20 Most Recent KitchenAid KBMC140HSS Convection/Microwave Oven - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Hello Allen, I can help. Unfortunately, the bulb can only be replaced by opening up the case. This is extremely dangerous if you are not trained as you can be electrocuted even when the unit is unplugged. Call a repair shop and ask them what it would cost now that new ones have gone down so far in price

Sounds like the magnetron has failed. This is the component that produces the microwaves that heats the food.

The cost of the magnetron is about 95% of the cost of a microwave oven. Most people don't, for this reason, replace the magnetron, they replace the whole oven which is probably what you will end up doing.

There is a possibility that the circuit that provides power to the magnetron is faulty and you need to take it apart, find the proper electrical leads and test them with a volt meter. To do this you have to remove it from its mounting and take it apart. It is a fairly lengthy process however.


Benjamin

Thanks, I took it in for a 45 dollar analysis

Accessing the internal light bulb on model KBMC140HSS bulb will require you to remove the oven from the wall.

If so, the installation instructions are very handy, and it's best to have two people since the microwave can be heavy and awkward.

You can download Whirlpool / Kitchenaid owner's manuals and installation instructions here.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number from the tag on the oven here.

These models use halogen lamps. You must not touch the new one with your bare skin, as the oils will shorten the bulb life.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

The common problem of microwaves not heating up is either the magnatron assy or the high voltage fuse. BEFORE ANY WORK IS CARRIED OUT ON THE UNIT DISCHARGE THE HIGH VOLTAGE CAPACITOR, IF YOU DO NOT KNOW HOW TO DO THIS, READ UP ON IT OR GET SOMEONE QUALIFIED TO DISCHARGE FOR YOU, THE HIGH VOLTAGE CAPACITOR STORES A DANGEROUS AMOUNT OF VOLTAGE!!!!

First we should determine if it's actually cooking when you just close the door, or if it's only the light and fan running.

You can test it by putting in a cup of water and closing the door for 30-60 seconds, then checking to see if the water is warmer.

If it is actually cooking, then it's your control panel that needs to be repaired.

We regularly repair these control units for customers nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in about a week with a one-year guarantee.

If it is not cooking, then you have a problem with the lower door switch (primary interlock switch) or its mount.

That's a pretty easy DIY fix. At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

Then you can see this file: http://www.microwavedisplay.com/doorsw.txt

There should also be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

Feel free to contact me directly (and please remind me of your full model number) for more information & help.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller
[email protected]
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/product_literature/search_results.jsp?searchTerm=KEMS307DBS&siteCd=KAD#parts_list HEY ANDYCOOL,GO TO THIS LINK IT'LL SHOW YOU ANYTHING YOUR HEART DESIRES ABOUT THIS UNIT(DRAWINGS,USER MANUAL,PARTS LIST,INSTALLATION GUIDE,ECT.)SORRY BUT FROM THE LOOKS OF IT YOUR GONNA HAVE TO PULL THAT PUPPY.BUT YOU BE THE JUDGE OF THAT.GOOD LUCK,HOPE THIS HELPS!!!!

The service man just left it was the 20 amp line fuse. Have one on order.

You can download the owner's manual and installation instructions here.

You can also download the parts manual here. It has handy exploded views. The bulb is shown on page 5 and is ref # 75.

You will need these instructions, because to replace the bulb, you will need to pull the microwave down from the wall mount and remove its cover.

Always unplug a microwave before removing or installing any bulbs.

And it's best to have two people since the microwave can be heavy and awkward.

Once it's out of the wall, the outer cover (wrapper) will need to be removed, just as you'll need to do on a counter top model.

The screws you need to remove should be pretty obvious, but a special driver (such as a T20H type or GTXH20-100) may be needed.

Be sure to put all the screws back in the right holes, since some may be special grounding screws.

Bulbs can be had in most grocery stores, hardware stores, home improvement centers, and big box or department stores.

If you don't find a replacement locally, check here.

Many models use halogen lamps. You must not touch the new one with your bare skin, as the oils will shorten the bulb life.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

After self cleaning the range the door won't open....
The oven door lock needs approximately 1 hour to cool down before the oven door can be opened after a self cleaning cycle has finished. If the lock does not open after the oven has cooled down, you can try....1) Unplugging the range or shut off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. Plug the range back in or turn on the circuit breaker. Set the clock and try moving the door lock lever or opening the door. 2) Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever or opening the door.


