Jan 20, 2013 - Stove top electric ignition still works fine, so there is power going to the .... maytag cwe4800acb oven shuts off and display goes blank during .
f your 2008 Maytag double oven's lower door is locked, here are some steps you can try to unlock it:
Press Cancel/Off Key: Start by pressing the Cancel/Off key. Wait for 20-30 seconds, then try to open the door. Sometimes this simple latch reset can do the trick.
Power Cycle: Turn off the power at the circuit breaker or fuse box for one minute. After that, turn the power back on. Allow the oven to cool for approximately 30-90 minutes, and then move the latch arm to the left to unlock the door.
Self-Clean Cycle Interruption: If the door locked during a self-clean cycle, select the "Self Clean" option, and then choose "Cancel". Wait a couple of minutes, and then try to start the cycle again. If the self-clean cycle was started by mistake, press the Cancel/Off key. The oven will need to cool to around 200°F (95°C) before the door can open.
Remember to ensure that the oven is cool and the power is turned off before attempting any of these steps. Hopefully, one of these methods will help you unlock the oven door! Your manual might prove helpful. Oven is Locked - What to Do - Product Help ' Maytag
There are two types and they both work to a theme. Modern Oven hinges are inset into the door itself, so you just split the door apart, take the old ones out and the new ones in. The other type have the hinges inside the oven itself between the outside of the oven cavity and the outer panel. With those you pull out or remove the wall oven and look at the back and underneath for the screws. Remove the side panels, remove and replace the hinges.
Door Mounted Hinge
Side Mounted hinge
your Maytag range has only a single heating element located at the top of the oven, it is likely a "broil" element, which is used primarily for cooking food close to the top of the oven. The lower heating element, which is typically used for baking and roasting, may be hidden beneath the oven floor or located at the bottom of the oven.
If your oven is not getting very hot, it is possible that the broil element is malfunctioning and needs to be replaced. However, if the oven is not heating evenly or is not getting hot enough to cook food properly, it may be a more complex issue related to the temperature sensor, the control board, or other components.
To diagnose and repair the issue, it is recommended to have the range serviced by a qualified technician, who can properly identify the model and locate the faulty component. The model number of your range can typically be found on a label inside the oven door, on the back of the range, or on a storage drawer beneath the oven.
Check the voltage to the oven. Also, check the contacts on the oven relay. (If the relay shows signs of having been overheated, the contacts are probably bad, but not every bad contact will cause visible overheat damage.)
Inspect all of the connection terminals in the wiring from the inlet power to the controller relay to the heating elements. A poor connection will overheat the wire but prevent proper heating of the element. Heavily oxidized or loose terminals should either be cleaned up or replaced. Since you say both elements have the problem, I would start first with the input power connection. That includes turning off the breaker to the oven and checking the wall socket.
If you have aluminum wiring to the wall socket, the connection may need to be redone. First verify that the socket is marked for aluminum wiring (Al or Al/Cu). Aluminum wire connection requires great care: the wire must be cleaned to expose shiny metal, then immediately coated with a special grease made for aluminum wiring before insertion into the socket terminals, and the terminals must be torqued to specification. Otherwise, you will eventually have a poor connection and possible fire hazard. If you don't see any grease on aluminum wire, that could be the problem. If you have copper wire, standard wiring procedures apply.
To change: Press and hold BROIL for 5 seconds. A tone will sound, and "°C" or "°F" will appear on the display. Repeat to change back.I think the oven must be working to do it, otherwise contact the manufacturer for advice.
Could be in the oven switch , get a voltmeter and trace it through till you find the fault , it could cost a fortune if you just keep throwing parts at it . that is not the way to repair things , find the fault first .
If you used a meter for the test it could well be faulty , best to test it under load , I use a battery powered trouble light , safer than mains power .
