Saturn 2001 sl slamming into reverse and hard into drive, from drive to reverse it hits smoothly. after turning off and restarting, no power from battery and no start. 5 days ago it was NOT hitting reverse at ALL and was starting very hard.
Ms Derry ,I would check the pair of shift cables and shifter itself before suspecting internal transmission problems.The cables attach to the shifter then runs to the linkage on the transmission.One cable is responsible for side to side movement as the other is for moving front to back(like 1st to second) Center console removal is fairly simple which requires mounting screw(4) removal on the front sides and in the rear cup holder.This gives you an opportunity to view the shifter and cable operation from above while this movement should also be appreciated at the transmission linkage meaning someone shifts the vehicle as another inspects proper movement at the transmission.If all this is actuating properly,you may need to tear down and inspect transmission but hopefully it can be rectified with external repairs mentioned...good luck
It is a chain and its not the easiest but it could be worse.It is as follows: 1.9L SOHC Engine
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
Drain the engine oil.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Negative battery cable
Right front wheel and splash shield
NOTE: Place a 1 in. x 1 in. x 2 in. long block of wood between the torque strut and cradle to ease removal and installation of the torque engine mount.
3 right side upper engine torque axis to front cover nuts and the 2 mount to midrail bracket nuts, allowing the powertrain to rest on the block of wood
Drive belt, tensioner and pulley
Power steering pump attaching bolts and set the pump to the side with the lines still attached
A/C compressor from the bracket and set aside with the lines attached
Camshaft cover
Using a strap wrench or a piece of wood wedged between the damper spoke and the lower side of the engine front cover, hold the damper and remove the bolt. With a suitable 3-jaw puller and the slots cast into the damper, pull the crankshaft damper/pulley assembly from the crankshaft.
Install the special oil seal replacement tool SA9104E, to be sure the front crankshaft timing sprocket is held firmly in place and prevent guide damage. Install with the flat side towards the crankshaft sprocket.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Front 4 oil pan bolts and cut the seal away from the front cover
Front cover bolts and carefully pry the cover away from the cylinder block at the pry location tabs, which are provided. Remove the cover from under the hood or through the wheel well
Front cover oil seal from the cover
NOTE: During timing chain and sprocket removal, position the crankshaft 90 degrees past Top Dead Center (TDC), to be sure the pistons will not contact the valves upon assembly.
Carefully rotate the crankshaft clockwise so the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket and keyway align with the main bearing cap split line (90 degrees past TDC).
Remove or disconnect the following:
Timing guides and tensioner
Camshaft sprocket bolt, using a 7⁄8 in. (21mm) wrench to hold the camshaft. Then, remove the timing chain and camshaft sprocket
Crankshaft sprocket
To install:
Inspect the chain for wear and damage. Check the inside diameter of the chain, it should be no more than 16.77 in. (426mm). Inspect the chain guides for wear or cracks and the timing sprockets for teeth or key wear. Replace components as necessary.
Verify that the crankshaft keyway is positioned 90 degrees clockwise past TDC (keyway at 3 o'clock). The keyway should align with the split between the bearing cap and engine block.
Bring the camshaft up to No. 1 TDC by loosely installing the sprocket and rotating the sprocket until the timing pin can be inserted. The camshaft contains wrench flats to assist in turning the shaft. The dowel pin should be at 12 o'clock when the camshaft is at TDC.
Install the crankshaft sprocket, then rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise 90 degrees up to No. 1 TDC (keyway at 12 o'clock).
Position the chain under the crankshaft sprocket and over the camshaft sprocket. The timing chain should be positioned so that 1 silver link plate aligns with the reference mark on the camshaft sprocket and the other aligns with the downward tooth (at the 6 o'clock position) on the crankshaft sprocket. The letters FRT on the camshaft sprocket must face forward, away from the cylinder head and excess chain slack should be located on the tensioner side of the block.
Install or connect the following:
Timing pin to verify proper alignment of the camshaft and sprocket. Torque the sprocket bolt to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
NOTE: Do not allow the camshaft retaining bolt to torque against the timing pin or cylinder head damage will result.
