Question about Yamaha XV 1900 A Midnight Star Motorcycles
Hi, Pab I would love to help you with your engine or chassis noise but I just loaned my brand new pair of listening ears to your local dealer's chief technician so he could take your bike for a test ride and give you his professional opinion and estimate about your noise and repair cost. If you are a little short on "DRACHMA" and a Dealership is not on your list of fun places to visit then perhaps the list below will help soothe your worried mind so you can make an informed decision.
3. Brake Rotors---BUZZ
7. Fronk Forks---Plunk
9. Head Gasket---HISS
10. Hydraulic Lifters---TAP
12. Rear Shocks---SQUEAK
13. Shifting Trans---CLUNK
14. Solid Lifters---TICK
16. Connecting Rods Go---KNOCK-KNOCK---who's there, it's me "*****"
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e
Posted on Feb 24, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: stuck in gear
ry useing blue LOCTITE on the pinch bolts and other fasteners to keep the shifter from vibrating loose again. I had the shift linkage vibrate loose on my Thruxton when it was new, I had to fix it on the road to get home.
Posted on Nov 10, 2008
hey dude,, just thought id come in and give u some tips or 3,, i take it when u pull clutch lever in, and try and change gear it feels like your foot will snap b4 it goes in gear,, if that makes sense,, firstly mate,is to make sure the clutch cable slides freely ,easest way is to take cable off and just grab 1 end and make sure it isnt sticky,, if so dip one end of the cable in a bit of old oil ,,whilst holdin the other end ,pull and push the cable inner, this will **** up a bit of lubricant inside the cable ,, keep doin this each end till free to move, ,,next step if the cables ok,,, and may need help if u dont no,drain the oil out,,and as u r sat on the bike is to remove the clutch casing on the right hand side of the moter,where the bottom end of the cable goes,remove the casing being carefull not damage the gasket,,then u will see clutch plates and friction plates housed,, undo the 7 or 8 spring loaded bolts carefully take the first fibre plate out then metal friction plate then another fibre plate and so on,, wen u take the 1st plate out place that on the bench ,stacking each plate on top of one another, cause they have to go back in as they came out,,wen out,,u need a piece of wet n dry paper ,or fine emery,,and just wipe round both sides of the fibre plates taking the shine off them,as u put them back in,, put casing back on with a decent gasket,, oil back in cable on, make sure cable has no free play on the lever so wen u r about to pull lever in it bite straight away,, start her up, warm it up and try it,,any probs still il eat my shoe,, take care m8
Posted on Jan 10, 2009
I have a 2000 Vulcan Nomad FI & had a very similar problem. In fact, it's a very common problem with these bikes. I fixed it by replacing the Clutch Spring. (As Described here: http://www.gadgetjq.com/clutch_spring_replacement.htm
It cost me $40 and 3 hours of time with an impact wrench.
Posted on Jan 26, 2009
Make sure that when the choke plunger is fully pushed IN
(e.g. choke off) - that the choke cable is actually slack, if it is still tight then adjust the cable till there is a little bit of slack with the plunger pushed in.
(Auto Choke)Have you tried blipping the throttle, just give it a guick stab when it's warmed up and running, be quite sharp and deliberate with the throttle, this usually cancels auto-choke if it's working properly.
try setting the idle screw on the throttle body when the engine is hot, unscrew the screw to get the desired idle speed, then let it cool (fully cool) and see if it still starts and warms up ok with the new lower setting, either problem solved or back to square 1.. (reset the idle screw back to original setting, good idea to make a note of how far you unscrewed the screw in the first place :-)
check the accelerator cable(s) are not too tight, could be holding the throttle open slightly.
check the air filter/box to see if it is clogged... clogged filter=rich mixture...
Have the engine temp/air temp/oxygen sensors (if applicable) checked out at a garage, they could be causing problems also, but are £20-60 each, if one is faulty dont get bummed for labor charges, a temp sender is a bolt with a connector on it, fit with a ring spanner in 15 seconds, just get the garage to show you which one is broken first (just so you know ;-) then when they "offer to fit it for you" just ask for the part and fit it yourself - turns a £100 job into £20-60 job.
let me know how you get on. (The Engine Guy)
Just check through everything in roughly this order, starting with "free" "easy" and moving onto "£20 - £60" - "annoying and niggly" - hopefully you get if fixed near the top of the list!
thinking... this is a great thumping engine - Are you using the correct grade fuel, try premium (97RON or better) if you've been on regular (95RON), some engines just don't like weak fuel especially big bike and performance car engines.
Posted on Jan 02, 2010
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