Remove the engine cover, find the carburetor, move the choke lever, see if something moves on the carb. Generally, broken choke cables are very noticeable because they are loose.
I presume this is the first time you have used your snowmobile this year? That means you have stale fuel in it, probably condensation water unless you stabilised the fuel at the end of last season. Your main problem though is that the carburetor needs cleaning.
Did you jump it directly from a car or did you use a booster designed for a car or truck? Some car and truck boosters can be too powerful for a bike electrical system as cars need a much higher Amp rating to turn over a bigger, heavier engine. Take it to an Auto-Electrician or bike specialist to check the other parts in the electrical system. You might have damaged either the battery or another part when you 'jumped' the bike.
Have you tried a new spark plug? You stated that the spark plug isn't "Getting Fire". Please run this test again with a spark plug that you know is working. after you verify the plug isn't receiving power. You will need a test light to run a coil test. This coil has to blade style connectors. One should have 12 volts (ign, key in run position). the other blade will be negative and should cause the test light to pulse or flash with the engine cranking over. Please write back with your results and let me know if it was the coil or that you need more information.
Casey... if you have turned your adjustment screw that much...there is no way you should have ever turned it that much...If it were me.. I would take it to a Suzuki professional and let them replace the fluid and set the adj. screws back to stock,,,you have to be a good rider to really notice a lot of difference.. and have a good sticky front tire!! Stop fooling with it!!
Hi, Sallyslayer9 and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the choke.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Quick disconnect check ball stuck.
14. Compression below 75 PSI.
15. A stuck-bent-burnt valve.
16. Improper valve clearance (too tight)
17. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
18. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
19. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
20. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections are loose or connected to the wrong cylinders.
21. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
22. Faulty neutral, clutch, kickstand safety switch.
23. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
24. Faulty or corroded run/stop switch.
25. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
26. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
27. Check for engine trouble codes.
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