Your starter button is a two position switch. The lights are supposed to go dim when the button is pushed halfway in. When pushed in all the way it should activate the starter solenoid. The starter solenoid is located under the seat next to the battery. You can follow the positive battery cable directly to the starter solenoid. If you push the starter button and the starter solenoid clicks, then the starter button is good. If the you unplug the two smaller wires going to the starter solenoid and connect a voltage meter to the main harness leads , the needle should jump whenever you press the starter button. If it does not clean the button contacts or replace the right switch assembly. If the starter button is good then take a jumper wire and short across the two battery cables on the starter solenoid. This will put power directly to the the starter. If the starter works now replace the starter solenoid. If your starter still does not work, try holding the starter button and tapping on the starter with a plastic hammer. If the starter works now then you probably need to replace the starter brushes. If anything else is wrong with the starter you will need to replace the assembly as the dealer will usually only offer the starter brushes for repair purpose.
no. At idle teh alternator is probably putting out less volts, At higher idle you should get higher voltage charging the battery, lights should get brighter.
Try putting the bike in gear when this happens and rock it until you reposition the pistons, then hit your starter and see what happens. ( If you are up against the compression stroke, then you wait a few seconds it gives it time to bleed down the compression.)
Hi, Chrscamp2 before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Is this major prob In the charging system Suzuki Volusia Forums Intruder...HOW TO CHECK YOUR CHARGING SYSTEM and CHANGING the STATOR and REGULATOR...Suzuki Intruder VZ1500 Service Manualhttps://www.partsfish.com/oem-parts-for-suzukiSuzuki VZ1500 Owner Manual
