Where
Item
Part Number
Description
1
5310
Front Coil Spring
2
18124
Front Shock Absorber
3
3A130
Tie Rod End
4
1104
Wheel Hub
5
3K185
Front Wheel Knuckle
6
3078
Front Suspension Lower Arm
7
5482
Front Stabilizer Bar
8
5K484
Stabilizer Bar Link
9
N806899-S60
Bolt (4 Req'd)
10
5486
Stabilizer Bar Bracket
11
5484
Rack and Pinion Mounting Bracket Insulator (2 Req'd) (Position Slits Toward Front of Vehicle)
12
W520214-S60
Nut (2 Req'd)
13
N807144-S60
Nut (2 Req'd)
14
N803990-S60
Bolt (2 Req'd)
15
N806364-S60
Nut (2 Req'd)
16
N808466-S428
Nut (2 Req'd)
17
N808391-S100
Bolt (2 Req'd)
18
N807089-S101
Nut (2 Req'd)
19
W500746-S426
Bolt (2 Req'd)
20
W520214-S60
Nut (2 Req'd)
21
N804608-S1428
Nut (2 Req'd)
22
N804002-S100
Washer (2 Req'd) (Dished Side Up)
23
18183
Front Shock Absorber Mounting Bracket (2 Req'd)
24
3B455
Front Suspension Bearing and Seal (2 Req'd)
25
N811008-S100
Washer (2 Req'd)(Dished Side Up)
26
N803766-S60
Nut (6 Req'd)
A
—
Install With Color Code at Bottom of Link
—
Green—RH Side, Red—LH Side
B
—
Tighten to 30-40 Nm (22-29 Lb-Ft)
C
—
Notches and Stamped "Front" Toward Front Of Vehicle
D
—
Tighten to 47-63 Nm (35-46 Lb-Ft)
E
—
Tighten to 77-103 Nm (57-75 Lb-Ft)
F
—
Tighten to 98-132 Nm (72-97 Lb-Ft)
G
—
Tighten to 68-92 Nm (50-67 Lb-Ft)
H
—
Tighten to 53-72 Nm (39-53 Lb-Ft)
SOURCE: right rear shock absorber detached from the top mounting point
Turns out that after 26 years and 233 thousand miles, the original strut gave up the ghost: Rust! I took the shock strut assembly out of a 'spare parts' Honda Accord I keep and replaced the broken one in the Honda I am now driving. Mechanically the car is still excellent, but the car is destined to dissolve around me! To remove the whole assembly required taking out one 14mm bolt at the bottom and three 12mm bolts at the top, some WD 40, several pieces of wood for leverage and a heavy mallet.. Since there is a heavy duty coil spring involved, one should take out the bottom bolt first and lift the bottom of the strut free from its position, ( this is where I used a long 2x4 and another piece of wood as the fulcrum point to pry the strut upward) Then undo the top 3 bolts and the whole unit falls out. You will also need to detach the brake fluid line that uses the strut itself as an anchor. The easiest way is to take the line off from the back of the brake drum housing ( 9mm nut) and remove the horseshoe clip and push the curved metal brake line through the small hole where the line is anchored to the strut. Use care as you will need to reattach the brake line again after installing the next shock strut. (Coil spring compression tool required) Needless to say, you will need to jack the car up and remove the rear tire first to access the whole thing.
SOURCE: how do you compress a shock absorber spring
You need a special tool to compress the spring and these are available from the auto shop. Make sure you get a good quality one and be very careful it doesn't slip because there is a lot of stored energy when the spring is compressed.
SOURCE: A6 front shock absorbers
Any vehicle that now incorporates strut suspension need spring compressors however be very careful which ones you use, the ones that have the two/three clamping arms are not recommended and can land you in the hospital when they slide off the spring as they always seem to do, rather use the big onne piece tool that encompasses the whole strut assembly into it and securley relieves the tension off the strut to be replaced.
Happy Motoring!!
5,198 views
Usually answered in minutes!
Front spring and shock assembly diagram, front of car.
×