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its really a Chevy S10, the only Japan part is the name sticker. so what engines there? hydraulic clutch is auto-dusting after all air is bleed out of the system
diagnosing clutch can be bit tricky but here are those tricks (blew many up racing) the slave has a rod to a lever, if bleed ok, can be hard, as the tubes go vertical like a motorcycle or aircraft bleeding is hard. (on all) (bubbles float up as you force them down, dang a pain) (reverse brake bleed kit a godsend)
once done bled, i check the slave stroke distance. its about 1 inch stoke,(2 men test) no slack there, due to the hydraulic auto adjust. see slack yell load, air in lines. or rod fit wrong. so it moves about 1 full inch on the outer fork tip PEDAL to the floor, if yes and clutch drags, the clutch is bad.
one acid test of clutch is REVERSE, it's a NON Syncrho mesh gear, a real gear. and fussy, (nice for testing, I learned long ago) and will grind at the first bit, of clutch drag. its like the coal miners canary bird, help me...
I love clutches, learned to drive in 15speed dump truck. it had crash boxes... 5x3 double clutching all gears.all day long.
Either the clutch needs replacing or the cable needs adjusting.
First thing is to try and adjust it if possible.
Get someone to press and release the clutch pedal while you are looking in the engine compartment and see if you can locate the actuation mechanism. You should see the clutch lever being moved back and forth. Once located and you see which way everything moves, get the person to stop pressing the pedal. On the cable that moves the lever should be 2 nuts (one of which is a locking nut that prevents the the one nearest the lever from moving). Loose of the locking nut off and start tightening the other one up. The person in the car may see the pedal start rising up. Tighten up and try the clutch again. Keep adjusting until it feels okay whilst driving. Finally tighten the lock nut down to the adjusting nut to prevent it from loosening off over time. If there is not enough adjustment possible it may require a new cable.
first of all it takes clutch fluid or dot 3 brake fluid the resivoir is usually located on driver side under hood on fire wall should be up high & close to brake fluid resvoir it will be round & small after filling pump pedal up& down quickly until you get pressure then have someone else open bleeder valve down on side of bell housing while holding pedal down closing it back & repeat until pedal has good feel if this doesnt work then one or the other is bad the master cylinder or slave cylinder is bad & needs replacing good luck with this info
have you replaced your fly wheel and release bearing when you changed your clutch disc?
if yes, then replace your transmission fluid.
also, if you know hot to adjust your clutch release, adjust it. adjust it in a way that you need to draw back your clutch pedal a little higher for the clutch to complete engage.
here are some ways to adjust your clutch.
1. for clutch using clutch cable. open your hood, locate for the transmision, and there you can see a cable that connects the transmision and the clutch pedal. loosen in up a little.
2. for hydrovac clutch with self correcting features. just pull your clutch pedal away from the floor for a few seconds and its done.
3. for hyrovac without self correction. manually adjust the push rod (metal rod that connects the clutch pedal to the clutch master)
You could have a fluid reservoir for the clutch. This should be located somewhere under the hood. Make sure is has plenty of fluid in it. If not, fill it to the full line.
This is likely just a temporary fix. If you are losing fluid, something else is probably going wrong.
Clutch may be smooth but this is a sign of the clutch needing replaced. Some of these models have a linkage adjustment under the hood. Others are hydrallic and need fluid. Look under the hood where the steering is and see which you have and address accordingly. Good luck. Check on costs of clutch replacement.
If the clutch in your car is hydralic there is no way to adjust that type of clutch. That you describe the clutch as being hard to push and that you have to have the clutch "right down on the floor to engage a gear" is an indication that the clutch is worn and needs to be replaced. If the clutch in your car is pushed by a cable, the cable might be adjustable and if that is the case you might get a few more months of use from the car, but the fix is still the same, you will need to get a new clutch put in your car.
If you have a hydraulic clutch, it is conceivable that the fluid has leaked out. For areas of leakage check up under the dash where the clutch master comes through the firewall., or check down at the transmission at the clutch slave, which is the small cylinder on the transmission. You should also fill the reservoir immediately as well. If yours is the adjustable type of clutch, then you need to have it ajusted immediately If you would like to contact me again about this or other problems, feel free to do so. Bill ASE Master Technician
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