You only need some simple tools, like a screwdriver and a wrench, to remove the unloader valve, mostly the problem lies in the piston, o-rings, or the spring of the unloader valve.
I'm assuming it's a Dixie Chopper is a Classic or Silveer Eagle?
Have you tried jumping the starter Relay with a insulated handle screw driver or pliers with key in on position. If it turns over and starts it's a bad starter relay.
Best to you.
The electric PTO clutch will have a brake (permanent magnet set) to effect drag when the clutch is off. If you can spin the pulley with your finger tips, that would be abnormal.
To troubleshoot you will need to measure voltage at the clutch electrical connector during failure. This can be done with engine not running.
To test, turn ignition key to ON position with engine not running. With operator in seat, pull PTO switch to ON position, then push OFF. You should hear clutch pop sound. Then insert test leads of a DMM into the clutch connector. The DMM should read battery voltage while clutch is ON and zero voltage when off. Operator in seat may or may not be necessary.
Now run mower to point of failure and repeat engine off test. Comment for further assistance.
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It seems like you're experiencing issues with your MacAllister JE150/92A lawn mower where the blades are not being driven and the clutch is not engaging properly. This can be frustrating, but there are several potential reasons for this problem. Here are some troubleshooting steps you can take:
Check the Drive Belt: The drive belt is responsible for transferring power from the engine to the blades. If it's loose, worn, or broken, it can lead to the symptoms you're experiencing. Inspect the drive belt for any signs of damage and make sure it's properly tensioned. If it's worn or damaged, you'll need to replace it.
Inspect the Clutch Mechanism: The clutch is what engages and disengages the blades. If the clutch isn't engaging properly, it could be due to a mechanical issue. Check for any obstructions or debris around the clutch mechanism that might be preventing it from engaging. Also, inspect the clutch cable for any signs of damage or disconnection.
Check the Pulleys and Idler Arm: The pulleys and idler arm play a crucial role in driving the blades. Make sure the pulleys are properly aligned and not damaged. The idler arm should move smoothly and maintain proper tension on the drive belt when the clutch is engaged.
Inspect the Engagement Lever: The lever that you use to engage the blades should be functioning properly. If it's loose, damaged, or not connecting with the clutch mechanism effectively, the blades won't engage. Ensure that the lever is moving smoothly and engaging the clutch properly.
Examine the Safety Interlocks: Many modern lawn mowers have safety interlocks that prevent the blades from engaging if certain conditions aren't met, such as the presence of a person on the seat or the parking brake not being engaged. Check these safety features to make sure they're not causing the issue.
Check for Engine Issues: Sometimes, the problem might be related to the engine itself. If the engine isn't running smoothly or generating enough power, it might not be able to drive the blades effectively. Make sure the engine is running properly and doesn't have any issues.
If you've checked these common issues and are still unable to determine the cause of the problem, it might be a good idea to consult the owner's manual for your specific lawn mower model. If you're not comfortable troubleshooting and fixing the issue yourself, it's recommended to contact a professional lawn mower repair service to diagnose and fix the problem for you.
No, you have to have it plugged or the pump oil will shoot out. I have a similar problem and can't find that part anywhere. They want to sale you a whole new upgraded pump for around $200. If you have original pump the oil fill is about 3/4 way up the tube, then you need to find some way to block, close off the tube opining where the dipstick would go.
No details given, so no idea :>D
Google
make model parts diagram.
From that you can see what go where. Springs and Shock Absorbers as very different items. One is a wire-wound coil, the other is a hydraulic piston.
If it popped (and got louder), it may be the muffler as they are sometimes held with a spring on small mowers. On a ride on mower, it could be the deck suspension.
Question edited for clarity, ' won't ' is a contraction of 'will not', 'the word 'want' is a request for something, they aren't interchangeable. ;>)
You sprayed has two handles, one on the wand and one on the pump.
Replacement wands are readily available. The pump is very simple in the way it works, there is a sealing gasket on the piston in the tube to create pressure and a non-return valve at the bottom of the tube to stop water flowing back. Check that they are clean and not obstructed.
GroundWork Sprayer parts
https://www.google.com/search?q=groundwork+sprayer+parts
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Question edited for full 'make model (what it is)'.
Question moved from Cars and Trucks to Pressure Washer category.
If there is a drain plug, it is at the base of the pump. To drain it though, you just empty the detergent container, and then run the pressure washer with the water disconnected until water stops coming out of the wand.
This page in the manual refers
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/816657/Task-Force-Tf2000.html?page=15&term=drain&selected=1#manual
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