It covers several models including yours.
1. Check/Adjust the Flat Beater to Bowl Clearance:
Turn screw (A) SLIGHTLY counter clockwise (left) to raise the flat
beater or clockwise (right) to lower the flat beater
2. Check the Beater Shaft (Agitator Shaft) making sure the Retaining ring
is flushed with the surface of the Planetary Assembly
Constant Pulling and Removal of the beaters can cause the Agitator shaft to move
3. If the above two still don't solve your problem, follow the service manual
directions to disassemble the Planetary Assembly and check for loose screws
I understand that you are having a problem with your head locking in the down position. This is a common problem when the set screw that holds the latch in place is missing. On the right side of the base up next to where the lock is you will notice a whole that has threads make sure that the set screw is there if not you will need to order a new one. Here is a link to sears parts direct where you can purchase a new set screw they cost $4.62.
Hiya,
Sorry to hear you are having trouble with your mixer!
I would start by checking your motor brushes, as this is really easy to check. They may have been placed in the wrong way or worn down too much.
I have added a link below for a help video on checking and replacing your motor brushes:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5YuS3atXR0M
I hope this helps you :)
Hiya,
I am sorry to hear you are having trouble with your speed on your mixer.
I have added a link below for a help video on adjusting your speed on your mixer:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bM3t46afGcc
I hope this helps you!!
The speed control lever is either bent or the screw it pivots on has come loose. The only way to solve the problem properly is to take off the back cover, remove the white and the black wires from the speed control plate, remove it from the pedestal (1 screw up inside the pedestal to remove hinge pin), take the chrome drip ring off, remove the planetary and remove the 9 screws holding the 2 case halves together. That will allow you access to the lever and you will be able to tighten the screw or remove and bend the lever to give it more tension on the bumps in the housing that hold it in off or speed positions. This list is pretty much in order of how you do it.
Hiya,
It sounds like you need to adjust the head height on your mixer.
I have added a link below for our help page on adjusting your mixers head height.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bmg8SVldZbs
I hope this helps you :)
Hiya,
Sorry to hear you are having trouble with your mixer.
It may be that your motor brushes are worn down or have been put in incorrectly.
I have added a link below for our help page on replacing your motor brushes:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5YuS3atXR0M
I have also added a link below if you wish to purchase a set of new motor brushes:
6778011 KABrushSet KitchenAid Mixer Motor Brush Set (2 x W10380496 brushes) https://secure.kaparts.co.uk/sku/6778011
I hope this helps you :)
Hello there,
Sorry to hear you are experiencing an issue with your appliance, it sounds like you might need a new tilt lever. Please see below the help video for your perusal as well as quote for a replacement one, should it need replacing:
4176024 KitchenAid Lever-Latch Black was 9709280, 9709267 tilt https://secure.kaparts.co.uk/sku/4176024
Raise the head and adjust the screw that is now exposed from the front over the top of the bowl where the head hinges on the pedestal. Screw out to raise the head up.....anti clockwise.
If it's just the wire beater attachment, then it's possible it's oxidation from the metal/aluminum. Did you put it in the dishwasher? The manual says not to put the wire beater in the dishwasher. Hope that helps.
I had the same problem. Part #25, the "control plate assembly" It has a set of points on the lower, inside. These points turn the motor on. You can watch it as you go from off to stir. If at that setting the motor doesn't start, be very careful and bend the lower point contact up just a bit. The 2 points should make contact earlier, and turn the motor on.
What part number did you order for the beater and what is the model number for the mixer? Also is the mixer brand new, or did you get it used and it just started happening?
Hi ROBYN, Happy New Year!First a couple of clarification questions: A) Was your ice-cream maker a Kitchenaid (KA) Ice Cream maker, too, and B) was your mixer purchased after 1990?If you purchased a KA Ice Cream maker and your mixer is less than 20 years old, according to KA, the Ice cream maker should fit all mixer produced after 1990. If you have a different brand (not KA) of ice cream maker, then I’m afraid you just won’t just be able to replace the drive assembly, but you will also need the correct dasher (the scraper inside the freeze bowl), as such you probably would be better off purchasing a KA Ice Cream Maker, which would be compatible with your mixer.Of course if your mixer is over 20 years old, then even if you have a KA Ice Cream maker, it may not fit correctly anyway, which leaves you in a conundrum.Should you purchase a new KA mixer for your KA Ice Cream maker or do you purchase a new KA Ice Cream Maker to go with your current KA mixer produced after 1990? You can download the KA Ice Cream Maker Use & Care Manual from the KA website at: http://www.kitchenaid.com/assets/pdfs/product/ZUSECARE/KICA0WH_Use%20and%20Care_EN.pdf I wish I could offer you a better solution to use your new ice cream maker with your current mixer, but unfortunately I am unable to do so. I hope this was helpful, even if it doesn’t provide you the answer you were looking for.Good Luck, Howard, Burke, VA.If this solution was helpful though, please rate it. hslincoln
Where do you see the visible sparking?? There are two places in the mixer where this could / should happen. One is at the brushes where they meet the commutator on the armature of the motor. I don't think you can see that place during operation unless you have the rear cover off and know just how and where to look down the tube of the motor head. The second place is at the rear of the machine at the copper contacts on the speed control switch. You can see in the machine during operation at this location. You should not be overly concerned about this...unless...you are seeing constant arcing, then you need a new speed control switch as the resistance (amount of metal to conduct the electric current) between the contacts is worn down. This will cause a constant arc and will eventually wear down and then freeze closed and ...Walla! the mixer will not work any more and it can short out the rest of the electrical in the mixer. So; if you are seeing short intermittent sparks at the rear of the machine , well no worries, if it is constant then replace the speed control switch if it is anywhere else it is an electrical short and that can be very dangerous indeed. Tell us where you are seeing the sparks...and we can FixYa.
The gearbox grease has separated and is starting to move (slowly) onto the motor armature area through the front bearing. Replace the grease and since it will be apart, use a lot of cloth strips (NO Q-TIPS! TOO STRINGY - LEAVES A MESS) and alcohol to clean off the motor's armature, housing area and any place you see grease slung around. It's not going to be easy, but worth it. I will try to post pictures as I am doing this right now 12/28/17 to my wife's Kitchenaid for this exact reason.The first image is the gear side of the motor bearing, where the thinning grease is moving through. The second image is a shot of the armature of the motor where the brushes touch and will smoke if grease gets that far (it does). The third image is a cleaned out armature area (brushes removed and speed switch moved)The last is the pooled oil separated and sitting just behind the gear box (where will it go if you tilt the head back?)
Ideally you need to fix what's bent and that normally would involve splitting the cases to get at and repair or change the speed control lever. If you don't want to do that then removing the back cover and altering the adjustments and maybe bending the switch contacts may make it operate at both ends of the speed control.
