric igniter module. Good luck.

Find the bake ignitor (you may need to remove bottom drawer or oven cavity floor to get to the ignitor). Turn on the bake. If the bake ignitor comes on (starts glowing after a few seconds) - check the amperage on the bake ignitor wires when it's on. Should be 3 - 3.6A. If less than 3A - replace ignitor. If the ignitor does not come on - check the voltage on the ignitor, should be the line voltage 110-120v AC. If there is a line voltage on the ignitor and it's not coming on - replace.

Part numbers, the first one being the direct replacement: 9751123, 5303935067, 786324.
Those ignitors are interchangeable, if you can splice the wires, if not comfortable splicing wires - order the first one.

PS Ignitors are fragile, handle with care, don't bump or drop one.

Good luck!

Find the bake ignitor (you may need to remove bottom drawer or oven cavity floor to get to the ignitor). Turn on the bake. If the bake ignitor comes on (starts glowing after a few seconds) - check the amperage on the bake ignitor wires when it's on. If the ignitor is a round style - amperage should be 2.5-3A, if the ignitor is rectangular - 3 - 3.6A. If less than 2.5A or 3A respectively - replace ignitor. If the ignitor does not come on - check the voltage on the ignitor, should be the line voltage 110-120v AC. If there is a line voltage on the ignitor and it's not coming on - replace.
Ignitor part numbers for round style ones: 4342528, WB2X9154, SGR403, 5304401265;
rectangular styles: 12400035, WB13K21, WB2X9998, SGR412, NR020, 5303935066, 814269, 9753108.
Ignitors of the same shape (i.e. rectangular) are interchangeable, if you can splice the wires.

Good luck!

The problem is usually the igniter not reaching the correct amp draw .When the igniter does not reach the correct amp draw it may allow the gas valve to partially open or not open at all. The igniters are inexpensive and easy to replace. There is a video at http://appliancehelponline.com/gasoventroubleshootvideo.html this will walk you thru the correct procedure for performing this test. It may be a different model but the testing will be the same.You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations of your specific model. Not all models are available. All parts come with installation instructions.

You can either find a Authorized KitchenAid Repair Center or go to www.repairclinic.com , enter your model number and they will have all the parts listed available.

Hi,
The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...

Oven not Working or Oven not Heating
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3663023-oven_not_working_or_oven_not_heating

Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter http://www.fixya.com/support/r4572625-oven_problems_replacing_igniter

heatman101

Hi,
Most of the time the replacement is really not that hard...here is a tip that I wrote about that...

Range/Stove/ Oven Door Glass Replacement

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4391163-range_stove_oven_door_glass_replacement

The very bottom link on this tip will help you with getting the part online...

heatman101

Sounds like a weak ignitor is not opening the gasvalve completely. Only testing the amp the ignitor draws will confirm. It could also be a sticking valve. Have a professional verify, this is not safe.
Eric

Hi,
This tip I wrote to help people with the problem of the spark not shutting off...the clicking non-stop is a common problem.

Gas Range Repair Burners Keep on Clicking
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4033033-gas_range_repair_burners_keep_clicking

heatman101

The outlet voltage is fine, and will fluctuate depending on load during the day, so you can read anywhere from maybe 112V to 122V at various times. I don't have any experience with your model, but Seth here at Fixya answered a question about the oven not going higher than 250 V for another person. Here is his answer:
seth765
Rank: Guru Expert
Rating: 89%, 266 votes
this is normally a faulty electronic control board and should be replaced.But you can check the resistance on the temp probe
That it is the electronic control board makes sense, since the potentiometer for the coil voltage is there. As for the button problem, the display assembly would have to be taken apart to see exactly what is going on, I know that from having been an electronic tech all my life, and I've had to fix all my appliances myself. Being that way, I would try to get at the control board to see if there isn't any corrosion on the gold-plated contacts that switches use. Sometimes their construction is such that you have to partially destroy it to see what's going on. Service techs don't go that far, they just replace the part, which is what will be required of you, most likely. If you do try to get inside to check it out, make sure all wire connectors are tight and not loose. If you can get some electrical contact spray cleaner inside the part, try to spray the switch contacts, operate them, spray some more, and let them thoroughly dry. Don't work on the unit unless it's unplugged. I wish I had an "easy fix" for you, and maybe I could figure out one if I could see the unit, but that's all the thoughts I have on it. Replacement of the panel may be the only option, sorry. I guess you could get them a repair person to give you an estimate first, but they'll be expensive, and you end up having to buy the part anyway, in most cases. Good luck, hope I helped some.

Hi,the problem is definately from the gas valve/regulator,its bad and needs to be replaced,here is how you go about with the diagnosis and replacement of the gas valve/regulator .
Remove the bottom drawer. Locate the gas valve/regulator with three electrical solenoids terminals on the back of the range. The middle terminal is Common, the upper terminal is Broil and the bottom terminal is Bake. Mark all wires and remove them from the terminals. Check between each solenoid for 216 Ohms resistance (Broil to Common and Bake to Common). If one of the solenoid is defective, neither one will operate and the gas valve/regulator has to be replaced.

This part is not too difficult to replace yourself if you know how to handle a simple tools. Pull the range out of the wall and shut off the gas. Before you'll remove the wires from the valve/regulator draw a picture of them so you will know where to put them on the new part. Tight all gas line connectors to prevent possible gas leak. Ensure to check all connections with a gas leak detector to make sure everything is safe.
You are done with the fix and the problem is solved.

thanks and take care

there is a continuous beep on my oven and it says enter the probe temperature. I never used and would like to cancel...how?

The problem is usually the ignitor not reaching the correct amp draw .When the ignitor does not reach the correct amp draw it may allow the gas valve to partially open or not open at all. The ignitors are inexpensive and easy to replace. There is a video at www.appliancehelponline.com/servicemanual.html this will walk you thru the correct procedure for performing this test. It may be a different model but the testing will be the same.You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations of your specific model. Not all models are available.

There is no pilot, if you have a glowplug/bar.
Your gas valve should not open if the glowplug is not orange to white hot. Either you have a defective gas manifold on the oven or your heat sensor for the glowplug is shorted closed. Replace the sensor first, most likely candidate.

replace the starter or check the wires connecting the to the starter

Go to this site, you can see the diagram of the front, and the cost of the part you want. 164.00 plus ship.

Make sure that this is right, if you have to start from you MFG brand
and go to the part, you can look at the diagrams for your model.

http://www.partselect.com/PartDetail.aspx?inventory=403992#