Question about 2010 Yamaha WR250R
Hi, Yamaha wr250r has errors 24, 31, 32, when switching on, I could not reset them they appeared again. could you help me resolve this issue? vehicle running ok only check engine is flushing all the time FMF was installed several years ago, exhaust recycle was removed and flapper was fixed on air intake, no problem during this period of operation @
Hi, Sergey it should be noted that the reasons your check engine light or CEL stays on constantly or flashes and your bike will or will not start and may turnover or not, these conditions will vary from bike to bike depending on the year, make, and model and you should always refer to your owners/service manual for proper diagnostic procedures. It should also be noted that any type of prior work done to the bike or an abnormal event occurrence such as adding accessories, electrical curiosity or adventures, laying the bike down or crashes, stolen and cut ignition wires, rainstorms or bike washings just before CEL light issues started can be significant hints or aids into tracking down the gremlin, also keep in mind that your CEL comes to life if anything, and I do mean anything isn't 100% with the ECM such as parameter spikes. This means that you could be staring at a major repair, or something very minor, like your speedometer sensor, is contaminated and needs to be cleaned.
And the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery check the terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary, you should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Faulty charging system.
3. Faulty system sensor some models have up to 40 sensors
4. Faulty safety switches: run/off, ignition, clutch lever, neutral, side stand, tip over, fuel, and or their connections.
5. The engine got wet in places where it doesn't like to get wet.
6. Faulty ignition circuit spark plugs, coils, cables etc.
7. Broken wire or worn insulation exposing wire to a ground situation especially inside wire harness at tight bends around fairing brackets, under dash panels, under fuel tanks over cylinder heads etc. Many harnesses are open on the ends that will allow water to enter and accumulate at v-bends.
Dielectric grease and contact cleaner are your best friends for wire/cable/harness connectors, look for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets. Run speedometer diagnostics and check for generated fault codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
check engine light issues
Yamaha Fault Codes
Yamaha WR250R Service Manual
Yamaha WR250R Owner Manual
Posted on Oct 11, 2018
Testimonial: "Hi Gregg, thanks a lot for your comments and expert advise. Unfortunately I'm not able to check all mentioned at the moment due to far from home, but as soon as possible will try to resolve this issue, I have some idea and need to check several units for any malfunctioning. Yamaha fault codes sheet doesn't give me any explanation regarding my problem or may be I'm wrong to read them or probably they are sub codes that should be recognised by Yamaha service, so any way troubleshooting is required. I will reply with a feedback later, have a good day!"
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
My problem was solved when I repaired my 4 wd activation dash switch. The switch was contacting on 2WD & 4HI at the same time. The front differential activation is vacuum activated possibly creating a tug of war that didn't actually engage it but drained off vacuum from the engine? A theory at best but stumbbled across it because I knew the switch wasn't working properly I repaired it and low and behold rough idle disappeared and all is good for 3 weeks running.
Posted on Dec 10, 2008
Try disconnecting the battery (unhook on of the terminals) wait for like 15 mins, hook the terminal once again and start the car. I also own a 2003 Jetta and once my engine light would come on after 2 mins of driving. Disconnecting the battery is like resetting the computer and hopefully the sensor.
Posted on Jun 13, 2009
Try under the dash, attached to colum is a switch that the rod goes into from your ignition key switch, that may need to be adjusted tword your steering wheel just a touch, they go out of alignmnet from time to time
Posted on Sep 15, 2009
SOURCE: 2004 GMC Envoy.Check engine soon
This code indeed does indicate a bad thermostat, but not in a way as overheating but the coolant temperature is not rising fast enough at warm up because the stat is always in the open position.
The rushing air sound you heard was most likely the electronic fan clutch starting to go bad. This is a common problem.
Posted on Nov 24, 2010
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