Hope this may help;

DON'T FORGET TO HELP

This is usually an indication of a bad door interlock. Take resistance readings with the power turned off on the primary and secondary interlocks. You will need to remove the control panel to access them. There should be a wiring diagram somewhere inside the control panel to assist you in determining if the interlock is normally OPEN, or normally CLOSED. As you open and close the door the interlock should change states. Additionally, double all your connectors to make sure they are plugged in correctly. I had a similar problem once and it turned out to be a loose connection on one of the interlocks. I hope this helps you.

The oven will need to come down from the wall so the outer cover can be taken off. Then you'll see the light socket(s).

It's recommend due to the weight and awkwardness of the oven that two people do this job.

If you don't still have your installation instructions, you can download them here, but you should use you full model number, as opposed to the base KEM378.

This uses a fairly common halogen bulb, but I'm not sure of the wattage. It should be marked on the bulb or on a tag near the reflector.

You must not touch the new one with your bare skin, as the oils will shorten the bulb life.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

If it's the one that lights the cooktop, it's normally beneath the bottom cover.

In some cases, it's located in a compartment behind the grille that goes across the top of the unit.

I have a diagram at my site which helps you find & replace many GE cooktop and cavity light bulbs. It may help. It's at http://207.234.249.73/mwd/ge_lamp_replacement.jpg

Please let me know if that helps or not.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

You may have to remove a panel on the bottom or remove the grille across the top.

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383

I have a diagram at my site which helps you find & replace many GE cooktop and cavity light bulbs. Other models are similar. It's at http://207.234.249.73/mwd/ge_lamp_replacement.jpg

In some over-the-range models, that can mean having to take the oven down from the wall! For safety's sake, that should be a two-person job and it's really helpful if you have your original installation instructions to do this.

Many models use halogen lamps. You must not touch the new one with your bare skin as the oils will shorten the bulb life.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

The first thing to try is a "hard reset". Unplug it from the power line for a few minutes, plug it back in, set the clock, then try again.

Let us know if the hard reset doesn't fix it.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

this model is very tricky you will damage the inner frame if your not experienced ,call for service and save your money,there are 2 springs inside the frame that criss/cross and they may look alike but are not,when you undo the screws the door glass will let go and fall to the floor if you don't know and crack the inner fram assy. thats plastic ,there are 4 screws that hold the door together that you can see and 2 more inside you can't. the 2 on the bottom of the door that support the glass are hard to getat.the micro wave oven can be seperated from the bottom unit and pulled foward for access of screws.

The main reason door switches go out is by opening the door while it's cooking, instead of hitting the STOP button first. Otherwise, like anything man made, they can fail. And for safety's sake, they should all be replaced when one is bad. If a keypad is failing repeatedly, I would suspect outside contamination or an inherently bad design. But I've not before heard of repeated keypad replacement. Moisture and contamination can be caused by not using the hood fan when boiling on the stove top, spraying of cleaners, by storing the microwave in an unheated garage or shed, or infestation. I warn my customers to never spray cleaner directly onto the microwave keypad, since the liquid can get inside and "lock up" or even ruin the keypad or controller. Apply an alcohol-based cleaner (such as the purple kind) to a cloth (paper towels can scratch) and gently wipe it off. I suggest to my customers that they NEVER use any ammonia-based cleaner (like the blue stuff) on a microwave, since the ammonia will crack and distort polycarbonate plastics. Hope this helps.

Doors for microwave ovens are usually replaced as a complete item. I would ask the person who forgot to fix the door latches properly back to fix it properly. If some of the clips were snapped off when removing the door panel, the panel must be replaced or it will fall out again.

I am a bit late on this question, but just ended up in a rabbit hole of unanswered Kitchenaid questions The self cleaning features only serves to keep manufacturers in steady sales of parts. Quite simply the oven can only take those temperatures a few times until they break. The heat burns out elements, damages fans, door locks and worst of all damages control boards which are not far enough from the heat source. You problem sounds like the walls of the oven have buckled in the heat so the racks no longer fit. Too late now, but you should have taken Kitchenaid to court, the oven was not fit for purpose under the description they used to sell it to you. Never use the self cleaning feature as stated here https://www.google.com/search?q=self-cleaning+oven+temperature Never Ever use the self clean feature. We see damage here every couple of weeks. The worst was a burned control board on an oven that all parts were obsolete, so the self clean cost a thousand bucks! Self-cleaning ovens bring the heat so you don't have to spend hours scrubbing. Traditional self-cleaning cycles heat the oven between 800°F and 900°F, helping turn soil and spills to a powdery ash you can then wipe away. They utilize only heat-no chemicals-and are built to withstand high temperatures. (Says Maytag who love selling elements, door locks and other parts),

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