20 Most Recent 2009 Harley Davidson FXDB Dyna Street Bob Questions & Answers

Hi, Stephen for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs -fluid capacities and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Harley, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touring-models/325839-rear-cylinder-shut-down-on-09-s.htmlhttp://www.mediafire.com/file/y8au34oc778d7oc/2009_Harley_Dyna_Service_Manual.pdf/filehttps://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmchttps://ownersmanuals2.com/harley-davidson/street-bob-2009-owners-manual-66580https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally

Dead battery or loose connection

If the battery cables were not thoroughly clean they might offer enough resistance to prevent the starter from spinning. That happened to me. I was on the road far from home. I had lights but it won't spin the starter. In fact it was so bad, the lights went off when I hit the starter. I pulled the seat, removed the cables, scraped them clean with my jackknife, replaced the battery cables and it started right up. Before you tear into it, double check the kill switch on the right handle grip. next to the start button there is a run switch. Be sure that is pushed down to the run position.

You have to remove the seat to access the battery. There is a bolt at the rear of the seat, remove it and pull the seat toward the rear while lifting. Disconnect the negative cable first, then the positive. Wrap one with a rag so it can't bend back and touch the battery. There are two bolts at the rear of the battery case. A lower and an upper. Remove those and the battery case will drop down giving you clearance to pull the battery out. I got ten years from the factory battery that came with my 2000 FXDWG so I have faith in the factory batteries. But note that I keep a battery tender on mine all the time. Summer and winter, my battery tender is plugged in. I use a "cigar lighter" type socket that I wired to the battery. So it is easy on and off. To replace the battery, put it in the case, lift the battery case up and install the two bolts at the rear of the case. Connect the positive cable first and then the negative. Try starting it before you replace the seat. It if starts and everything works. Shut it off, install the seat making sure you the front of the seat catches the retaining bracket. Lift up on the front of the seat. If it stays tight, you are ready to ride.

Change the spark plugs. If it still happens, it sounds as if you are not getting spark once the ignition heats up. That will mean replacing the defective ignition parts. I sure hope the spark plugs fix it. Use loctite anti seize on the threads and torque the plugs to 15 lbs.

The coil went bad.

Man when testing a fuel pump only ever do this with the pump submerged . other wise a spark from the motors brushes and you could have a explosion. There has to be voltage at the pump fuse with the ignition on , only for a short time as the computer will shut it down if the engine does not start. as a safety measure . also check the pump relay.

Check the fuel pressure and flow ,if the flow is down replace the fuel filter. Then check for injector pulse , by back probing the injector wiring with a led test light while cranking. If the pressure is down check the fuel regulator is not stuck open.

Pull any error codes: 1- Turn Ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run. 2- Push odometer reset button in & hold. 3- Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button. Background lighting sould illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word "diag" should then appear. 4 - Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPt" with the first P flashing. 5 - Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t and back to P, etc.) P = ECM/ICM (Electronic Control Module (EFI) / (Ignition Control Module, 'Carbureted') S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module) SP = speedometer T = tachometer 6 - To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC's the code will be displayed or the word "none" will appear if there are no DTC's. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist. 7 - Record the codes. Once you have any error codes, repost them. A few examples of what some codes are: B1004 B1134 P0118 P0605 These do not necessarily, are the codes you'll get, but rather just an example of what the format the codes are displayed as.

That's normal. You shouldn't be in that high of a gear at that speed. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_5bac37c3cb991fdb

Usually indicates there is a wire shorting on the lighting circuit somewhere.check all existing wiring for chaffing or water getting into the electricsHope Thgis Helps

could be bad key switch

I would as well. I have never seen a troubleshooting guide for electrical wiring on a Harley. I've got a shematic for a Softail but no trouble shooting guides. What are you having problems with? Maybe I can help.

Steve

I would go to a dealer and get the right battery from them, they aren't that much more then a generic battery and you will be sure to get the proper one