20 Most Recent Eljer 141-0220-00 Toilet Tank White Questions & Answers

If there is a model number you will have to remove the top tank and look on the bottom of it. good luck

Might have been defective with a small crack from the very beginning and over time it just got bigger and bigger until it just gave way and ........................ Happens

replace the washers in the flow control valve inlet

Under the heads of the two bolts (inside the tank) there should also be rubber washers. Remove the bolts, clean the bolt holes (in the tank) thoroughly (a nylon scouring pad works). If the rubber washer aren't new, replace them. If the bolts aren't new, replace them too. While you have it apart, thoroughly clean the surfaces where the large rubber gasket seats too, in case your leak is coming from there. If cleaning and new bolts and washers doesn't fix it, you might try some plumbers putty or bathtub silicon caulk (not on the large gasket). Coat the two rubber washer generously all over. Good luck.

I had one just like that where the overflow tube that the flapper connects to was cracked. It sounds like this is the only part you have not replaced. The flapper may not be seating onto the inlet either. If you replaced the flapper with a cheaper version of flapper, some new ones will even leak.

you can find tank on amazon. take a look here Amazon com Eljer tank enjoy

You can purchass a whole new fixture for the same cost as just the tank I believe... any eljer tank will fit your toilet bowl... they are pretty universal.Does the current tank have a crack or something?you can replace the seals easilly enough if the tank is just leaking at the seal ... and the flush mechanism is also easy to replace , should that be the reson to swap out tanks too.

this is a case that dictates you replace the flapper.

Hi emaurice...
To stop the nut from loosing up, take the nut off of the flush handle unit,make sure the unit is dry and put a small amount of silicone sealant on the threads of the flush handle unit close to the tank and reinstall the nut.
If you do this before bedtime would be better just after the last time you use the toilet before going to bed.
Let the silicone cure overnight and that will solve your problem of the nut coming loose but still will be removable if you have to take it off.
Please take time to rate me

i went directly to eljer and could not find the part corresponding to the numbers you provided but if you are talking about the rubbery gasket, that goes between tank and bowl, it can be found at any local plumbing supply...most likely...and if it is the gasket you need then it does have to be exactly the right one or the tank will leak. if you're having trouble finding Eljer parts i would just buy a"fluidmaster" tank rebuild kit from home depot,lowes,ace,true value, etc (fluidmaster is everywhere) hope this helps but if you need anything else just ask:)

Go to Eljer's website: Eljer.

On the right-hand side you will see a drop down box labeled "color". From this list of available colors you can navigate through the toilet color options and see what is available.

Hope this helps.

DIYpro

Check where you bought the one which is now cracked, you may have had a guarantee on it which lasts a few years?

Let's assume you can buy the tank.
Installation of tank is simple.

If you can buy the eljer tank, you can buy whole new toilet with bowl and tank from home center.

We'll walk through instructions for both options.

1) How to replace tank on existing bowl.
-Tank is attached from underneath with two nuts.
-Turn off water, and hold flush valve down to drain tank
-Water connection is one nut. Follow supply line up to where it connects to tank. Loosen the nut that is around supply line just underneath tank. Pull nut downward and notice a black rubber washer that is probably stuck inside nut, or is stuck at bottom of tank. Make a note of where that nut is because it seals the water line to tank.
-You might also have a flex connector instead of supply tube. In that case, just unscrew flex connect from bottom of flush valve.
-Look beneath the tank and there are two nuts that hold tank to bowl.
-Take off these two nuts. A ratchet and socket is best tool, but you can use crescent wrench. -Notice these nuts are not exceptionally tight, but they are firm.
-Straddle the bowl and hold tank with two hands and lift up. Tank will come right up.
-Notice that on bottom of the tank: there are 2 bolts sticking out and there is a spongy rubber washer. This is the spud washer. Your new tank will have new washer. This washer seals tank to bowl so water doesn't leak when you flush.
-Notice round opening where flush water flows into bowl. Spud washer seals this hole. If you have experienced slow flushing, or if you have hard water, pour several cupfuls of CLR Calcium Lime Rust into the hole. CLR is sold at Home Depot by the gallon for $10.

