First check for spark by using a known good plug and laying it on cylinder head while cranking. Leave the original plugs in. Do NOT remove them for this test. If no spark then either crankshaft position sensor or the ECU or the coil or system relay or fuses or wiring is faulty. If you do not have good electrical knowledge to check these out, bring it to a dealer. If good spark, then fuel must be the problem. Check to see if fuel pump runs for a few seconds when turning bike on. You shoud hear the pump running for a few seconds then stop. If the pump does not run, check system relay and fuel pump fuses. Note - the pump will only run once when turned on/off every few seconds. Bike needs to be off for at least ten seconds for next pump cycle. Check to see if faults codes are stored in ECU memory as these may lead you to the cause.
Hi, Tdeliseo I would love to help you with your engine or chassis noise but I just loaned my brand new pair of listening ears to your local dealer's chief technician so he could take your bike for a test ride and give you his professional opinion and estimate about your noise and repair cost. If you are a little short on "DRACHMA" and a Dealership is not on your list of fun places to visit then perhaps the list below will help soothe your worried mind so you can make an informed decision. 1. Bearings---SCREECH---WHINE2. Belts---CHIRP3. Brake Rotors---BUZZ4. Cam Chains---CLICK5. Clutches---CHATTER---GRIND6. Cylinders---PING7. Fairing Panels---WHISTLE8. Fenders---SCRAPE9. Flasher Unit---Beeps10. Fronk Forks---Plunk11. Fuel pumps---WHIRR12. Gears---WHINE13. Head Gasket---HISS14. Hydraulic Lifters---TAP15. Instrument Clusters---BUZZING16. Kick Starter---GRINDS17. Pistons---SLAP18. Power Valves---CLINK---RATTLE19. Radiators---GURGLE20. Rear Chains---RATTLE21. Rear Shocks---SQUEAK22. Relays---CLICK---BUZZ23. Rods Go---KNOCK-KNOCK24. Shaft Drives---WHIRR25. Shifting Trans---CLUNK26. Solid Lifters---TICK27. Speedometers---bzzz28. Starters---CLICK29. Starter Clutch---GRIND---WHIRR30. Warning Lights---BEEPFor more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.https://www.harley-davidsonforums.com/threads/engine-noise-2005-fatboy.24194http://www.mediafire.com/file/65o6mbkdq5ty8ke/99_to_05_Harley_Softail_Service_Manual.pdf/filehttps://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmchttps://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally
Hi, Tmautino before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries. All voltage readings will be on the DC scale except for Stator Output which will be AC you will need a multi-meter to conduct the following tests. "WARNING" never plug or unplug any electrical connector in the charging system with the engine running!
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. Check the voltage drop at the battery when you hit the starter button, anything below 9.6 volts you might have a faulty battery.
3. Make sure your voltage regulator is properly grounded with a clean tight connection, then check voltage at the battery with the bike running between 2000-3600 RPM, depending on your system specs, your readings should be 14.3 to 14.7 volts. If you are not getting these numbers or the reading is 15 volts or higher replace the voltage regulator.
4. Faulty regulator diodes can allow excessive amounts of voltage to go back to the battery causing it to overheat, boil its contents and swell the casing. The excessive voltage will also spike the charging system allowing light bulbs to surge brighter than normal until they fail along with the main circuit breaker.
5. Unplug the connector to the alternator and hook your multimeter leads to the alternator (pin/socket selection does not matter) set the multimeter to AC volts, at an idle the multimeter should read 16 to 20 volts AC. at 2,000 RPM 32 to 40 AC volts, 3,000 RPM 48 to 60 AC volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you may have a faulty alternator rotor.
6. Set the multimeter to OHM'S, connect one lead to the alternator (any pin/socket) and the other to the ground, the multimeter should read infinity. Connect both leads to the alternator multimeter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms. If you are not getting these numbers, you have a bad stator.
