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Re: Hi what is the correct chain tension is 15-20mm ok
On every Bike I have every owned or worked on. The recommended tension is about 1/2-5/8 of an inch in the middle of the chain. 15-20mm may be a little loose go to about 13-17mm and you will be fine
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You may have the chain tensioner set a little too tight.
Additional things to check:
The sprocket on the end of the guide bar is greased, and turning smoothly.
The chain brake is working correctly (not dragging or only partially disengaging).
The guide bar is straight, not bent or twisted, burr free, and the groove the chain travels in hasn't been squeezed together.
The chain tension is set correctly.
The chain oiler is functioning correctly (and you have a sufficient amount and correct type of bar oil).
Chain is in good condition, and the correct one for the saw. Make sure all of the links flex smoothly.
Chain is sharp. A dull chain will put more pressure on the guide bar because the cutting teeth aren't digging into the wood efficiently (and usually a person pushes harder on the saw when the chain is getting dull).
Adjusting Chain Tension and Alignment on a StarTrac NXT
In this video, we show how to tension and align the chain and flywheel on a StarTrac NXT bike
First you see an example of a chain that is way too loose
To correct this loosen the flywheel bolt on both sides of the flywheel
Loosen the tension nut on the sprocket side of the bike and tighten the tension bolt until you get the proper deflection on the chain
A properly tensioned chain will have roughly 3/16" of deflection
Tighten the tension nut and the flywheel nut on both sides as shown in the video
Check the Alignment of the Chain and Sprockets after Making a Chain Tension Adjustment
Misaligned chains will look like they are walking from side to side where they enter and leave the sprockets
This can cause noise, premature wear, as well as making the chain look to be jumping from side to side during use
To correct this, loosen the flywheel nut on both sides of the flywheel, then loosen the tension nut and adjust the tension bolt to move the flywheel in the proper direction needed to align the chain with the flywheel sprocket, as seen in the video
Note: If you have already achieved proper tension of the chain, adjusting the tension nut on the opposite side from the sprocket will help to keep the same tension on the chain
Don't forget to check the chain tension after making an alignment adjustment
Hi Sean:
To adjust the chain tension you need to move the rear wheel.
That involves slacking off the axle nuts, turning the nuts equally on the adjusters until you get the required tension, and then tightening the axle nuts. You should also check the prake pedal for correct amount of free play after doing a chain adjustment.
Hi!
Actually the timing chain should last for AT LEAST 100.000 miles, but I would say for even more miles.
Now my questions, just to give you the right answer:
1. Do you have at least 100.000 miles under the hood?
3. Which engine do you have in the car?
2. Why do you want to change it? Do you hear a kind of rattling sound coming from the engine? If yes, then you probably just have to correct the tensing of the chain. It is getting tensioned automatically but sometimes the tensioner of the timing belt gets bad, in this case you have to change only the tensioner itself. But if you are around 100.000 or more miles, I'd change the chain too.
Please give me a bit more details so I can help you, I can upload also a documentation how to change the bad timing chain tensioner and the chain too. Changing the CHAIN is not that easy as you do not have too much place to work, and you have to dismount many things. But again, just answer the 2 questions and I'll send you the correct instructions.
Check that the chain brake is in disengaged position by moving the front hand guard towards the front handle. Remove the bar nuts and remove the clutch cover (chain brake). Take off the transportation ring. Fit the bar over the bar bolts. Place the bar in its rearmost position. Place the chain over the drive sprocket locate it in the groove on the bar. Begin on the top edge of the bar.
Make sure that the edges of the cutting links are facing forward on the top edge of the bar. Fit the clutch cover (chain brake) and locate the chain adjuster pin in the cut-out in the bar. Check that the drive links of the chain fit correctly on the drive sprocket and that the chain is in the groove on the bar. Tighten the bar nuts finger-tight. Tension the chain by turning the chain tensioning screw clockwise using the combination spanner. The chain should be tensioned until it does not sag from the underside of the bar. The chain is correctly tensioned when it does not sag from the underside of the bar, but can still be turned easily by hand. Hold up the bar tip and tighten the bar nuts with the combination spanner. When fitting a new chain, the chain tension has to be checked frequently until the chain is run-in. Check the chain tension regularly. A correctly tensioned chain ensures good cutting performance and long life.
Take off the nuts on the two bolts at the back of the bar near the engine.... Pull the cover off, remove the bar and take the old chain off... Then making sure to place the chain going the correct direction, place the chain over the bar and then the bar over the bolts and the chain around the sprocket... Replace the cover and the nuts and readjust the chain tension.... You may have to loosen the tension-er to get the new chain to fit on properly... they normally are a bit smaller then an older chain that has stretched...
Ok to get correct tension on chain, basically loosen it a little until the chain on the underside of the bar is hanging a little... Now start tightening it up again. Basically you want the chain (the main part of each link) to be just touching the the underside of the bar. This will give correct tension... Note that chain does expand as it heats up so it may loose tension... so this is perhaps best done when the saw and chain has warmed a little. Also, new chain will stretch a little naturally so check tension each tme you use the saw.
If you do not know hoe to sharpen a chain properly, it is best to get someone else to sharpen it, or buy a new chain... Eventually all chains will need to be replaced because they can only be sharpened so many times before the cutting teeth become too small to work effectively or safely.
As for oil, if it is an electric chain saw, you only need chain/bar oil. Any good name branded bar/chain oil designed for chainsaws will work well.
Hi Sally, I guess you don't have the owners manual. It tells you how to adjust chain tension. If you look around near the motor side of the bar, you should see two nuts that hold a bracket tight against the bar and an adjustment screw or bolt or something to loosen or tighten the chain by moving the bar or making it longer or shorter. Adjust that so that the bar is as short as possible and put the chain back in place. Then tighten that feature till the chain is snug again and tighten the two nuts to hold the bar firmly.
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