Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. http://www.gz250bike.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5798 HOW TO CHECK YOUR CHARGING SYSTEM and CHANGING the STATOR and REGULATOR... Suzuki GZ250 Service Manual https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki Suzuki GZ250 Owner Manual
my suggestion is to get a Haynes manual, theyre definitely worth it in my opinion saved me a few times! other than that bikes are pretty straight forward, its an internal combustion engine it works the same as every other motorcycle engine unless its a rotary engine, but that\'s a whole different story
well.. you can just buy a new choke cable? if youre having trouble sourcing a choke cable then get a universal one from ebay? and yes you can change the carb, just make sure it has the same fittings ect, and ebay is a haven for bike parts!
My Marauder was running rough until I noticed it was sparking across to the head from the HT lead. I took the spark plug cap off re aligned the HT wires that were all squished to one side, cleaned every connection attached to the coil and frame and just like magic she runs nice and smoothly now. Maybe you could just try cleaning and refitting the spark plug cap.
I'v download all the manuals from a website called www.gz250bike.com . they got everything about this bike. if you can't find it, just send me a email and i'll send you a copy. my email: firstname.lastname@example.org