Timing chain guides with the words FRONT facing out. Install the fixed guide first and verify the chain is snug against the guide, then install the pivot guide. Torque the bolts to 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm) and verify that the pivot guide moves freely
Retract the tensioner plunger and pin the ratchet lever using a 1⁄8 in. No. 31 drill bit inserted in the alignment hole at the bottom front of the component
Tensioner. Torque the bolts to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm), then remove the drill bit
Make one final check to verify all components are properly timed, then remove all timing pins.
Install or connect the following:
Seat a new front cover oil seal using the installation tool with a press
If the engine front cover casting or assembly is replaced, the 3 torque axis mount studs should also be replaced. Torque the new studs to 19 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
drain the engine oil.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Negative battery cable
Right front wheel and splash shield
NOTE: Place a 1 x 1 x 2 in. (25 x 25 x 51mm) block of wood between the torque strut and cradle to ease removal and installation of the torque engine mount.
3 right side upper engine torque axis to front cover nuts and the 2 mount to midrail bracket nuts, allowing the powertrain to rest on the block of wood
Drive belt, tensioner and pulley
Power steering pump attaching bolts and set the pump to the side with the lines still attached
A/C compressor from the bracket and set it to the side with the lines attached
Camshaft cover
Using a strap wrench or a piece of wood wedged between the damper spoke and the lower side of the engine front cover, hold the damper and remove the bolt. With a suitable 3-jaw puller and the slots cast into the damper, pull the crankshaft damper/pulley assembly from the crankshaft.
Install the special oil seal replacement tool SA9104E or equivalent, to be sure the front crankshaft timing sprocket is held firmly in place and prevent guide damage. Install with the flat side towards the crankshaft sprocket.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Front 4 oil pan bolts and cut the seal away from the front cover
Front cover bolts and carefully pry the cover away from the cylinder block at the pry location tabs, which are provided. Remove the cover from under the hood or through the wheel well
Front cover oil seal from the cover
NOTE: During timing chain and sprocket removal, position the crankshaft 90 degrees past top Dead Center (TDC), to be sure the pistons will not contact the valves upon assembly.
Carefully rotate the crankshaft clockwise so the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket and keyway align with the main bearing cap split line (90 degrees past TDC).
Timing guides and tensioner
Camshaft sprocket bolt, using a 7⁄8 in. (21mm) wrench to hold the camshaft. Then, remove the timing chain and camshaft sprocket
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Check u-joints and cv-joints. When they wear out it can cause play in the drivetrain, causing a 'clunk' when you put the car in reverse (and usually from reverse to drive). But, it sounds likely that this is what's causing your problem.
2001 Saturn SL1. Transmission (automatic) shifts hard when putting it in gear and every gear there after. The only codes I get is PO442 and PO410. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
These cars have a reverse slam problem usually....If you have no reverse , you may be looking at a new transmission. You can try cleaning the trans out with transmission sea foam. Put a new filter and fluid in the trans along with a can of sea foam. Set the parking brake, put the car in reverse for 30 min. If that doesnt do it, It may be a solenoid. Not too hard to get to on these.
Check the air mass sensor, clean it with carb cleaner and then refit if you need info on how to do this let me know. the clunk into gear is only because the car is stalling most likely.
Sounds like this is an automatic s-series. Sounds like you previously had a reverse slam in the car. Meaning when you put it in reverse it would delay then slam. As this gets worse it begins to untorque what is known as the input shaft nut. Eventually this nut will get so loose that you lose reverse completely.
The transmission itself is fine and does not need replacement. $1,600-$2,200 is probably not even what the car is worth. The valve body needs to be changed out with a rebuilt one and the input shaft nut needs to be replaced and torqued down properly. Both of these are easily done by any backyard mechanic. Roughly 3 hours will have your transmission shifting like new.
I rebuild Saturn valve bodies (check my ad for more information) and provide instructions on how to do the repair. It costs much less than what any shop will tell you and they'll tell you the transmission is toast...IT IS NOT!
I think what you were saying is your reverse slams, and only when you give it gas.
You can try to do the reverse slam fix, which is easy to do: Reverse slam fix
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