Top 20 2000 Harley Davidson XL 1200 C Sportster Custom Questions & Answers

You will need a complete wiring diagram,or buying a "complete wiring kit Thunder Heart " on Ebay !

Sounds like you crank ventilation is obstructed

I don't know an answer for you except that you try googling it and/or see if you can find anyone dealing with lehman or that used to deal with lehman. I am posting this now as I have seen your question hanging around unanswered for too long a time period that it does not appear you are going to get a better answer by waiting longer.

Sorry I do not go back to 1990 but if you go to a Harley parts person they cna likley print you off such.

It is designed to do that with the enrichener on even a small amount.

carb float is stuck open causing carb to flood

You will have to get a manual to get the specs and the procedure.

Sorry do not have parts manuals for these years. Ask this question of a Harley parts department person who will have such access

First thing I would do is check and make sure the battery has a good charge. If it is fully charged, I would check fuses and relays. Then I would want to check to the make sure the engine turns over by removing the spark plugs and put the bike in high gear and see if you can coast it (i.e. down a hill, have some one push you while on it) if on a jack so the rear wheel is up in the air, you can rotate it by hand. If all that checks out, I would want to pull the starter and do a bench test on it.

I was unaware that the 2000 Harley Davidson XL required a Password to Operate..... I have worked on a few of these and I have NEVER needed a password to do anything with them

Possibly, first remove clutch cable or drain hydraulic system I do not know what clutch activating system you have. For cable system after removing cable bend in a loop with about 6" of each end crossing. grip lightly between thumb and finger of one hand. See if the inner cable can be easily moved use only light pressure. If it doesn't move easily try getting as much oil down the cable as possible. Repeat looping and testing and lubing until inner cable moves freely. Replace on bike make sure you adjust correctly and have enough free play also grease the lever fixing point and grease the adjuster. If this fails you need a new cable, make sure you lube it well before fitting. For Hydraulic system make sure the lever is working properly and put a small amount of brake fluid in the master cylinder make sure the fluid moves when the lever is squeezed. Check the clutch end of the mechanism for leaks and wear. Refill master cylinder and bleed the system you need to grease the lever pivot. If this fails I am afraid its dealer/workshop/service center time.

Fuel pump? It might not have enough flow.

primary or secondary belts

Slide the rubber cover off the cable adjuster. Then holding cable adjuster with 1/2 inch wrench, loosen the jam nut using a 9/16 inch wrench and back the jam nut away from the cable adjuster and then move the adjuster toward jam nut to introduce a large amount of free play at hand lever. THEN remove the locknut and bolt to free the left side footrest from the footrest support and then remove the footrest and spring washer and THEN using a T-27 TORX driver, remove the four TORX screws with washers to remove clutch inspection cover exercising caution to avoid damaging or dislodging the quad ring in the primary cover. THEN slide the spring with the attached hex lockplate from the flats of the adjusting screw. THEN turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise until resistance is felt THEN back off the adjusting screw 1/4 turn. THEN slide spring with hex lockplate onto the flats of the adjusting screw and if necessary, turn adjusting screw clockwise just slightly so that the lockplate slides onto the flats while also fitting within recess of the outer ramp. Replace the quad ring if it is very old, deteriorated or etc. and verify that quad ring is fully seated in the groove of the primary cover and a few well spaced drops of instant contact cement can be used to hold it in place. Using the T-27 TORX driver, install the TORX screws and washers to secure the clutch inspection cover in place and tighten the screws in a crosswise pattern to 84-108 in-lbs (9-12 Nm). THEN turn the cable adjuster clockwise away from the jam nut until all of the slack is eliminated. THEN pull the clutch cable ferrule at the hand control end of the clutch cable at the hand control lever bracket away from the clutch hand lever bracket to check the free play. You need to obtain 1/16 to 1/8 inch free play between the end of the cable ferrule and the clutch hand lever bracket i.e. while you are pulling the cable away from the clutch lever mechanism bracket there should be a space or freeplay of 1/16 to 1/8 inch or in other words if you can pull the clutch cable away from the clutch lever bracket that much you have the correct lever freeplay, so turn the cable adjuster as necessary to get this amount of freeplay between the end of the clutch cable and the clutch lever bracket on the handlebars. After you have adjusted the cable so that you have this freeplay then hold the adjuster with a 1/2 inch wrench and using a 9/16 inch wrench, tighten jam nut against cable adjuster and then pull the rubber cable adjuster cover over the cable adjuster mechanism. THEN place the spring washer over the lower inside hole of the left footrest support with the concave side of the spring washer facing the support flange. THEN align the holes in the footrest with the threaded holes in the support and spring washer and install the bolt and Locknut and tighten the locknut to 96-192 in-lbs (11-22 Nm).

Best to check fr that information with an H-D parts department.

Spark plug is likely no good. Also check the HT wires. It is not likely the coil if it works when hot BUT you could have a poor/corroded primary ignition connection that breaks when cold and makes when warm or hot. Check all of these things. You could also have a very bad, cracked or etc intake deal to that cylinder and you could check it by spraying some water on the seal area at the head and see if there is any change, OR very carefully and only of you have the expertise to do so carefully and appropriately etc, some propane gas in the same area. It is likely not a fuel/air problem though, most likely a poor, even if god looking and properly gapped, spark plug.

Probably winding's, commutator or brushes are at fault. First though use a multi-meter and check the power feed bolt/stud is not shorting to the starter case. If you can get the starter off see if it will power up off the bike. Get the starter stripped down check all the armature winding's for damage, burning etc. Check the brushes are not worn down excessively, finally check the commutator this is where the most wear takes place. Each metal strip has a wire from the armature connected to it check this is so. Each metal strip should be insulated from its neighbor check this as well. Finally check each gap between the metal strips these should be free of any dirt, metal particles, carbon etc. Finally check the bearings for smooth rotation any play found can upset the working of a starter. Grease the bearings if you find they are dry or sticking. If you cannot see any reason for the failure I would suggest getting the starter tested and refurbished as necessary. Good luck.

If the enrichener is still on somewhat it is intended to do this. If not you likely have an intake air leak downstream of the carb. With it running spray wd40 or water, (HARLEY also have a proposal to do so with the use of propane like from a small unlit propane torch but you would need to have the expertise to do this and still be very careful with it) all around the induction system and carb mounting seals and if the rpm changes you have found a leak. It will idle higher than normal as the extra air entering downstream of the venturi leans out the air/fuel ratio.

It would seem to be a wiring related problem. Check all wires around the speedo and where they go around the head stock. Also, check for poor earth connections.

I would first check the front cylinder spark plug is showing the correct color. When it next shuts down remove the plug and see if you have a spark. Spark or no spark I would replace first the spark plug then if the problem still occurs change the plug cap. Finally if it still shuts down change the HT cable and or the coil and HT cable. It is possible that the problem is further back in the ignition system and some component is breaking down when it or the surrounding area gets hot. If it is not the plug/cap/HT lead or coil at fault then I would get an electrician to look at the bikes electrical circuit and fault find it. This is going to be costly though. Good luck. Just had another thought could possibly be the ignition switch. Try spraying some lube into the switch barrel do not use WD40 as it is water based and while it does shift water, stop squeaks, etc etc. It does allow corrosion to reform.