How do you put the thread clamp on the adjust nut the Therese clamp spping thank you

Hope this helps https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i7dYPAUl0_M

I need a picture of that clamping screw to help more

can you use a longer threaded bolt and nylox nut in its place

Tecumseh Small Engine Specifications

There is the steer tube that is pressed into the lower tree/clamp. This tube is threaded on the top so that you can put a nut on it after the upper tree/clamp to preload the headset when you install the front end.

Put the bike on a stand supporting the bottom of the frame. Remove the seat and sidepanels. Loosen the clamp on the carb to airbox boot at the rear of the carb. Loosen the muffler clamp, remove muffler mounting bolts and pull muffler. Remove the 4 rear subframe bolts. Remove the rear subframe (leave airbox and rear fender assembled in it). You are now staring at a completely exposed rear shock. Remove the shock mount bolts and remove the shock. Measure the spring adjusted length for a future starting point when the spring is put back on. Loosen both spring pre-load adjuster spanner nuts all the way. Helps if you clean the dirt off the threads and use a little lube. Pull the spring towards the spanner nuts and remove the clip ring at the opposite end spring holder. that's it.
See here

Which ever way your grinder spins when turned on is the same direction the lock nut has to be turned to remove it. This makes sure it's self tightening when in use. More often than not they're right-tight, left-loose.

Easy enough....

1. Be sure the guard assembly is securely attached to the gear case.

2. Put the backing flange onto the tool spindle

3. Place the depressed center wheel on the tool spindle as shown.

4. Thread the threaded clamp nut on tool spindle as shown.

5. Hold the tool spindle by engaging the spindle lock pin, and tighten clamp washer with wrench

To replace the boot first you have to remove the outer tie rod end form the spindle asembly. You will need a pair of wire cutters to grab the cotter pin that holds the nut in place. After the nut is removed whack the spindle where the tie rod goes into it with a ball peen hammer and the tie rod end will pop right out. Do not hit the tie rod end on the threads or you will have to buy a new one. Now you have to seperate the outer and inner tie rod ends. There is a nut holding the two tightly in place and a notch in the inner tie rod end to put a wrench on so the inner will not spin when you spin off the outer tie rod end. Mark the threads before removal so you can put it back where it was adjusted before. Loosen the nut and spin off the tie rod end. Now for the boot. There are two clamps on the boot you need to remove a small clamp and a large clamp. With the wire cutters grab these clamps and wrok them off. The new boot will come with new clamps. Always replace the clamps. Now just slide the boot off. You will need to remove the lock nut to change the boot so make sure you mark the threads on the inside so you do not wipe the mark off when you remove the nut. Now just reverse the process to reassemble. Be sure to put it back where it was adjusted before. Make sure to use a new cotter pin. When you reinstall the nut back on the outer tie rod end it is important to tighten it about one turn past snug and line up the cotter pin hole by tightening the nut do not back off the nut to align the cotter pin or it will come loose and ruin the spindle. Not that was not so hard was it. Thanks for visiting the site.

Clamp the shaft behind one wheel with 'Channelock' or 'Visegrip' pliers, then tighten both nuts. Check the new wheels for 'off-center' running by spinning them with your hand. They may fit the shaft tight enough that there is no centering adjustment--use a 'wheel dresser' (either a stone type or a multi-wheel type) to true up the wheel so that there is no radial wobble. Hope this helps!

Put the bike on a stand supporting the bottom of the frame. Remove the seat and sidepanels. Loosen the clamp on the carb to airbox boot at the rear of the carb. Loosen the muffler clamp, remove muffler mounting bolts and pull muffler. Remove the 4 rear subframe bolts. Remove the rear subframe (leave airbox and rear fender assembled in it). You are now staring at a completely exposed rear shock. Remove the shock mount bolts and remove the shock. Measure the spring adjusted length for a future starting point when the spring is put back on. Loosen both spring pre-load adjuster spanner nuts all the way. Helps if you clean the dirt off the threads and use a little lube. Pull the spring towards the spanner nuts and remove the clip ring at the opposite end spring holder. that's it.

the 2.5L V-6 has two accessory drive belts, both with tensioners (loosen the large nut in the center of the tensioner pulley, and adjust the threaded adjustment rod), and the 2.0L I-4 has a single accessory drive belt with a tensioner (loosen the clamp bolt & adjust the threaded adjustment rod).