-Open box to new tank. Find spud washer and fix it to bottom of new tank.
-Now a new tank is slippery, I want you to set boxes on floor nearby so if tank starts slipping, aim toward a box instead of hard tile floor.
-New tank comes with 2 new bolts, with nuts. Look at instruction sheet and see exactly how they want you to connect bolts to tank. Look carefully where they want you to put washers. These washer seal the tank when you tighten bolts.
-Now your spud washer is in place, the bolts are attached to tank and are sticking out of bottom of tank.
-Straddle bowl and lower new tank into place. Make sure spud washer lines up. Bolts line up. And flush valve lines up with supply tube. It's that easy.
-Tighten the nuts. Remember, not too tight. Toilet is not steel. And you can tighten more if there is seeping water.
-Now tank is in place. Raise nut and washer that are on supply tube and tighten nut onto bottom of flush valve. This nut is fairly tight. You might want to buy a new washer.
-If you have a flex line for the water supply, then just connect the flex line.

-Turn water ON a little bit at a time to avoid gusher if something is not correct.
-Use paper towels to check for dripping or seepage beneath tank. Tighten nuts appropriately to end seepage.
-Flush toilet and look for seepage around spud washer.
-You're done.

2) How to install new toilet.
-Remove old tank as shown above.
-Bowl is held to floor with two nuts.
-Ideal world those two nuts come right off and you lift bowl up off the floor.
-Real world, those nuts are rusted and you have to drill through side of the nut and bolt to break it off.
-Lift bowl up.
-Have cardboard ready next to toilet so you can set bowl on something. Or set it in bathtub.
-Bowl will be damp and wax ring is on bottom of bowl and will mess up the floor.
-Notice how the toilet bolts are set in the floor flange. Take photo if needed so you can put it back. It's real simple, but if you have never done this, a photo might help.
-Take putty knife and scrape wax ring off of floor flange. You want it smooth, but you don't clean it.
-New toilet comes with wax ring and bolts, but you might have to buy these at hardware store. Get wax right with gasket. The boxes are marked. Buy two of them.
-Set wax ring in center of floor flange. Gasket goes downward. Rounded side of wax ring goes up.
-Set new toilet bolts into floor flange. Keep bolts straight up using wax from the old wax ring, or from 2nd wax right you purchased.
-Keep bolts straight across from each other.
-Time to set the toilet.
-Stand in front of bowl and grab on either side at point where seat connects.
-Here's the fun part.
-Bowl has to go straight down onto wax ring so you have to be strong enough to hold tank level while aligning tank with bolts, without knocking the bolts down. Like a carnival game.
-Straddle walk toilet while holding it up high enough so it will not knock over the bolts.
-Lower bowl into place going straight down using bolts as guide. Lower a little bit and check one side for alignment and then check other side until bowl is going down and bolts fit through the holes.
-If bolt falls over or gets pushed away, straddle walk toilet back and set bolt straight up again.
-Once bowl is aligned, keep pushing straight down on bowl, and finally use your weight to push bowl to floor. Be careful to keep bowl perpendicular to wall so tank will sit straight.
-Attach bowl to floor with nuts and washers.
-Install tank as shown above.

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If the black cap that you are referring to is a tank bolt:

If you cannot tighten them, then they will need to be replaced. Turn off the water supply valve, flush the toilet and bail out as much residual water as possible. Remove the old bolts and separate the tank from the bowl. Replace the old tank gasket and refasten the tank with new bolts, properly placing rubber washers symetrically. An added precaution that I use is (after drying the inside of the tank well) is applying a dab of clear elastomeric sealant to the top of each bolt head, working it past the edges of the bolt heads onto the tank. Allow the sealant to cure as per directions. Open the supply valve slowly and allow the tank to fill. Inspect the tank bolt holes for leaks

recheck flapper that its seated and or properly adjusted

The Fluidmaster valve is clogged or defective.

Flush valve is corroded or bad..the rubbrflap on bottom of tank. Fill valve cud hav issue tu. Chec out utube videos