On a 2006 chevy silverado i install new shocks. do i bottom out the front shock bushing thats located at the top of the shock.

check shock bushings and shock shaft play, the shaft that moves up and down inside the shock and is attached at the top mounting, as a problem with either can cause a noise.

Just the shock bolt is enough to get these out. One on top and one on the bottom. Take note of the rubber bushings positions for when you put the new ones back on.

The description is vague. If you are asking if shocks from a 2001 Chevy Silverado, K1500 will fit a 1995 Chevy Silverado K1500, the answer is no (on front and rear shocks). I also looked up a 2001 Chevy S10 4wd and a 1995 Chevy 4wd. The answer is yes (on front and rear shocks). I hope that helps but if not please write back with the exact two vehicle descriptions.

typically a washer will be installed on the shock, then the isolator, jounce, or bushing will be installed, then the other washer will go over that, and then the nut will be installed to tighten everything up.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

The struts model (MacPherson Strut),are both in front and back of this car.
2000 - 2006 Hyundai Elantra Shock Absorber and Strut Assembly - Rear, Driver Side, KYB GR-2/EXCEL-G, Twin tube, Strut Assembly. $72
2000 - 2006 Hyundai Elantra Shock Absorber and Strut Assembly - Rear, Passenger Side, KYB GR-2/EXCEL-G, Twin tube, Strut Assembly $68
1996 - 2006 Hyundai Elantra Shock Absorber and Strut Assembly - Front, Driver Side, KYB GR-2/EXCEL-G, Twin tube, Strut Assembly $67
1996 - 2006 Hyundai Elantra Shock Absorber and Strut Assembly - Front, Passenger Side, KYB GR-2/EXCEL-G, Twin tube, Strut Assembly $63
Of course this is only the cartridge, you have to transfer the spring, and the top mount of the existing strut. You need a pair of coil spring compressor to do the job. The basic procedure to replace a strut is:
Remove the top nuts that secure the strut assembly to the frame mount inside the engine compartment. Do not remove the center nut.
Mark the lower strut mounting location on the hub for installation reference. The alignment will be close if the new strut is installed in the same position.
Remove the bolts that hold the strut assembly to the hub.
Remove the strut assembly from the vehicle.
Mark the top mount for installation reference. Using a side mounted spring compressor, compress the spring and remove the top nut and retaining washer. Pull strut assembly out from the bottom of spring.
Slide the new strut assembly up into the spring and reposition the top mount onto the spring in the same position that it was removed. Install the retaining washer and top nut.
Tighten the top nut to the manufacturer's specifications and carefully remove the spring compressor.
Place the strut assembly back into the vehicle.

Shocks come with curved washers that are pretty thick. It sure sounds like the right side is just that: right.

there's 2 bolts per shock; 1 top and 1 bottom. unbolt the bottom ones first and then the top and they will fall out. You may have to tap them out with a rubber mallet. install the new ones top sides first so you don't have to hold it up while putting in the bottoms. and one bottom mount is on each side or the read axel. (front and back side) You'll see what I mean if you just look under the truck from behind.

Well first you need a floor jack to put under bottom a-frame, then unhook shock from bottom a-frame or take off completely its up to you, unhook sway bar from bottom a- frame, and remove caliber off rotor and hang it off to the side, when all thats done you will have to pop the bottom ball joint, then you can put in new axel. Should not take more than 2 hours to do.

Hi,
This could be a combination of things. I'll suggest them and see how you go.

The tyre pressures have the most effect on road noise. Strangely there is more transmitted noise when tyre pressures are correct. Under inflation cuases a cushioning effect, whereas over inflation can make the tyre profile balloon reducing road contact.
Check that they are in limit.

Tyre tread profile can produce a humm if there are straight lateral bars. Good designs use offset bars to reduce this effect.

Cover any loadspace, and ensure sound deadening panels are in place.

Shock absorber top and bottom bushes come in different relilliancies. Hard provide tighter handling - but allow more road noise, soft absorbs noise, but allows more roll.
These bushes harden over time - thus transmitting more noise.

Shock absorber seals can swell enough to make a shock "sticky" - thus transmitting more noise.

Other suspension bushes likewise harden and become more solid with age.

So, - If it is bothering you, Check tyre pressure and condition. Cover loadspace with sound deadening material - A rubber mat in the boot works wonders.
Inspect rear shocks for wear/ corrosion.
Remove and replace bushes with new.
Replace shocks with new if required.
Inspect suspension bushes, & replace if cracked or perished.

This should solve the problems for you.