Harley sportster clutch

Question edited for clarity and all the typos :>D
Question moved to make / model category.

Clutch replacement. My guess is something not right.

https://www.google.com/search?q=1986+harley+davidson+sportster+883+replace+clutch+plates

Service manual

1986-03 Sportster XL XLH Service Manual

https://www.ratbikeservice.com > dwnld > 1986-03 ...
PDF
This detailed and comprehensive manual covers. 1986-2003 XL/XLH Sportster models. The text provides complete information on maintenance, tune-up, repair and.
638 pages

If it's in neutral the clutch condition has nothing to do with it. The neutral safety switch is only to prevent starting it in gear and having the bike lunge so it's not that either. It's the gears pushing the oil around which puts some amount of push on any bike, but it shouldn't be noticeable. Verify that the oil type and level is correct. Does it creep less after it's warmed up? That's because the oil thins out some and has less push on the gears.

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howdy um check your clutch oil reservor you could possibly need some 4stroke motorcycle oil have agood one

If it tries to start in any gear the the neutral safety switch is bad.

There could be several problems here. One problem could be the way you're shifting the gears. I've been riding for over 40 years and I still miss a gear every now and then due to sloppy shifiting.

If you don't think this might be the problem, you may want to check your clutch adjustment to make sure the clutch is disengaging. The easy way to tell this is to put the transmission in low gear, the start the bike with the lever held in. Does the bike lurch forward or have a strong tendency to "pull" the bike with the clutch completely pulled? If so, adjust the clutch mechanism.

Next, your shifter pawl may be getting ready to give up the ghost. These year model Sporty's are notorious for shifter pawl carrier failure. They are not difficult to replace for someone with a good basic mechanical ability.

More than likely the shifter pawl has broken. Breaking in 5th gear is kind of unusual however, they usually break between first and second.

You'll have to remove the outer primary cover to look at the shifter pawl. It's partially covered by the clutch assembly.

Old fluid or improper type. Doesn't the Sporty use the SportTrans fluid in the year? Other than that, maybe time for new clutch plates. Or the clutch spring may have lost it's spring.

You probably have to clean your clutch plates and put in new sportster gear oil.

My 2004 Sporty shift pedal is "notchy" especially when cold (allow 20-30 sec. of idle after starting) to allow time for oil to wet the shift forks and gear assemblies before shifting into first driving off. Also when down shifting, I usually do NOT use engine/trans gear braking on the street to save wear and tear on the clutch and running gear...brake pads are a lot easier (and cheaper) to replace over the long haul

Big Twins clunk too, especially into 1st with a cold motor, even if you free the clutch off first. When I remember, I snick it into gear, pull in the clutch and roll it back and forward to free off the plates. And it still clunks. Sometimes, you will slip from neutral into 1st, almost with no effort, and no clunk and so smooth you don't believe it's engaged (but it is). Weird. I have smooth changes from 4th to 5th and back again, sometimes from 3rd to 4th, but 3rd to second and second to 1st are always a BIG clunk, even if you give it some stick to try and match the revs before changing down. I now go from second to neutral and then into 1st, which is not a lot of fun when you are negotiating a hairpin on Glenquaich at the time... A tighter primary chain seems to reduce the clunk, and there are those who say that auto primary adjusters/tensioners (does a Sporty have one of them?) reduce the clunk. Some disagree... Assume you find it's much better when it's hot..