Remove the engine cover, find the carburetor, move the choke lever, see if something moves on the carb. Generally, broken choke cables are very noticeable because they are loose.
I presume this is the first time you have used your snowmobile this year? That means you have stale fuel in it, probably condensation water unless you stabilised the fuel at the end of last season. Your main problem though is that the carburetor needs cleaning.
Hi, Andrew your instrument gauges and lights can alert you to most electrical and engine issues they can not warn you about failed engine gaskets or seals so your engine has to resort to old fashion alert methods of colored "SMOKE SIGNALS" here is a breakdown of their meaning:
1. COLORLESS OR SLIGHTLY BLUE SMOKE on start-up means your air/fuel mixture is the right composition and everything is well burnt in your combustion chamber.
2. BLUE SMOKE on startup is usually caused by failed valve seals dripping oil into the combustion chamber when the engine is not running.
3. YELLOW OR BROWNISH SMOKE at start-up means your air/fuel mixture is too lean. Too lean means that there is low fuel but high air mixture in your combustion chamber.
4. WHITE SMOKE on startup may be caused by a blown head gasket allowing coolant to enter the combustion chamber and may start dripping out of the exhaust pipes or mufflers. Smoke while riding is usually caused by worn out or damaged valves, seals, guides, pistons, rings, or cylinder walls.
5. BLACK SMOKE on startup is usually caused by too much fuel in the combustion chamber this can be due to air/fuel mixture adjustment too rich, accelerator pump improperly adjusted, faulty choke or not in the off position, air filter dirty and clogged, faulty carburetor float needle and seat, pilot jet too large, fuel injectors leaking, smoke while riding is usually caused by the main jet being too large or a damaged carburetor.
It should be noted that aggressive or abnormal throttle operation will cause these conditions to manifest themselves exponentially.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day. https://thumpertalk.com/utilities/support-those-that-support-you/?ref=aHR0cHM6Ly90aHVtcGVydGFsay5jb20vZm9ydW1zL3RvcGljLzEyMjU2MjYtd2hpdGUtc21va2Utb3V0LW9mLWV4aGF1c3Qta3RtLWV4Yy00NTAv https://ktmtalk.com/showthread.php?426647-2011-KTM-450exc-started-blowing-white-smoke-(540km-since-brand-new!!!) https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1200217/Ktm-450-Exc-R-Eu.html https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-ktm https://www.manualslib.com/manual/90440/Ktm-450-Exc-R-Eu.html
Hi, Anonymous you need to make sure you have no intake leaks by spraying some Brake Kleen, Contact Cleaner, Starting Fluid, etc. around the intake manifold and seals, if the RPM's go up or down significantly then you have a leak that needs to be fixed before you can continue with the carburetor adjustment.
The engine should be at operating temperature with the choke off to set the idle between 950-1050 rpm. Turn the idle skrew clockwise to increase the idle speed and counterclockwise to decrease the idle speed. If you have access to your air-fuel mixture skrew you may turn it as well, if not there is a video below on how to gain access, make sure you start with clean or new spark plugs. Gently turn the air-fuel mixture skrew clockwise until it starts to bottom out "STOP" do not over tighten as it will damage the taper on the end, now back the skrew out 1-1/2 full turns to establish a starting point start the engine and check the idle rpm's and turn the idle skrew accordingly for 950-1050 rpm if necessary, turn the air-fuel mixture skrew 1/4 turn at a time and let the engine settle for about 10 seconds, turn the skrew clockwise for a leaner mixture and counterclockwise for a richer mixture, you are seeking the highest rpm your air-fuel mixture skrew can acquire without going past 3 full turns from the bottom then resetting the idle skrew back down to 950-1050 rpm If you can not detect any rpm change and can not stall the engine by turning the air-fuel mixture skrew all the way in then your pilot/low-speed jet is too big and needs to be replaced with the next size smaller. Final adjustment should be made with a clean air filter mounted to the carburetor.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://thumpertalk.com/utilities/support-those-that-support-you/?ref=aHR0cHM6Ly90aHVtcGVydGFsay5jb20vZm9ydW1zL3RvcGljLzEyNzExMzktMTctMjUwLWV4Yy1mLXN0YWxsaW5nd29udC1pZGxlLw== https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zVzqqpgviyI https://www.manualslib.com/manual/90424/Ktm-Exc.html#product-250%20EXC https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-ktm https://www.manualslib.com/manual/90429/Ktm-125-Exc-Exc-Six-Days-200-Xc-Xc-W-Exc-250-Xc-Xc-W-Exc-Exc-Six-Days-300-Xc-Xc-W-Exc-E-Exc-E-Six-Days.html
Did you jump it directly from a car or did you use a booster designed for a car or truck? Some car and truck boosters can be too powerful for a bike electrical system as cars need a much higher Amp rating to turn over a bigger, heavier engine. Take it to an Auto-Electrician or bike specialist to check the other parts in the electrical system. You might have damaged either the battery or another part when you 'jumped' the bike.
Have you tried a new spark plug? You stated that the spark plug isn't "Getting Fire". Please run this test again with a spark plug that you know is working. after you verify the plug isn't receiving power. You will need a test light to run a coil test. This coil has to blade style connectors. One should have 12 volts (ign, key in run position). the other blade will be negative and should cause the test light to pulse or flash with the engine cranking over. Please write back with your results and let me know if it was the coil or that you need more information.
Casey... if you have turned your adjustment screw that much...there is no way you should have ever turned it that much...If it were me.. I would take it to a Suzuki professional and let them replace the fluid and set the adj. screws back to stock,,,you have to be a good rider to really notice a lot of difference.. and have a good sticky front tire!! Stop fooling with it!!
Hi, Sallyslayer9 and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the choke.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Quick disconnect check ball stuck.
14. Compression below 75 PSI.
15. A stuck-bent-burnt valve.
16. Improper valve clearance (too tight)
17. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
18. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
19. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
20. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections are loose or connected to the wrong cylinders.
21. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
22. Faulty neutral, clutch, kickstand safety switch.
23. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
24. Faulty or corroded run/stop switch.
25. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
26. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
27. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1232693-help-my-ktm-85-sx-isnt-starting/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d7JCyyiw2Kg https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-UgQx8CVp8JTmMwUlNMTUxERWs/view https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-ktm https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2-8B_LViIenZmtFRHE0dlE4eFU/view
Hi, Anonymous the vast majority of service, parts fiche, and owners manuals on the internet are "FREE" to download and all service manuals contain wiring diagrams in the back pages. The rest usually charge a modest fee of $15 and there is a handful of obscure, rare, obsolete, and very old models that are no longer or never were available and some were never printed in English. The Indian and Philippine markets are usually in E-book format only, for these rare occasions I shall look on eBay and find the cheapest one available. Most of the manuals will cover your exact make, model, and year otherwise one will be provided that comes as close as possible to your bike and will have most of the same info that an exact manual would have. If there is no $ sign after the manual link it is free to download.
To download your manual for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-UgQx8CVp8JV21iZFlXVlFyVjg/view https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-ktm https://www.manualslib.com/manual/90431/Ktm-125-Sx.html https://bikez.com/motorcycles/ktm_125_sx_2005.php https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/KTM
