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The first thing to do is to drain the fresh water tank. Drain the hot water heater. Install the RV antifreeze by allowing the water pump to be pumped into the water lines by opening the valve for this process. Open each water valve on all the sinks and the toilet valve as the RV antifreeze is being sucked into the water system and run until the color changes to the color of the antifreeze. Allow each trap to have antifreeze in it also, sinks, shower drain etc. Remove the inline water filter if one is installed and install the bypass plug in its place.
I actually am not able to get rid of the antifreeze taste from the water system so I blow air into the hot water tank drain at a low pressure until all the valve at each place water is controlled. Do not forget the outside sprayer and the shower hose and the shower head.
I allow the pressure to build up to 20 psi or so and then go into the unit and open each faucet until all the water is pushed out of the lines. Then I dump antifreeze into each P trap. Do not use the antifreeze used in the engine cooling system but the non toxic type made especially for RV water systems.
did you turn on the hot water heater? water pump? limited,, and there is a nice dutchmen owners dot org site which I belong to,, alot of smart guys. good luck
If you don't have a hot water heater winterizing bypass kit installed,get one before going any further.
Next, drain the water out of the hot water tank. Add POTABLE (not automotive) anti freeze to the water system Run run faucets one at a time both hot and cold, toilet and shower head until you see the anti freeze . Next, shut off the water pump and open the faucets. This saves any chance of cracked water lines. When you want to use the trailer again, close the bypass valves on the hot eater tank and run the pump long enough to remove the antifreeze solution from the system. Fill the water tank and run the faucets for a few minutes. Potable antifreeze won't make you sick so there's no worry if you don't get it all out of the system.
Connect the trailer to the city water supply, turn on the water and open each faucet until clean clear water is present. Don't forget the toilet and outside shower if equipped. Next reinstall the anode rod (suburban) or drain plug (atwood) into the water heater. Go to the back side of the water heater and close the valve on the pipe that connects the cold (bottom line into water heater) and hot (upper line out of the water heater) and then open the bottom cold water line valve and, if equipped, the upper hot water valve. This will fill the water heater. Open the hot water valve at the kitchen faucet. When the water flow is steady the water heater is full and ready for use. If the unit is equipped with a water filer, after all is flushed out, turn the water off and remove the filter housing. Install a new filter and re-secure the housing and turn the water back on. If you are using the fresh water pump, it is possible that the winterizing valve for the pump was left open. If so, close that valve which will divert the pump back to drawing from the tank.
Double check that by-pass valves are in proper position, as well as any winterizing valve is in the off position. Some units have a winterizing valve and hose to put in jug for winterizing, that needs to be shut off otherwise it will suck air. Back of water heater- lower fitting is for cold water in, valve should be open, and top fitting is for hot out, which should be open as well. Any valves that may be in between those 2 lines such as a "t" between lines should be in off position. Keep in mind, water heater has to fill first before any good pressure will come out taps. I normally open bathtub hot tap because it\'s less mess and let it run until i get good steady flow from faucette, then do the rest, hot cold.
Water heater must be FULL of water first. Be sure to bleed all air out of hot water lines all throughout the unit. Check water in heater by purging the PT valve at the top. (The one with the little lever). If no water comes out, there is no water in the heater. You can't heat water is there's none in it to heat!
It is possible that there is an open valve on the back of the water heater which is allowing the hot and cold to mix. Locate the back of the water heater. You will see a water line going into the bottom of the water heater. That is cold water in and there will be a valve on that line. It should be open (The handle inline with the direction of the pipe). At the tope there will be another pipe coming out. That is the hot water out. It may or may not have a valve but if it does make sure that it is open. Then there will be a water line connecting the top and bottom water lines and it will have a valve in it. Make sure that the valve in this line is closed. That is a winterizing bypass valve. If this does not correct the problem let me know and I will give you more steps to consider.
At the back of the water heater there will be a series of valves. One on the bottom, sometimes one on the top and then one in a line that connects the top to the bottom lines. Make sure the middle valve is closed and the top and bottom valves are open. If there is not a valve on the top that can be manually opened and closed then there is a check valve installed. This check valve will allow the hot water out of the tank but will prevent the back flow of cold water during the winterization bypass. If the valve on top is closed it will not allow hot water out. If the middle valve is opened it will allow the cold water to mix with hot water and defeat the purpose having a water heater. Close the middle open the top and bottom. If there is not one on top then the check valve is probably clogged or has failed and need to be cleaned or replaced.
check to see if setiment has settled on the pilot....blow it out with air if it has. This issue comes up often with water heaters and rv refers. If that is not the problem and the pilot remains lit, but never increases when the thermostat is turned up, you probably need a new gas valve/thermostat.
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