Will a lower fork leg{R/H} from an suzuki gn125

You can get the Suzuki GN 125 Service Manual PDF by clicking on this link.
I hope this helps

No as the fender mouting brackets are on the lower fork legs.

Maybe- are the diameter of the fork legs the same and are the fork leg measurements the same centre to centre?

Its possible but hard to answer with out the above information.

Remove front wheel, brake calliper etc . Undo top and bottom yoke pinch bolts and slide out fork leg. Clamp chrome tube in a soft jawed vice and remove top nut carefully as it is under some load and will fly away, (but its not too much you can hold it with your hand). Tip out remaining oil slowly so as to not loose spacer on top of main fork spring. Clamp lower aluminium leg in vice by calliper mounts and remove allen screw in extreme end (if the wheel spindle was in you couldnt see it) This is the only part that might be a problem as the inner end may turn. An impact wrench may help or if not a simple broom handle shoved up the other end is often enough. Once this bolt is removed the leg will split. Now lever out the dust cover to reveal the wire circlip holding in the fork seal. Remove the clip and lever out carefully the old fork seal. Fit new seal using a large socket and mallet or something similar and reassemble in reverse order, not forgetting to add correct amount of new fork oil.

Remove front wheel, undo the upper & lower triple clamp bolts that hold the fork legs & slide out, fit boots & refit

Ride safe
Bike-Doc

hi, the obviouse thing here is to get a manual, however if you think you have the finess required to do the job its fairly straight forward, put bike on stand, raise the front wheel of ground, remove spindle from front wheel, remove calipers from forks, DO NOT REMOVE BRAKE LINES FROM CALIPERS, once you have done this you can then remove the front wheel, put spindle back through loose wheel inc spacers to keep all in place, remove front mudguard, i always tell people to try and remove the lower fork leg first leaving fork tube on the bike, some forks it is poss to do this as the busshing is fitted to the lower leg and not the chrome tube, undo the bolt in the lower fork leg on the underneath inside where the spindle fits through, once removed, using a container to catch the oil, pull dovn on the lug to remove it, if it comes of all the way you are in luck easy job, the fork can then be cleaned and new seal fitted, the manual would come in handy for fork oil levels,if the leg does not come off you will have to remove the whole leg, before you remove it undo the top nut on each leg as the yokes will hold it for you, it is difficult to undo once the fork is removed, once removed, lift up the dust seal, remove the clip, and then the spring from the top, grip the lower leg in a vice with protective jaws, on the flat surface only, to grab the tube area would damage the fork leg, once in the vice, push in the stancion fully depress and pull out sharply you may have to repeat this sevral times useing the stancion as a hammer until the seal is removed, replace in reverse order,
DO 1 FORK FIRST REASEMBLE THEN DO THE OTHER, hope this helps feel free to contact me, paul

hi its been quite a while since i have done 1 of these but if the bike has the original forks on it i am sure you can do this without removing the complete fork of the bike, after suporting your bike you can chose to completely remove the fork if you wish, i would first try it without removing the complete fork first, remove front wheel, remove front mudguard and inner stabilizer, keep all bolts together in a safe place, you will need a clean container, to catch the fork oil,(TIP) if you catch all the oil and alow time for it to drip dry you can measure the amount of oil that was in the fork by pouring it from the container into a measuring jug, this will save time if you dont know the specific amount of oil required, to drain the oil you will need a suitable alun key to undo the fork leg/tube securing bolt, you will find this in the lower of the fork leg where the wheel spindle fits, turn the key anti clockwise to undo it, hopefully it will crack loose, if it just spins and doesnt undo you may need air tools to shake it loose, once the bolt is undone secure the fork leg and remove the bolt, the oil will then desperse from the fork, moving the fork lower slowley up and down will help rifle the oil out, make sure the sealing washer is on the bolt or you may have to fish around inside the old oil for it, when you are happy all of the oil has been removed, carefuly pull the fork leg down all the way until it comes of the stanchion, pour any oil into your container, if when you pull on the leg it does not come off this will be because the fork stanchion on your bike has bushes that are fited to it, and not to the lower leg, in this case you will have to remove the whole fork, remove, the dust cover from the fork leg inside you will see a circlip remove this and washer, remove cap from fork top and pour out your oil, and fork spring noteing direction , remove the lower bolt, fix the fork lower in a vice at the very bottom of the leg wher the flat area is, do not grip tubular area,then to remove the seal you will need to push down on the fork stancion to its lowest point, and sharply pull up useing the stancion as a hammer, repeat this untill your fork seal is removed, replace in reverse order, good luck hope this helps. paul

from the service manual pour oil in until 88ml from the top, but make sure form is fully compressed before doing so

regards

Try this from sv650.org FAQ list great site try it. Quote Here's a piece for your FAQ section. Oh....OK then.... My reworking of the SV continues - just thought I would send the lazy way of changing the fork oil and adding spacers - without removing the forks! Lets face it, removing the front wheel, mudguard, calipers, forks etc is a right pain - there is a better way and it can be done in under 15 minutes! You need a thin bamboo pole about 3 foot long, 2 metres of 10mm flexible pipe, a bent nail, 1 litre of fork oil and a selection of 35mm washers. You are now ready to convert the washed out front suspension without removing the fork legs and it can be done in under 15 minutes! First loosen the fork caps, now jack up the front wheel clear of the ground. Remove the fork caps completely - dont worry about the caps popping upwards with spring tension, there is none! Remove the metal spacer tubes from inside the forks. Attach your bent nail to bamboo stick with tape, grovell inside forks and pull up to remove spacer washer, then grovel again and remove the spring. Remove bent nail, insert bamboo pole into one leg, until it goes to the bottom - careful, the bottom has a recess in, get it right and you will feel the pole go down another six inches. Pull back out and mark oil level on bamboo stick with black marker pen for reference later. Attach pipe to bamboo stick right at the end and again send to inside of forks, down into recess. Suck on pipe and all the oil will magically drain into can. Catch what can! - Whoops sorry you need a can to catch oil in! Process takes about two minutes and does remove all the oil! Drain second leg same. Pour 480ml of 15 sw oil into first leg, insert bamboo stick and careful top up to reference mark made earlier. Follow suit with second leg. (Mr Suzuki was a full 30mm different from one leg to the other in my SV - you now have two perfectly balanced legs - 489 ml is the correct amount per leg) Insert springs, then amount of washers to increase preload that you require - I inserted 15mm each side and it feels not bad. The washers must be 35mm exactly, anymore and they will not fit inside the legs. I managed to find some at 35.5mm and had to grind the .5mm off. Just drop an equal amount in each leg and top off with the original suzuki washer. Insert the spacers and tighten up the fork caps - you will have to push down hard as you tighten as your washers are now doing their job. Lower jack and burn rubber up the street! Some people prefer thicker 20 sw oil, or more spacers, around 19mm not uncommon. With the rear set on number four, the front now feels matched, doesn't flop when braking and has helped no end with the pitching (UK roads). Rates about a seven on the improvement scale. You could do better and fit aftermarket springs but not for the £8 the above cost inc the oil. So there you have it - the laziest way of uprating the SV front yet!