Rebuilt bottom end, all gears going in fine and shift pedal moving nicely, put clutch in and still ok. put back in frame and had to remove shift pedal .now i cant select any gear as will only move a small amount.good movement on clutch lever.but not sure if disengaging clutch. any advice would be great . no ball bearing in end so could be that or the **** pedal shaft moves in and out about 10mm. how can i stop this think may have popped out of place. (what size is the ball bearing required.

NO YEAR CAR TOLD. 1999? , in Africa?
ANd reverse will be the worst gear and wants to GRIND./
a stick shift car sure this is easy as the ALL are, compared to complex A/T boxes.
answering for clutch stuck ,not slipping.
I can not start in gear. or car moves. struck clutch.


the clutch slave is bad.
steps to take':
is the clutch MC (master cylinder) fluid level dropping or omg empty or oops sucking air at the bottom of its small flask (reservoir?)

is the MC leaking brake fluid at the MC juncture of the firewall
either side of fire wall? y/n if yes it s bad.MC.
now under the hood
the SLAVE , cylinder is what moves the main CLUTCH leave
does it leak fluid? dripping off its end:?
does the Slave move 1 full inch (2 persons ) as one person depress pedal clutch and 2nd looks at the slave cylinder. rod.
it most move fully 25mm. if not MC or SLAVE are bad. or both are.
OK above passes
clutch is bad.

ask questions,
see the slave move here super short video

http://fixkick.com/videos/FLV-all/showtime.html#CLUTCH

if you let the MC run dry ,it must not be bleed to work again with new fluid. (just like brakes and for the same reasons)

confusion here
you are saying that with the foot of the clutch pedal you can shift gears ok but when you put your foot on the clutch pedal , the car moves
it that a correct interpretation of your statement
if so it is not possible for a clutch to act as you state

the reason for hard shifting and selection when running is that the clutch shaft ( input shaft) is still turning even though the clutch pressure plate is released
it can be from oil/grease on the fly wheel /pressure plate face causing it to stick when hot
it may be from sticking clutch plate on the splines binding when hot
or it could be a dry spigot bush or failed bearing in the end of the crankshaft that positions the clutch shaft
check the pedal height adjustment and the position it is from the floor when starting to engage
It may be adjustment under the dash

a stick shift.
ok ill do stick shift 101..... (repaired many a box i have)
first off it can be 3 things, the stick bad. the box and the clutch.
so can you shift all gears , engine off, and parked.?
Q1: yes/no.?
if yes, can you shift to 2nd gear, parked & engine off
and then start engine and move in second gear using the clutch pedal.?
ill stop here, as most get lost , if i post the full diagnosis..... end.
we can go way beyond this. easy.

do you mean it wont go into gear ? if so what gears ? it could be the clutch going out , if the pedal is soft or easy to push down than it probably needs a clutch. next time it wont go into gear try pumping the clutch or putting it from 2nd to 1st or what ever gear it has problems with

Stick a magnet on your pedal and if it doesn\'t stick then it\'s the OEM pedal and should be replaced with the steel pedal.

Pontiac had this \'awesome\' idea to make the clutch pedal out of aluminum and after 20 years the pedal actually starts to bend and bottom out on the floorboard before giving you all of the travel necessary to disengage the clutch. Fierostore.com sells a replacement pedal for about 50 bucks. This is the first place I would start since it is what fixed my 1986 Fiero GT 4spd.

If the problem is still manifesting then move onto bleeding/replacing the clutch master/slave cylinders.

I\'ve also seen the brackets on the transmission that the shift and select cables attach to have worn out and introduced a bunch of slop in the shifter, but this is less common.

I\'ve also seen the clutch release bearing seize because of a broken release bearing fork slipping around the collar and grabbing the freely rotating part of the bearing. This then leads to pressure plate fingers breaking off and soon no matter how hard you push, the clutch won\'t disengage. Tranny has to come out. Seen this once.

And last but not least, I\'ve also seen a nut on the inside of the transmission shift/select shaft come loose and leave the tranny stuck in the 3/4 fork. Seen this one time 5 years ago.

Good luck,

Rebel Faggioli

This may be a clutch problem or a cluthch slave, what is happening is the transmission is not completely stopped spinning, so as you try to go into gear the clutch is not disengaged completely. this can be due to a bad slave or master.

The fluid for the clutch master, make sure its full. if low then you may have a leak. if low fill and pump pedal a few times to see if that helps.

If clutch master is low or full go to trany and locate the cltuch release fork on the transmission at the end you will see clutch slave, make sure there are no leaks. have someone push clutch pedal as you watch the fork move. make sure it move the distance. if its leaking then its bad.


The last thing would be the clutch pressure plate or disc, this is hard to see without removing transmission, If something broke away from cluch plate and is jammed against plate this will keep traany spinnig, but it would also be hard to get into first.

If you can start car in neutral and put into 1st gear without a problem then thats confusing, but if it is hard to go into first also then its in the clutch system. i am guessing you are in first with clutch down when starting and then its hard to get into other gears. good day.

I am a bit uncertain what you are saying. You didn't really say what the problem is. I think you are saying that you put on a new clutch cable and new clutch springs and new clutch plates and you are still having trouble shifting the gears. If the problem is that the shift pedal is hard when you push down and / or when you lift upward, The problem is a bent shift fork in the transmission. Doing the clutch is not going to help. To fix a bent shift fork, the engine comes out of the frame, gets flipped upside down, the shift shaft and some other assemblies will need to be removed then the bottom half of the crankcase is removed. This will allow access to the shift drum and shift forks. Getting parts may be a problem. What year is the bike? Do not re-post your problem. Just do a reply. I will see if I can help you. Below is a generic diagram I made to show how the shift forks move the slider gears left and right to change gears. Please rate my answer. Thanks.

if you rebuilt your carburetors you have made a mistake when you reassembled them a carb must sprsy a fine mist of "dry" fuel into the engine intake your carbs are flooding you need to check your fuel floats , jets and, don't forget to check the power piston circuit and, balance (sync) your carbs on the bike when you're done
your chuch is fine if you did not touch it

I will bet it grinds when you try to engage first or reverse. When this happened on my car, I adjusted the clutch and it improved. You need about a half inch of free play when you first touch the pedal with your foot. If you have a slave cylinder, (hydraulic clutch). You may need to bleed the system. With air in the system, you can't get enough clutch to fully disengage the trans from the motor.(Clutch and pressure plate) It's like you only pushed down half way on the pedal. If it's not hydraulic, it should be adjusted with wrenches. If clutch is fine, It could be a loose shift linkage. It would seem extra sloppy when moving shifter, It would just not go in gear, with out the grinding.Hope this helps. lbreen