7. Check all wiring in the charging circuit for worn or chaffed spots and all wiring connectors in the circuit for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets, which is the # 1 offender.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WpzLngaSJNQhttp://www.mediafire.com/file/nn2n0s00nhnc90c/2004+Harley+Touring+Service+Manual.pdfhttps://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmchttps://ownersmanuals2.com/harley-davidson/road-king-custom-2005-owners-manual-66429https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally
Hi, Kengrr the following is a systematic procedure for diagnosing fuel pump issues designed to keep "DRACHMA" to a minimum:
1. Normal fuel pump pressure is 55-62 PSI.
2. Check the white plastic convoluted tubing for age-related pinholes by removing and plugging the end that connects to the quick disconnect check valve and then turn on the ignition switch and look for fuel streams exiting the pinholes, if any exist, replace tubing as necessary. $38 from Harley $20 from eBay.
3. Check for a clogged a primary fuel filter that comes off the bottom of the pump to screen out big rocks and clean as necessary.
4. Check for a clogged secondary fuel filter by removing it from the system and replace it with a short splicing tube turn on the ignition switch and recheck fuel pressure if pressure increases to the normal pressure you need a new filter $ 166 from Harley $40 from Drag Specialties on eBay.
5. If all the above check out OK then you need a new fuel pump $ 324 from Harley $ 60 from Amazon and eBay.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.v-twinforum.com/threads/fuel-pump-problem.162773/http://www.mediafire.com/file/65o6mbkdq5ty8ke/99_to_05_Harley_Softail_Service_Manual.pdf/filehttps://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmchttps://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally
Hi, Debbie if your headlight is not working, intermittent, only one beam works at a time, keeps burning out, blinking, dim or surges from bright to dim to bright the first thing you need to check is the headlight bulb for damaged filaments then check your light circuit fuse, then check your headlight bulb socket ground wire for a clean tight connection, that being said the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty ground or power supply wire to the headlight bulb socket.
2. Worn down solder contacts or loose fit of the bulb base in the socket due to vibration.
3. Worn, chafed, or broken wires in the light circuit.
4. Corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets in wire connectors.
5. Faulty hi/low beam switch.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Fuse is good but no continuity on both sides.
8. Faulty headlight relay.
9. Faulty wiring between battery positive and headlight bulb socket.
10. Weak charging alternator/generator/lighting coil
11. Faulty voltage regulator/rectifier ground or overcharging.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.harley-davidsonforums.com/threads/headlight-went-out.31378/http://www.mediafire.com/file/65o6mbkdq5ty8ke/99_to_05_Harley_Softail_Service_Manual.pdf/filehttps://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmchttps://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally
To remove lift rear tire slightly off the ground then remove the shock attaching bolt and washer with a special Snap-On adapter PN SRES24 and then remove the flange locknut and washer with grommet at the front of the shock. To reinstall put the washer and grommet inside the frame and put the bushing over the stud end of the shock and put the stud end through the keyed frame tube and loosely install the flange locknut. THEN coat the shoulder of the shock bolt (1) with ANTI-SEIZE compound and the bolt threads with blue loctite and insert the bolt and washer through the shock end and pivot the shock to align the bolt and the hole in the rear fork. Then tighten the shock bolt with the Snap-on adapter and since the adapter is not going to be at 90 degrees to the torque wrench it will lengthen the torque wrench and therefore the torque value must be computed with a torque computer such as the Snap-On PN SS-306G.Tighten the bolt and washer at the rear to 115-130 ft-lbs (155.9-176.2 Nm) and tighten the flange locknutto 32-39 ft-lbs (43.4-52.9 Nm). Then adjust the shocks equally with a special shock adjustment spanner. To adjust the shocks loosen the locknuts and turn the adjuster plates OUT towards the locknut to increase the spring preload for a heavier load or IN away from the locknut to decrease the spring preload for a lighter load. You should MARK the adjuster plates before you begin so you can know when you have equally adjusted both shocks to the same position.
