What are common problems with the 2000 jayco 3310?
Most forums regarding the Jayco Sunnybrook 3310 have positive feedback. Just like buying anything of that age, you need to examine it thoroughly, inside, outside, topside, underside and in every panel where components, switches, valves or other items may be hidden.
The roof is where I like to start:
Is it new, recently replaced or several coats of sealant that looks like it was whitewashed, is the surface smooth or can you see the support ribs at regular intervals. Look at the AC units and the typical drainage stains from the frame tray. Also check along edges for cracks in the silicone or caulking. If you see fresh lap seal, make sure to examine the same area on the inside for evidence of water leakage.
Next, check the sides and nose.
The same applies for fresh silicone or caulking. Be sure to look closely at the fiberglass gel coat; it should be a clean and smooth surface. Look down the sides lengthwise to see any deformations, dips or roses that should be flat. Small spideweb looking surfaces are showing the start of more extensive fiberglass repairs that will be needed later. Silicone or caulking around the windows also need checking.
Undercarriage.
Crawl underneath with a good LED flashlight. Anything over 100 lumens with fresh batteries will be perfect to see problems. Framing, to include dents, cracks and rust. Any fuel lines that may be present for a generator, if so equipped, regardless of the type of fuel used. Tires; general condition, wear patterns, cracking or wheel damage. Springs; rust or corrosion, cracks in the metal, especially on the longest leaf that has the eyelets. A heavy, tripple axle like mine with 6 leafs are not expensive but the cost of replacements and repairs when one snaps can definitely run a vacation. Shocks; brake new or do they look like OEM that are worn out. Shocks that do not rebound properly will cause extensive stress on your leaf springs and eventually snap, which may then cause a tire to blow followed by body damages and another ruined vacation. Besides; you should have electric brakes. With the detaching pin removed and why wheel off the ground, try rotating a wheel. You should have slight resistance. If it sounds free and you do not hear anything, brakes need adjusting or possibly replacement. Jacks and legs; make sure they are smooth when cranking by hand and no resistance unless under a load from the camper. The front legs (jack stands) and wheels support the camper, scissor jacks in the rest stabilize the back end. The front legs are electric and should also be smooth to operate. A dead/life battery will not work well and need charging or replacement. 5th wheel; or to be more precise, the frame attaching point for the 5th wheel, rust, cracks, corrosion and bird nesting up inside the neck. Cable connector; hook it up to a truck to check lighting functions. All side markers, tail lights, primer light, turn signals and brake lights should work, just like it would to pass a state vehicle inspection.
As you can see by the details I have already provided, it is quite extensive to do a good inspection to protect yourself. If they tell you it was inspected, that just means they took care of anything that is noticeable or was too obvious to leave undone. Do the same for the inside, like you would your home or cars and especially storage areas and access panels. If I was being paid to inspect the unit, it would take me 1-1.5 hours if everything goes well, longer if issues are found.
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