the best oil is the oil recommended for the bike
any other oil may cause problems in the clutch and gear box
shock absorbers are just that and are pistons with small holes and flap valves that restrict the flow of oil through the holes on rebound
there are springs in the forks as well and the seals just stop the oil from coming out the slides
pulling down tight for transport should have no affect
hi there it sounds like your fuel filter could be blocking up or if you have a fuel pump that might be over heating or even your computer this sounds like it could be a dealers job hope it helps
it sounds like your low speed idle jets are still cloged as they are very small openings you may need to soak them in thinners then use a air compresser to blow them out ,and see if you can see through them ,i have found a steel guitar string the smallest can fit some of them hope it works cheers
no there should be no difference in the fuses but it sounds like you have more of a problem than the fuse i would recommend taking it to a kawasaki dealer or auto electrician hope this helps
I posted a similar problem on my Kawa Vulcan. The coils work, there is power, but no spark at the plugs itself. I heard that it might be a "stator pickup" problem, but waiting for an answer as well !
To your query, no, the ZZR250 should continue to idle. If the engine dies while idling, it indicates that the engine has starved for fuel which then could be caused by:
clogged / blocked idle jets;
too much air (air filter removed or replaced with open / free breathers such as those by K & N);
too little vacuum on the intake manifold hence the petc0ck closes and fuel is not allowed to flow to the carbs. Try setting petcock to PRI;
carbs are not in balance/sync.
Solution would require carb pulldown, checking / cleaning. Completely dis-assemble and soak non-rubber parts in carb cleaner. The
idea is to descale / remove the varnish like film coating that would
have developed. This would also ensure that the idle
jets are not clogged. Note how many turns the air idle mix (pilot) screw
is set to.
Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa. Happy Holidays.
sounds like you blew a set of piston rings. instead of building compression in the cylinder its pressurizing your crank case forceing the oil out the breather into your air box
The fuel mixture is probably running too lean. Old, hardened rubber seals between the carb and the cylinder are letting un-carbureted air into the fuel/air mix.
No it won't run very good, your model has CV carbs, they like that air box behind them, you will need to go to Dynojet and get a jet kit, that will likely fix our problem.
they all do it some do it straght off show room floor its the clutch basket you can adjust it but it will prob come back it does no harm mine has done it for ages
Rust buster!!!!!!1 Works great and let it soak for 24 hours if you have too. Spray it severla times and it will help you get rusted or corroded nuts off, Works like a charm. Hope this helps. TOM
Question edited heavily into written English.
Question moved to model category.
First get the battery load tested. Sometimes there isn't enough amps to turn the starter and supply enough power to the ignition as well. Check all 4 spark plugs for condition and gap.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Kawasaki+ZZR250+won%27t+start
..
I would check the spark plugs for fouling and change them out if needed. Other than that, I'd agree with Gregg and ask for more information. year of the bike, does it start and ride, is this an intermittent issue or all the time?
When you say no power through the ignition, do you mean the bike is completely dead with the ignition turned on? Nothing at all works, no lights, brake lights, indicators horn etc.?
If that is the case, then first check that the battery has a charge and the connections are all clean and tight.......and connected the right way round. My bike has a parking light position on the ignition switch and this allows the little parking lights to come on with the key removed. If yours has the same, see if that switches the light on. Do you have a permanent live outlet that you can test? If the battery has power and is connected properly and nothing lights up after doing these checks, then it is either a main fuse or ignition switch problem.
If you do have lights then at least the above is all ruled out and the problem now lies in the starting circuit. Is the kill switch set to run and if so is it working properly? By that, I mean even if it is in the starting position is it actually functioning properly and has clean contacts, all wires connected etc. The same goes for the start button.
At the solenoid there are 2 connections that you will have bolted onto when you changed it. Turn the ignition on and short across these 2 connections with a screwdriver momentarily and see if it spins the starter. If it does then the relay may be faulty. I will attach a youtube link that really explains everything in plain language and is by far the best tutorial I have come across for this type of problem.
Good luck with it all, Steve.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DYec1yFX3YI
by placing your hand over the air intake you are making the engine create a vacuum that is drawing fuel into the combustion chambers
this indicates a lack of fuel to the carby or blocked jets in the carby
look for fuel filters , blocked petrol cap , problem needle and seat or give the carby a good overhaul.
