20 Most Recent 2001 Suzuki GZ 250 Marauder Questions & Answers

one of the power wire leads to one of the turnsignals is pinched to ground

could be in the petcock bowl

it sounds like the clutch is dragging,either it is not adjusted properly or the clutch friction or metal plates are warped and acting like wave washers.you should have about 2mm of free play at the end of the clutch lever when its not being pulled in.also too thick an oil in the engine in it like 20/50 it should be using 10w 40 semi synthetic oil.does it try to pull forwards with the clutch in slightly when you put it in gear ?

Hi, Check the side stand switch and switch on clutch lever. Both can cause problems. In this case the switch on the clutch lever may well be sticking and the engine is being stopped because the system believes you have started the bike in gear with the clutch engaged. ( Which is obviously not the case) Cleaning / spraying with WD 40 or similar in the area of the switch may be all that is needed. Hope this helps Regards Stan

Drain the carb with the gas valve on the tank turned off. Now turn the valve back on and see if gas again begins to flow out of the float bowl. If no gas drains with the valve open then remove the fuel line at the carb and check to see that fuel flows freely through the fuel line. If gas flows freely out of the fuel line then the float needle is stuck closed or trash is plugging up the needle jet assembly. If so, remove the float bowl and free up the needle. Use spray carb cleaner and the little "straw" that comes with the can to direct the spray into the float needle fitting. Fuel should flow when the float is down and stop flowing when the float is lifted. Pull a spark plug and ground the metal against the cylinder. Check for spark. If there is no spark then check the operation of the kill switch on the side stand and the handlebar. Use a multimeter to check the switches. Get fresh gas and install an in-line fuel filter to keep any trash out of the carb. Clean the air filter. Please rate my answer. Thanks.

if you heard the tapping noise even after the engine warmed up i suspect your valve clearances are out of spec. i would check these or send it to a reputable shop to do this for you.

What i would do is either get some biger screws and re thread it or get some thread fixers they sale at auto zone if its not to bad though high heat sealent works good to put in the holes and around the edges.

strainers are located in the fuel petcock. check for a stuck or clogged float valve as well.

a simple carburetor balancing should do the trick. At most the fuel supply nozzle tip may need to be replaced if the nozzle has become large. finally do overhaul the carburetor too.

KN-136

Not normal at all. There should be no movement at all. The rear axle should be tight in the swingarm. I am wondering if someone left out the wheel bearings. You can look at a diagram of the wheel ( and the rest of the bike ) at the website below. Please rate my answer. Thanks.
www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/default.aspx

maybe a bad kill switch or ignition

This is a shot in the dark but a potential "fix" that won't cost anything to try is to drain the carbs. Water can condensate in the gas tank and collect in the gas tank ( at the gas valve ) and carb float bowls. Since water does not burn well as a fuel, it can cause sputtering and uneven running. Enough water build up and the bike won't run at all.

why wouldnt ya call the dealer ya need the tighting sequence on the bolts also

check compressions

HAVE A LOOK IN THE HARD WEAR STORES YOU YOU MIGHT FIND SOMETHING THAT WILL DO THE TRICK

One explanation for this would be that your charging system is faulty. It is possible that the OLD battery was ok, but was not getting charged by the faulty charge system. You put in a new battery, that is part charged before sale and ran the battery flat because it wasn't charging. If you leave a discharged lead acid bettery for 20 minutes or so, it will pick up a little again and possibly let the bike start and run, but by the time you got home you had killed the battery completely.

All the facts fit, though I'm not promising that it is the problem.

Take the battery off and charge it with a charger. Now, put it back on the bike and run the bike (It should start) While the battery is on the bike, get a volt meter on it. It should read slightly over voltage (doesn't matter if its a 12 or 6 volt system, it will read a little over when the bike is running) when you turn the engine off, you should see the volt meter drop down to the stated battery voltage. If you get no hike with the engine running and drop as you power off, its a good sign the charging system is faulty. A similar test, start the bike, meter the battery and turn on the indicators, stop light and head light to pull as much power as you can, the battery voltage shouldn't dip, because the charge system should compensate. If it does dip, consider this a confirmation that the charging system is faulty.