20 Most Recent Rheem 80 GAL ELEC TALL Water Heater 6YR SC 82V802 Questions & Answers

there should be a manual over ride button on the heaters panel, or your wi fi central, press or switch it. You may have to program the heat setting also. Look in your manual

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Your 220v hot water heater does not need the neutral(white) wire coming in. Bare wire goes to ground -green headed screw. Black goes to black, Red goes to red. White gets teminated with a wirenut or some electrical tape.

You have water visible on outside of tank?
TP temperature-pressure valve is probably releasing water.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Leaking-water-heater.html

Age of water heater is determined by alpha-numeric serial number on label on side of tank.
Look at second two digits: On older kenmore for example C05.., was made in 2005

You have some hot water so that says specific things:
-Upper element is working.
-Electricity to water heater and circuit breaker are good
-You don't report a leak so TP valve is good
-You are not experiencing overheating event
-ECO reset button is not tripped
-Insulation and covers are in place so thermostat not exposed to cooler temperatures that would cause thermostat to misread temperature and cause overheating.

That leaves 6 suspects listed in order of ease:
1) Leaking faucet or broken water line that is running hot water all the time and tank cannot keep up.

2) Thermostats set too low. Turn power OFF, open covers and check each thermostat setting.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-adjust-temperature-on-water-heater.html

3) Loose screw or loose wire at upper thermostat, lower thermostat, or lower element. Turn power OFF and tighten screws, and look for signs of high heat and burning, especially on lower element.

4) Upper or lower thermostat is bad. Replace both thermostats for $28 and see if that corrects problem.
Parts available at home center, hardware, or plumbing supply
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html

5) Defective wire between upper and lower sections of tank: If this is the case, and water heater has 2" foam insulation, then tank usually replaced since insulation is too dense to drop another wire. Call for manufacturer for warranty information. Do a full troubleshoot using multimeter.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-manufacturers.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

6) Lower element is burned out. Test lower element. Replace lower element. Rheem elements are 4500 Watts and are available at home center, hardware, or plumbing supply
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-element-and-clean-sediment-out-of-electric-water-heater.html

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

http://www.rheem.com/product.aspx?id=09DF2BDD-5E11-4D32-B574-84ACFB8A4619
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82V80-2 Energy factor is .86 according to water heater industry self-regulated standards.

Rheem pdf says these water heaters are wired for non-simultaneous operation.
Except special order water heaters.
Non-simultaneous operation uses single 240V circuit as described below.
If your water heater is wired for simultaneous operation, and each element is on a separate circuit, that makes your water heater special order. I would guess the reason is for higher first-hour delivery, which implies rapid heating and would likely affect energy factor.
You might want to get serial number off model and call Rheem for specs on that special order.

Your water heater energy factor may be the same because 'energy efficiency is based on the amount of hot water produced per unit of fuel consumed over a typical day.' This means an aircraft carrier can be considered highly efficient despite overall cost. And naturally the guys making the aircraft carrier are also doing the rating.
http://www.energysavers.gov/your_home/water_heating/index.cfm/mytopic=13000

Non simultaneous operation means the upper thermostat controls heating functions.
240V goes to upper thermostat first.
When water inside tank is cold, thermostat reads temperature through tank wall.
Upper thermostat turns on upper element until top 2/3 of tank reaches thermostat set point.
Once set point is reached, upper thermostat turns off upper element and sends power to lower thermostat and lower element.
Lower thermostat reads temperature through tank wall, and turns on lower element until bottom 1/3 of tank reaches thermostat set point.
As water cools inside tank, lower thermostat is first to respond since hot water rises.
Lower thermostat turns on lower element until tank again reaches set point.
When hot water faucet is turned on, hot water exits top of tank.
At same time, cold water enters bottom of tank through the dip tube.
The heating cycle repeats.
At all times, the electricity flows through upper thermostat. And upper thermostat is powered by one 240V circuit.

With simultaneous operation, the upper and lower thermostats work in same manner.
Except thermostats are wired separately.
Lower thermostat does not wait for upper part of tank to be heated first.
Lower thermostat turns on whenever lower part of tank cools.
The advantage is more hot water available rapidly when demand is high. This is called first hour recovery.

One method for reducing electric consumption is to set lower thermostat so it only turns on during certain times of day. For example Whirlpool Energy Smart operates in this manner and shaves a few bucks off the bill each month. This says that simultaneous operation is not an energy saver, unless that circuit controlling lower thermostat is set on a timer.

It sounds like the timer for the lower element is bad. Also check your wiring and make sure they are correct.

Well there should be a circuit breaker in your panel. Be sure it is on. If the water in the house was OFF while the heater was on, the element(s) could have burned up. You can go to Reem's web site and download a manual for the water heater. It will depend on your experience as to whether or not to work on this. On must follow safety procedures to work on a energized water heater for testing. There is a high limit reset button under the cover that houses the thermostats. I would recommend turning breaker off before opening this cover. The rest is a red button. Remember electric and water don't mix.

The smell is from bacteria. The high temperature kills the bacteria. Some regions require water heater temp to be set at 135 because of bacteria.

A test to determine if only the water heater is causing problem: Turn off water to water heater. Smell water coming out of cold tap. Turn on water to heater, smell water from hot tap. If only hot tap smells, then water heater is suspect.

Another way to handle the problem long-term, is to reconfigure cold water pipes so you can regularly pour in 2 bottles of hydrogen peroxide during your flushing procedure. Pour in the hydrogen peroxide and let it work for a while. And then flush tank as you have been doing.

You should read up on anode rods also. Many people replace anode rods when tank begins to get odor.
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/Longevity/water-heater-anodes.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html

You have 2 thermostats inside of those covers, little things with a dial on them, turn them with a small screwdriver, Don't go too hot or you will be scalding everybody. Hope this helps.

Depending on the age and water hardness in your area, sediment buildup is the most likely cause of this issue. Other problem that you may run into are:
One burnt out heating element.
A bad thermostat.
A broken dip tube.
The heater is running on half power.
To run a maintenance check on your Rheem water heater you will need a voltmeter and a 4-way screwdriver.
Follow the testing procedure in this link.

check power

check reset button - this is located on the upper thermostat - red button

if these are ok, then it most likely is your element. I would replace both at the same time instead of just the bad one. make sure they are both the same, usually 4500 watts, take them with you to the store to make sure you get the right parts

Hey check out this link that I found on this matter I hope will help you with this.
http://homerepair.about.com/od/plumbingrepair/ss/trblsht_hwh_5.htm

Turn main water off to the water heater, it may be a valve on cold side coming in to shut off. Next turn power off to the heater and drain the tank the drain will be located near the bottom of the tank.
You will need a water hose to connect to the drain to run water outside. Open a faucet hot side to allow you to drain the tank.

Upon reinstall connect the tank up and fill tank and open up hot side on one faucet at a time to purge out air from system before turning power back on. Make sure you have water flowing from each faucet's hot side before turning power back on.

Check your particles with a magnet. If they stick your tank is rusting out and it may still have some warranty left, 5 -to 10 years is about right for a warranty issue. Any why check the particles with a magnet. Any way it is time to replace the heater. Sorry.

Hi .. if the thermostat is tripping and the safety valve is dripping , that would indicate that the water is being over heated , or the tank is at a low level . Check the thermostst setting, it should be about mid scale. Check the supply valve to be sure that there is a constant supply of cold water. Any thoughts?